Tube Bursted

[alpenwasser]

when the pop was loud i heard on the first floor of the house, the sidepanel of the case was wet from the explosion,it sounded like a champgne bottle beeing opened

Holy crap! Something that popped into my mind regarding the boiling water: In every
water loop I've ever made water evaporated through the tubing over time (this will also have
been the case with your setup) and I eventually had lower pressure in the loop than outside
(a very slight vacuum). Therefore, the boiling point of your coolant may actually have
been lower than 100 C (lower ambient pressure lowers a liquid's boiling point). I'm really not
sure if it's enough to explain a possible boiling problem (if it does get to boiling point, a very
small amount of water can produce a large amount of steam). In any case, for this to happen
the water flow rate would have needed to drop significantly.

I must admit, I'm very intrigued by this. I'd love to do some experimenting around with heaters
and all the other stuff that would be needed for this, but I don't have the equipment. But I
doubt we'll get to the bottom of things just by doing wild guess work.

That's absolutely insane, I still can't believe my eyes lol.

I screwed too far into the rad and when I turned on the pump it just sprayed everywhere

Ha, I made the same mistake when I was a noob! :lol: Although I did detect my error before mounting
the radiator, so I just had to buy a new rad.

Damn, that literally exploded on you !

Looks like a manufacturing problem judging by the thikness of the shredded parts.

Deffenatelly some material missing there.

Yeah this just doesn't look quite right. I would definitely contact the tubing manufacturer and
at least ask them what they think about this. Don't know if you'll get a reasonable response,
but it doesn't hurt to ask I always say.

 

[kullzer]

this is what happens with the pump

 

[alpenwasser]

Is it normal for the pump rotor to be able to wiggle around that much? I've never seen a vid of a Laing
with a transparent top in close-up, so I don't know.

Are you running the pump on a controller or directly on 12 V? Have you tried hooking it up to a different
power source (if you have one available)?

 

[kullzer]

Is it normal for the pump rotor to be able to wiggle around that much? I've never seen a vid of a Laing
with a transparent top in close-up, so I don't know.

Are you running the pump on a controller or directly on 12 V? Have you tried hooking it up to a different
power source (if you have one available)?

running it straight form molex
tried with 2 diferent PSUs.
ps:thats not my video, my top is ek v2 acetal but is the same problem

 

[Remmy]

I have a clear top on my D5 (Swiftech MCP655), and within a second or two of powering on my PC it spins straight away, no juddering or starting and stopping or anything, so that looks very unusual to me, perhaps it is faulty.

 

[alpenwasser]

I have a clear top on my D5 (Swiftech MCP655), and within a second or two of powering on my PC it spins straight away, no juddering or starting and stopping or anything, so that looks very unusual to me, perhaps it is faulty.

Yeah, I really don't think the pump is supposed to do that on 12 V. My D5s spin up straight
away as well, even on lower voltages (and the principle of the two pumps is basically the same,
just different sizes). It might indeed be time to replace the pump.

 

[kullzer]

im going to get one of this http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/home/11-laing-ddc-pump-18w-repair-pcb-wled-smd-soldered-mcp355.html and try to fix the pump

 

[SparkleDJackson]

If the motor is damaged there is no point in repairing the pcb

 

[kullzer]

the rotor and housing looks normal, no scratches,from what ive seen on google its i think it was a abd batch lots of people ahd the same problem, eather way,i can put 15 usd and try to fix it before droping 80€ on a new pump

 

[CrazyRussian]

i would say there is no point, there is clearly something wrong with the Motor itself(i judge by how it rotates), the pcb has nothing to do with it, save the money.

i might still be wrong.. if u really want to try and fix it, disassemble it first and take a look if u see any damage inside.

 

[kullzer]

 

[Wraith]

Any news on the issues buddy?

 

[kullzer]

Any news on the issues buddy?

as soon i find the codes for my card i will purchase the pcb and see what happens.
i will keep you guys posted

 

[garih]

what coolent did you use? i am yet to wc, problems like this scare me!! damn lucky to shower ur pc and it still work tho.

 

[kullzer]

what coolent did you use? i am yet to wc, problems like this scare me!! damn lucky to shower ur pc and it still work tho.

destiled water,mayhem biocide and anti corrosive

 

[SeekaX]

what coolent did you use? i am yet to wc, problems like this scare me!! damn lucky to shower ur pc and it still work tho.

No worries, chances that the postman delivering the parts crashes through your wall are probably higher.

 

[kullzer]

Kool aid delivery man =)

 

[Wraith]

Kool aid delivery man =)

I've had hardware dropped (literally) outside my door. :-/

 

[alpenwasser]

i am yet to wc, problems like this scare me!!

As with most things in life, there's no such things as risk-free scenarios, but in 12 years
of W/C I've only had one leak that actually occurred when the system was in service and not
being tested for leaks (the compression nut incident which I mentioned above, my own fault).
And as mentioned I did puncture a radiator once with a screw, but I realized that before
mounting it.

If you do your research properly and work diligently while putting things together you should
be fine unless you get really, really unlucky such as OP of this thread. It's really mostly just
plugging things together.

 

[kullzer]

I took a gamble and bought the laing ddc + ek top v2 + supreme lt for 50€,
since the cheapest pump i can find in stores in portugal are 60€+,even with the new pcp it will cost allmost the same as just one pump