Watercooling is short circuiting

diablo170

New member
I basically had my q6600, evga 780i and 8800gts hooked up to a custom watercooling kit. 1st time turned it on instant short circuit remove the graphics card and the system runs, so replace graphics card new one goes in instant ff error on the motherboard, evga one rma can't find proof of purchse :( so bought a XFX 750i came today hooked it all up find that it instantly shorts out remove graphics card n it works, so what is wrong with the new graphics card now?
 
FF on post code normaly means all is good and its moved on to the boot device.

When you say 'system runs' did you have a different GPU to test it with?

Your post is a bit vauge tbh, but I'd start by taking all parts out of the machine and testing them on air.
 
780i starts with a ff then runs the boot process, mine was stuck on the first ff, no beeps no output. It was the same replacement graphucs card tht worked in the first computer. What details would you like to know?
 
So you have a new motherboard and new GPU all on air, which are giving you the same problems as the previous two which were on water?

What PSU are you running?
 
Sorry wasn't clear about that they are both also on water using the same block d-tek fuzion V2 for cpu and a clear acrylic EK 8800gt/gts g92 block for the gpu. Each has its on 240mm rad the gpu has a xspc rx240, whilst the cpu has a slimmer aquacomputer xtreme, 2x120mm ac ryan blue uvled fans on each. Both are cpu and gpu are subloops of a Primochill T3 res + pump (D5 Vario) PSU is a 750w Xigmatek NRP Range.
 
Try the GPU on air then, it may well be the block is messing things up. Have you used a non-conductive TIM on the GPU core too?

Little note, if your cearful enough theres no need to drain the loop etc, just remove the block from the card and rest it on the bottom of the case while testing. Saves hours of rebuild and leak testing time, but as I said you need to be cearful.
 
name='joebuck3t' said:

Not really helpful.

Anyway Ham tried out both gpus on air and the system still won't boot. Let me make it clear what happens everything fully connected and checked power delivered to system motherboard power led on. Turn switch on everything lights up and then stops dead all within a second. Remove graphics card from system but it stays connected to the waterloop (as in the card has the block attached which is still attached to the loop) turn power on again and the system runs obviously stopping on the Post code for no graphics/display hardware.

TIM used is Thermalright Chill Factor as far as i am aware non conductive. Another piece of information I don't hav enough screws for each hole on the gpu block 9/11 could this be breaking the card? Quite annoyed this is the second busted 8800gts =[
 
If the cards don't work on air then it probably isn't the lack of screws (enless they caused the issue on 1st boot).

What psu are you using? do you have another to test with? Insuficent power could trip the behaviour youve outlined.

Can you try a different pci-e slot?

Is the bios all at stock too btw? no adjustments to the pci-e bus or anything?
 
I don't think it is the PSU it is a 750 watt Xigmatek NRP series, it has the 12v split on 4 rails the graphics card has an entire 20A rail to itself. I believe my tubing is not sufficient to move the gpu to another pci e slot but from what I remember with my 780i the first slot has to be occupied. Bios is fully set to stock its a new motherboard!
 
In that case, re-assemble the new gpu & RMA it. Then once the new one comes back leave it on air!
 
Both bought on ebay =[ but the last guy accept returns so I will put it back on air n send it back. Also evga are douchebags abt ebay buys no help at all. Probably jus leave the block running at the bottom of my system UV lights make it look gd anyway. Cheers for the help Ham (Rep)
 
Tested with my brothers 8800gt, system boots fine no problems.

Hunta:

Confused how that would work where would i put the "voltage tester thingy"?
 
just touch the metal part of the water block when the system is un plugged then when it is plugged in, if there is any difference then you know there is a short on it. (im not sure if touching bare metal actualy shows any, been a while since i used one)

a volt meter is what i ment

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i usualy just use mine for checking if batterys are dead or now now =/
 
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