It has to be sanded and painted atm fella.
Rescue 1
- Thread starter sfelock
- Start date
It has to be sanded and painted atm fella.
sfelock
New member
Oh no, sorry. I meant I don't want a mess up again. I've sanded it down a fair bit. Going to work a bit more on it, then prime and base coat it. But before I reshoot the blue I'll render it in sketchup and check to see how the vents will look.
sfelock
New member
I went to the hardware store last night and got more paint and "good" tape. I'm hoping that Frogtape is everything they claim it is. As for making it wide, I have already sanded it down to almost bare metal. I intend to make the stripe a hair wider to help cover anything I may have missed and because after I sprayed it I was unhappy with how thin it looked on the panel.
Craigferrie
New member
Tried a little acrylic bending for the SSD mount.
Also repainted the other drive mounts because I hated the original blue I painted them.
need to turn down the heat on the heat gun buddy.
i can see the plastic is burning and wrinkling.
sfelock
New member
Yea, I noticed that. This most certainly isn't the finished product. I actually bent this using a lighter (insert gasping appalling comments here). I don't own a heat gun and the Mrs. Blow dryer apparently broke. But I didn't do half bad for what I had and I now have a template for the actual piece.
This was a scrap piece from a prior project, it's scratched beyond belief...definitely not comp worthy.
sfelock
New member
Dude I debated at the paint store for 15 mins on this color and I am beyond pleased with how it turned out!
sfelock
New member
Also have you got any tips for getting the edges to comply with the rest of the bend? It seems the ripple was caused by the edges not bending with the rest of the sheet. I tried to heat them up a little more but that didn't help.
Wraith
Bettyswollocks
Slow uniform heating is the key to bending Acrylic, go to fast and it warps and spreads out on the curve.
AlienALX
Well-known member
When I bend plastic I use a work bench. That way you know the edge is going to be straight. Take your time, because if it's not heated evenly then it will ripple.
I set mine up like this.
Then heat for a while.
Then bend. Now I usually wear oven gloves when doing this.
The big trick (and to prevent ripples) is to keep pressure on the bend until it has cooled down. Then, when it's starting to set take a damp cloth (damp with cold water) and apply even pressure to get it cooled down and set properly.
I used this method loads when I built X8 Hackintosh last year.
Craigferrie
New member
as wraith said, slow heating is the best way.
you can pick up heat guns for as little as $20 online, they usually come with a nozzle that looks like a vacuum cleaner end (long) that's the magic one you need.
of course there are other methods, but a heat gun will always win.
for best results:
1. Clamp your acrylic to a solid bench
2. heat slowly while gently pushing down on the acrylic that's off the end of the bench
3. once you get your angle, pull lightly on the end and hold until it cools down.
Other ways include making your angle out of wood and bend the acrylic over it. using the heatgun.
sfelock
New member
Spent most of today and a lot of time earlier in the week taping, retaping, and realigning the stripes on the back. Finally I am happy with it and just waiting for the kiddos to go to bed so I can spray a few coats and peel the tape before it sets and I replay my earlier mistake.
Dont spray over mesh!!!!!!!
Also thats not the right masking tape for lines
Also thats not the right masking tape for lines
sfelock
New member
Ah, so I should just tape off the mesh all together?
And what's up with the tape? Does it bleed?
Wraith
Bettyswollocks
Didn't you get some frog tape? Some modders use electrical tape for line marking as it has better adhesion.
EDIT: When I mask and paint I usually leave it for the 15 - 20 minutes for the touch dry to be ready, then give it 15 minutes more before removing the masking ensuring to always pull the tape back along itself rather than tying to lift it which risks lifting the paint edge.
EDIT: When I mask and paint I usually leave it for the 15 - 20 minutes for the touch dry to be ready, then give it 15 minutes more before removing the masking ensuring to always pull the tape back along itself rather than tying to lift it which risks lifting the paint edge.
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sfelock
New member
Didn't know that. But yea, the frog tape I got was large, too large for the chevrons.
Only issue with too much adhesion is my concerns that it may peel the undercoat up as well.
