Yet another desk mod

[Perturabo]

A while ago I decided i've had enough of having the hulking mass that is my HAF-X sitting next to me roaring in my ear. I was planning to watercool it when I upgraded the internals but then I did something very silly. I went to LIT and saw the Scan Swordfish. Having fallen for the Swordfish but lacking access to my local bank's vault I decided I would build my own integrated computer/desk along the same lines.

So here is what I have currently:

Here is something I made hastily in autodesk123D Beta to give you an idea of what im going for. My proper designs are all hand drawn so you cant see them

Wood would probably be the easiest thing to make this out of but since I have no regard for my own state of being i've decided to go for metal. The two tower parts will be steel box section frames with a 1mm steel sheet skin. The top I am going to cheat a bit with and make it out of mdf for cost and comfort reasons and try some jiggery pokery to make it look metallic.

I'm still not 100% on how i'm going to distribute the internals across the two sides. I can just about fit everything I want into the right one but it will be tight and leaves me with the other one to think of a use for (drawers?). The way I have shown in the picture is to have the computer parts on the left side and all the watercooling stuff on the right. To make the windows symmetrical the larger one on the right would actually be a tall thin res that I will make from acrylic with the pump underneath.

Here is the parts list:

CPU: IB (will choose specific model after I see some benches)

Mobo: Will have to wait and see.

GPUs: Nvidia 6xx or AMD 7xxx SLI/CF again cant say for sure what I will go for until we know what they perform like.

HDD: Already have a 1TB seagate drive

SSD: Probably something along the lines of a Corsair force GT, will see how pricing is closer to the IB release date.

Soundcard: Already have Asus Xonar STX

Monitor: Already have HP ZR24w (ZR30w or U3011 will probably remain dreams

)

PSU: probably 1000W Enermax Platimax

Watercooling parts:

Pump: D5 Vario with bitspower top (may go for 2 if I end up pumping between the two sides)

CPU block: XSPC raystorm

GPU blocks: cant say yet

Res: Custom acrylic res

Tubing: Primochill Primoflex Pro 1/2" ID 3/4" OD

Fittings: Bitspower compression fittings matt black

Rad: MO-RA3 pro 9x140 (I want this to be quiet as poss)

fans: Scythe gentle typhoons 1450 rpm (reduced to ~600) or mabey Enermax appolish/silence.

The colour scheme is going to be primarily black with some purple cos purple is awesome.

I think that is it for now. Need to sort out the materials and encourage my uncle to lend me his welding gear

Dont know when this will start to take shape, pleanty of time until IB though and id like to get some opinions first anyway.

So please let me know what you think, be critical and call me a Noob. Id rather know before I start what ive overlooked/done wrong

 

[yassarikhan786]

This sounds really interesting. Will the Monitor(s) slide out of the desk like the sword-fish?

A single U3011 would compliment this epic desk, but it is bloody expensive.

 

[Pugsport]

you know you you can paint mdf to get a metallic finish. altho because you are using metal for the bottom and mdf for the top the shade may change a little tho.

looking forward to seeing it

 

[Perturabo]

Im not sure yet. I know how I would approach it but its primarily a case of how much this project costs. If I manage to get hold of a U3011 then there will be no ifs, its definately gonna be built in! Whatever happens it will be single monitor because personally I cant stand the gaps created by multiple monitors.

 

[yassarikhan786]

Im not sure yet. I know how I would approach it but its primarily a case of how much this project costs. If I manage to get hold of a U3011 then there will be no ifs, its definately gonna be built in! Whatever happens it will be single monitor because personally I cant stand the gaps created by multiple monitors.

Yup. For gaming the gaps are a hindrance. It would be awesome if Dell sponsored you with one

.

 

[Perturabo]

you know you you can paint mdf to get a metallic finish. altho because you are using metal for the bottom and mdf for the top the shade may change a little tho.

looking forward to seeing it

This is what im going to try first, it does seem like the simplest approach. Im assuming if I do enough steps of sanding and priming I should get a decent finish that doesnt look wood like. If I dont like it at that point then I have a few other more outlandish ideas but hopefully they wont be needed.

 

[Perturabo]

Yup. For gaming the gaps are a hindrance. It would be awesome if Dell sponsored you with one

.

That would be awesome indeed, I should probably look into sponsorship because otherwise im going to be unpopular with the other half when the bank account is empty

That is actually something I could use help with now I think about it. Anyone have any advice? Sponsorship must be day to day for some of you?

 

[Pugsport]

This is what im going to try first, it does seem like the simplest approach. Im assuming if I do enough steps of sanding and priming I should get a decent finish that doesnt look wood like. If I dont like it at that point then I have a few other more outlandish ideas but hopefully they wont be needed.

depends what you intend to paint it with really fella? if your going for a cellulose car paint, 2 pack car paint, water based car paint or house hold paint

the sanding and priming steps are really uncalled. mdf is man made so it has no grain (altho if your going to use a waterbased paint on it you will need to seal it up with a solvent based primer first or other wise it could start to delaminate) and is flat. Id go with scratch the surface up with some 320grit (might want to go with 400grit if you using rattle cans to keep marks down) apply one silly thin coat of primer (this leave little balls of paint on the surface as theres not enough paint to flow out which helps the next coat stick and flow out even) with that done apply the primer as normal thin coat but not to thin and apply 3 coats. next id apply black guide coat and with a sanding block and some 500grit paper flat the primer back until the guide coat has gone. clean the surface with a tack cloth or panel wipe then apply your colour as normal (thin layers building them slow and even not allowing the paint to go to a full cure before the next coat is applied just needs to be tacky) allow the final coat of colour to go tacky and then apply your lacquer. dont let the last colour coat dry or the lacquer in between coats other wise theres a chance the thinners wont softern the last layer of paint enough to let the next layer mix in with it and this is when layers of paint start to peel off. leave the lacquer to dry for 24 hours or as stated on the paint tin or hardner tin and after this time you should be fine to go ahead and start flatting the lacquer back in order to get a smooth surface to get the best shine. id go with 1000grit wet and dry paper on a sanding block all the way throw to 1500grit and then compound it up using Farecla - G3 paste

 

[Perturabo]

Cheers for that Pugs, ive not used rattle cans too many times before so that explaination really helps!

 

[Pugsport]

Cheers for that Pugs, ive not used rattle cans too many times before so that explaination really helps!

no worries fella

if your going to be doing it by rattle you will get a much better finish if you box coat it. box coating is where you paint one coat left to right and then once that coat is done turn the pannel 90 degrees or if your unable to turn the pannel apply paint from top to bottom as this will help you from getting lines in the paint where you have missed bits. also over lap the last spray line by a thrid as you move down as this will help to stop missed patches and help to stop over spray

 

[Perturabo]

Just a quick update on progress.

My Mig welder isnt giving me enough current, probably cos its been in a damp garage for too long. Hopefully I will either get that working or find a replacement in the next week or so.

Fingers crossed I can start welding the structure together just after Xmas.

 

[Azurite]

Hey Perturabo. The project seems very interesting and il folllow it for sure. Good luck

 

[Perturabo]

Hey Perturabo. The project seems very interesting and il folllow it for sure. Good luck

Thanks

I will try and get something interesting up ASAP.

 

[Perturabo]

Right another small update. Ive got the MIG welder going again and it seems to be making nice welds. The steel is also on its way! All I need to do now is think up a name for the project. Might open a new topic when I have a good name and ive got some actual build pics.