Projekt Suma Kuhl 2013
- Thread starter JayCobs
- Start date
alpenwasser
New member
Nice, my man, really nice! HELIOS will actually have its PSU pretty much in the same
location, although with a different mounting system. Aside from that, my radiator layout
is also pretty damn similar. I suppose there are only so many possibilities for arranging
small boxes in a larger box in a neat and tidy fashion.
location, although with a different mounting system. Aside from that, my radiator layout
is also pretty damn similar. I suppose there are only so many possibilities for arranging
small boxes in a larger box in a neat and tidy fashion.
The Orange One
New member
Nice Mate!!!
Great work!
Great work!
JayCobs
New member
I don't even think it looks that bad having a random fitting from rad>GPU... It breaks it up nicely and subtle.
Great colour scheme too!
Thanks! It's starting to grow on me now.^_^
Nice, my man, really nice! HELIOS will actually have its PSU pretty much in the same
location, although with a different mounting system. Aside from that, my radiator layout
is also pretty damn similar. I suppose there are only so many possibilities for arranging
small boxes in a larger box in a neat and tidy fashion.
I'm anxious to see your PSU mount.
I appreciate your visit.
JayCobs
New member
Adventures in acrylic 3
CATOSTROPHE PENDING...:huh:
Tuesday night I was putting thumb screws in to secure my MoBo tray. For some reason later realized the holes I drilled weren't lining up. As I twisted the case to line the holes up one of my connections began to leak on my GPU. Luckily I was able to cut the power before the coolant did it for me.
[the later realized...]
With all the mods I've done to the 800D it's rigidity has been comprised greatly. I have not done anything for this. I don't plan to throw my case off a building anytime soon.
Back to the leak...
I think a few drops made it's way to the GPU's PCB through the holes cut in the back plate. I cleaned off what I could and carefully air blasted the $&%# outta the card while still installed [all power disconnect - unplugged, off course]. It wasn't a Deepwater-Horizon-type incident, so I feel I got it cleaned up. A majority of what hit the PCB is where there aren't many soldered connections. I read a couple of blogs about cleaning spills on line which made me feel better. I didn't have a 5-year-old spill apple juice on my GPU and MoBo while electrified, for instance.
As I inspected my loop I found the connection from the upper rad to the CPU was not initially a great connection. I took it apart, moved some fittings around, and everything is for sure rock solid this time. This incident provided some great experience with acrylic tubing. Hopefully, not expensive as well.
I am anxiously waiting to get home from work tonight, plug it in, and hope it turns on. Whatever I didn't clean should be dry by now. I've read that as long as everything is dry damage should be avoided.
UPDATE
I have been longing for the CaseLabs MAGNUM TH10 case. However, after pouring my soul into this mod and not feeling comfortable paying close to 600.00 USD for a case I DON'T NEED, I can't pull the trigger. I began looking at my case, the TH10, my case, the TH10...and it hit me. I can push this mod further and bolt two 800Ds side-by-side. I already have the removable MoBo tray, and with everything squeezed on "one side" already, it will essentially leave a whole 'nother 800D to play with! Since the 900D is off the boat, I should be able to find a used 800D for less than 200.00 USD. This will return all the front I\O features I eliminated in my mod, and add some structural rigidity. If I pull this off I TRULY will never need to buy a case again. Another 200.00 USD is in the budget for this build easy. The only downside is I will need to use case feet instead of the beautiful Lian Li case wheels.
What do you all think?
If everything turns on when I get home I will post before and after pics of the loop to show the changes made.
Stay tuned...
CATOSTROPHE PENDING...:huh:
Tuesday night I was putting thumb screws in to secure my MoBo tray. For some reason later realized the holes I drilled weren't lining up. As I twisted the case to line the holes up one of my connections began to leak on my GPU. Luckily I was able to cut the power before the coolant did it for me.
[the later realized...]
With all the mods I've done to the 800D it's rigidity has been comprised greatly. I have not done anything for this. I don't plan to throw my case off a building anytime soon.
Back to the leak...
I think a few drops made it's way to the GPU's PCB through the holes cut in the back plate. I cleaned off what I could and carefully air blasted the $&%# outta the card while still installed [all power disconnect - unplugged, off course]. It wasn't a Deepwater-Horizon-type incident, so I feel I got it cleaned up. A majority of what hit the PCB is where there aren't many soldered connections. I read a couple of blogs about cleaning spills on line which made me feel better. I didn't have a 5-year-old spill apple juice on my GPU and MoBo while electrified, for instance.
As I inspected my loop I found the connection from the upper rad to the CPU was not initially a great connection. I took it apart, moved some fittings around, and everything is for sure rock solid this time. This incident provided some great experience with acrylic tubing. Hopefully, not expensive as well.
I am anxiously waiting to get home from work tonight, plug it in, and hope it turns on. Whatever I didn't clean should be dry by now. I've read that as long as everything is dry damage should be avoided.
UPDATE
I have been longing for the CaseLabs MAGNUM TH10 case. However, after pouring my soul into this mod and not feeling comfortable paying close to 600.00 USD for a case I DON'T NEED, I can't pull the trigger. I began looking at my case, the TH10, my case, the TH10...and it hit me. I can push this mod further and bolt two 800Ds side-by-side. I already have the removable MoBo tray, and with everything squeezed on "one side" already, it will essentially leave a whole 'nother 800D to play with! Since the 900D is off the boat, I should be able to find a used 800D for less than 200.00 USD. This will return all the front I\O features I eliminated in my mod, and add some structural rigidity. If I pull this off I TRULY will never need to buy a case again. Another 200.00 USD is in the budget for this build easy. The only downside is I will need to use case feet instead of the beautiful Lian Li case wheels.
What do you all think?
If everything turns on when I get home I will post before and after pics of the loop to show the changes made.
Stay tuned...
alpenwasser
New member
Oh, that is indeed coming together quite nicely!
And good to hear about the GPU, would have been a bummer.
And good to hear about the GPU, would have been a bummer.
The Orange One
New member
Very nice work mate!
Only downer are the Noctua's, which kind of ruins the whole theme, imo
Only downer are the Noctua's, which kind of ruins the whole theme, imo
JayCobs
New member
Oh, that is indeed coming together quite nicely!
And good to hear about the GPU, would have been a bummer.
Yessir! That would've delayed the project, oh...'bout 3 years!
THose Noctuas need painting! Other than that it looks pretty gooooooood!
The Noctuas will not be painted.
I see the Noctuas as being neutral. Like a neutral color in a clothing outfit - i.e. a brown jacket, so to speak. Best believe I'm not painting $30 fans!
If I was attempting to appease the masses in a build competition I would've went with NB e-Loops. I also want to avoid my case becoming just another "black and white" build.The Orange One
New member
Fair enough Mate!
The Build is still sexy as hell!
The Build is still sexy as hell!
Goldskis45
New member
You could dye them? If done right it can look pretty darn good.
alpenwasser
New member
I'm not sure if the Noctuas obfuscated my earlier question to the OC3D folks, but, what are your thoughts on bolting two 800Ds together to make a "Cors-Labs MAGNUM TH10" a.k.a "Corsair 1600D"? To avoid repetition you can roll back in the thread to my initial asking. Thanks!
Personally I'm not too much of a friend of double wide cases, but if done right I
think it could be pretty awesome. It would certainly be a lot cheaper than buying
a Caselabs or something like that.
alpenwasser
New member
Would it be possible to reinforce the 800D back to or even above its former strength?
You do seem to be quite talented, so maybe there's a feasible way to achieve this.
I'm assuming that a large part of the lost rigidity is due to the M/B tray. I noticed that
quite strongly when I disassembled my R4 for ZEUS. Cases which are not inherently
designed for a M/B tray usually use the M/B mounting plate for structural rigidity (which
makes sense of course, I'd do the same thing if I was engineering these cases).
Looking at my Caselabs a lot of its rigidity simply comes from
If you want I could provide you with some detailed structural shots of the case, maybe
you could use that for inspiration? Also, could you provide some overview shots of your
system (M/B side and the back side)? It would allow us to get a better impression of its
current structural state so we'd be able to help better (I hope).
Simply thinking about what could be done without having a detailed look at the case's
current state I'm thinking that you might have to add a replacement for the lost M/B
tray, either with an additional metal plate or maybe with some struts in the right places
(you know, like a truss).
If you really want to have the second case bolted to the first one then of course
go for it, it's your build after all. And just because double wide cases are not really
my taste doesn't mean you can't do awesome workmanship and impress us with
some creative metal work. It could turn out awesome for all I know.
You do seem to be quite talented, so maybe there's a feasible way to achieve this.
I'm assuming that a large part of the lost rigidity is due to the M/B tray. I noticed that
quite strongly when I disassembled my R4 for ZEUS. Cases which are not inherently
designed for a M/B tray usually use the M/B mounting plate for structural rigidity (which
makes sense of course, I'd do the same thing if I was engineering these cases).
Looking at my Caselabs a lot of its rigidity simply comes from
- thick material
- lots and lots of screws to hold everything together
- clever ways of making the parts fit together
If you want I could provide you with some detailed structural shots of the case, maybe
you could use that for inspiration? Also, could you provide some overview shots of your
system (M/B side and the back side)? It would allow us to get a better impression of its
current structural state so we'd be able to help better (I hope
).Simply thinking about what could be done without having a detailed look at the case's
current state I'm thinking that you might have to add a replacement for the lost M/B
tray, either with an additional metal plate or maybe with some struts in the right places
(you know, like a truss).
If you really want to have the second case bolted to the first one then of course
go for it, it's your build after all. And just because double wide cases are not really
my taste doesn't mean you can't do awesome workmanship and impress us with
some creative metal work. It could turn out awesome for all I know.
JayCobs
New member
Fair enough on not painting the Noctuas, it's your rig after all
I'm not a fan of double cases either. What about a somewhat lower end Caselabs case, like the SM8 or Magnum M8?
Honestly it's the Magnum TH10 or no dice!
Would it be possible to reinforce the 800D back to or even above its former strength?
You do seem to be quite talented, so maybe there's a feasible way to achieve this.
I'm assuming that a large part of the lost rigidity is due to the M/B tray. I noticed that
quite strongly when I disassembled my R4 for ZEUS. Cases which are not inherently
designed for a M/B tray usually use the M/B mounting plate for structural rigidity (which
makes sense of course, I'd do the same thing if I was engineering these cases).
Looking at my Caselabs a lot of its rigidity simply comes from
- thick material
- lots and lots of screws to hold everything together
- clever ways of making the parts fit together
If you want I could provide you with some detailed structural shots of the case, maybe
you could use that for inspiration? Also, could you provide some overview shots of your
system (M/B side and the back side)? It would allow us to get a better impression of its
current structural state so we'd be able to help better (I hope
Simply thinking about what could be done without having a detailed look at the case's
current state I'm thinking that you might have to add a replacement for the lost M/B
tray, either with an additional metal plate or maybe with some struts in the right places
(you know, like a truss).
If you really want to have the second case bolted to the first one then of course
go for it, it's your build after all. And just because double wide cases are not really
my taste doesn't mean you can't do awesome workmanship and impress us with
some creative metal work. It could turn out awesome for all I know.
My earlier shots of the MoBo tray mod and my case in general will be the same as SkyNET is in its present state [sans the black paint, of course]. From my untrained perspective most of the rigidity for this case came from the mid-plate, lowest hard drive cage, and the hot swap bay. Once I removed it all the case became a wobbly mess.
When the MoBo tray is installed and thumb screwed in, the case becomes a lot more rigid. I don't think this case was designed to have this much weight in it, which is why I reinforced the bottom with a 16-gauge plate. I am thinking bolting in a somewhat beefy crossbar will help tremendously. It will be hidden when the side panel is in place. Similar to the front crossbar that is in the 900D. That and the Mobo tray bolted in should be sufficient. As far as metal work goes, I'm simply gonna bolt the cases together, and that's the end look I want. With the "money" side front holes plugged with dust filters and the other with ODD and hot swap bay intact, I will get the desired look. Or, at the MOST I might cut a blanking plate for the front to eliminate the middle seam.I would definitely, as always, appreciate any help and / or ideas.
Back shot:
JayCobs
New member
UPDATE!
You thought the thread was dead? :huh:
Nope...
Witness
Order received
Some of the goodies
Draining SkyNET
SR1s are just MASSIVE rads
Matching 8-pin EPS installed
SkyNET drained and built to full strength
Leak testing!
I hope this is enough Pastel Ice White
Winning...
What a long journey to arrive at this stage in the game. I ended up with a different position for the front facing rad. So, my cut in the side panel is grossly off. But, I planned on getting a custom dust filter made. Maybe that will "fade" out the fans when the side panel is on. There are two Kingston 120GB SSDs in raid 0 for those wondering. The 8 3-pin fan splitter came in handy. For 12 fans to be running in this build, it is MAD silent.
I wonder what Corsair George would think of this?
Life can really get in the way of a build.
Stay tuned...
You thought the thread was dead? :huh:
Nope...
Witness
Order received
Some of the goodies
Draining SkyNET
SR1s are just MASSIVE rads
Matching 8-pin EPS installed
SkyNET drained and built to full strength
Leak testing!
I hope this is enough Pastel Ice White
Winning...
What a long journey to arrive at this stage in the game. I ended up with a different position for the front facing rad. So, my cut in the side panel is grossly off. But, I planned on getting a custom dust filter made. Maybe that will "fade" out the fans when the side panel is on. There are two Kingston 120GB SSDs in raid 0 for those wondering. The 8 3-pin fan splitter came in handy. For 12 fans to be running in this build, it is MAD silent.
I wonder what Corsair George would think of this?
Life can really get in the way of a build.
Stay tuned...
