Reseating Mach II compressor wires

[Barkerd]

Guys,

Please help if you can with some wiring advise ... the decription below is based on me looking at the inside of the Mach II base with the front cover on my left and the back panel on my right.

I am trying to help a mate with his newly aquired Mach II with two wires that have come loose. On the top of the ChipCon control board immediately behind the power socket is a white connector block where four wires should connect upwards at a 45degree angle to the block (blue brown blue brown). This is how it is on my GT so this should be same, however, the second blue and brown are hanging loose

I cannot see how to get the wires into the block since it is really fiddly in there, it looks like just slots for the wires and two smaller empty slots just above where the each wire goes, and there is also a black smartie tube looking thing in the way of it connected to the compressor. This black tube is on a bracket I do not know how to disconnect either. Any ideas on how I connect up the wires and maybe move the black smartie tube thing out the way so I can get near the white connector block?

 

[Barkerd]

Progress ...

Ok now managed to move the black smartie looking tube (technical terminology) out the way and can clearly access the white connector block but need help on how to connect the blue and brown wires into this block?

 

[fatty]

mate the two little slots above the two holes you actually push down on the slots and it opens the holes below they are a clamp like device. The best way to refit the wires is to remove the board lay it flat and push down on the slot and put the wires in to take the board out you need to remove the rear fan

 

[Barkerd]

What tools do I need

mate the two little slots above the two holes you actually push down on the slots and it opens the holes below they are a clamp like device. The best way to refit the wires is to remove the board lay it flat and push down on the slot and put the wires in to take the board out you need to remove the rear fan

I did try and push down on both slots in situ with some fine tweezers but without success - what tools would you recommend to remove the board and push down on the slots, and also which slot above the wire aperture do I attack?

Thanks

 

[Firelord]

Either a network push down tool or a small screw driver

 

[standin wave]

Dave = any chance of a couple of photos to show all what u mean?

sw

 

[Phil Stanbridge]

Dave (sorry I didnt reply to your PM's!).

Was this unit like this when you bought it? Its highly likely that these wires have dis-lodged in transit. Its not the first time I've seen something like this happen although I have to say I've never seen these wires break free, its normally the fans.

 

[fatty]

I would just use a small screw driver in the slots the board itself will just pull out off the fixing pins

 

[Barkerd]

Ok to make things a little clearer, see the white block with the blue and brown wires connected and the two loose blue and brown wires on the right that should be in the block blue brown blue brown ... these are the wires I need help connecting as there is very little space and I dont want to damage anything trying - thanks

No worries on the follow-up Phil I guessed you must be busy after ur hols

 

[fatty]

Do it the way I said mate take your rear fan out then pull the board out its the easiest way to do itthe brown blue and earth wires are only spade connectors and will just pull off

 

[Barkerd]

Do it the way I said mate take your rear fan out then pull the board out its the easiest way to do itthe brown blue and earth wires are only spade connectors and will just pull off

Is there a special screwdriver to remove the Chip-Con board - there's at least 6 small screws holding the baord onto the stand-offs but the location of the screws and confines of the compartment mean that a normal small screwdriver will not be able to make contact - do I have to move something else out of the way like the compressor?

 

[fatty]

It isnt screwed on they are push fits unless somone has modified the mounting just pull the board off

 

[standin wave]

Yeah m8, that little cross shaped thing in the top rhs of the control board is the stand-off for the board. They'll just pop off - just use yer hands to push from the back (non-component side) then you wont risk scraping a metal tool all over the place and damaging tracking etc. fyi, the bits on that side are @ top a fuseholder and voltage selector, on the right a relay clear plazzie and flip I've forgotten what the blue thing was. The piccie doesn't make you realise how fiddly it is to get in there!

sw

 

[Barkerd]

Thanks gents Will have a go shortly and let you know ...

 

[Barkerd]

Thanks

Compressor has started and the LCD has counted down into the negative so it's playtime - thanks for all your help guys

 

[standin wave]

Excellent news m8. Glad its sprung into life. I've been searching all over the damned place for pictures of how everything inside a mach II goes together, but it don't exist - why don't the folks here do it?

sw

 

[standin wave]

The 'blue thing' is a Dantrafo Horsens DT2010062 Mains to 9V transformer and its about £8 !

sw

 

[Barkerd]

Excellent news m8. Glad its sprung into life. I've been searching all over the damned place for pictures of how everything inside a mach II goes together, but it don't exist - why don't the folks here do it?

sw

How are you finding out this stuff - by reading from the part and then doing a google search? You are practically half through documenting it yourself - did I hear someone volunteering

 

[standin wave]

I pretty much did do b4 I sold it 2 u - I'll post rest this aft

sw

 

[standin wave]

Other parts of note

PIC18F252 is an 8 bit microcontroller, around £5 - this 'runs' the show - but is prob. security protected to stop you raiding the contents

PDIUSBD11D is a USB device with serial interface (now superceded by D12D version) around £1.50

LH1540 is a single pole single throw (SPST) switch around £1.80

L7805CV is a 1.5 amp 5V regulator

Schrack RP479012 is an 8 amp 250V relay ~ £3

HEF4051 is a single 8 channel analog mux-demux chip ~ 25p

74HC595 is 8 stage serial shift register with tri-state outputs ~ 25p

I never got around to doing a schematic of how it all went together, but it wasn't very complicated.

I know some folks wanted a higher rated (current) fan capability - I could have a look what is limiting that if someone could loan me a (knackered) control board and then I could suggest a higher rated part - any takers?

sw