Sandy Bridge Vcore.

Only my opinion but I think ~1.4V max if you want no damage to your CPU and ~1.52V max if you have adequate cooling and don't mind the CPU loosing a couple hundred Mhz off it's max overclock over time.

I folded my 2600K for 1.5 months last year at 4.8Ghz at 1.47V, under water, temps were something like 65C starting out. It did lose stability at the end, but it's hard to tell what other factors were in play. The radiator had gotten full of dust and the ambient temp had started rising as summer rolled in and I didn't pay close attention to core temp.

I think electromigration does start occuring past ~1.4V, from my experience and reading tons of forum posts of Sandy Bridge. The rate it happens appears dependent on temperature. I personally think under 1.52V at a reasonable distance from Tcase max for 24/7 will not outright "kill it", although I would say your max overclock probably drops off 100Mhz-200Mhz after a few month or so. More importantly if you return it to stock speeds after 1.52V 24/7 it will probably last as long as you want to keep the processor.

However, my personal stance for a 24/7 machine... I have done competitions and pushed voltage and temps envelopes for a point here or a point there, but 100% 24/7 is an entirely different animal. Most importantly is recognizing diminishing returns. To make up some numbers: is 200Mhz worth 1.46V over 1.38V and 10C of temperature difference, how much degradation are you submitting the CPU to for 200Mhz? In folding that nets you maybe 1000 more PPD over the guy that used the Intel stock cooler. What if you spend $200 for watercooling to gain a couple hundred Mhz, your half way to a low end pieces parts i5 system that will net you 10,000 or more PPD. That said I think for a 24/7 machine that is going to be at 100% CPU it's best to just stick with 1.4V max. Give your overclock leeway and not riding the limit of stability on a 24/7 rig.

I haven't played with it in so long but try this experiment. Each CPU has it's own VID's set at sort and test, but in the BIOS/EFI try bypassing overcurrent protections but leave voltage and turbo voltage offsets at 0, dont touch loadline calibration, and set a 45 or 46 multiplier, then run a non AVX app at 100% and look at requested VID, then run a AVX app(LinX or something) and look at requested VID. I may be completely wrong it was over a year ago but for some reason I thought I saw 1.38V and 1.42V(AVX), which would be how intel designed it. The only thing you are variable you are intervening in is telling the CPU you have the heat removal capability to increase the stock limits for current.
 
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I'm folding 24/7 at the moment on my i5 2500k sandy... I'm not the most clued up with OC'in, only recently dipped my toes in the water, so i haven't manually set my volts. I've just altered multiplier to x45 and left voltage on auto, with my gigabyte z68xp-ud4 board.

Ran stable for a long time, with CPUZ reporting 1.368v, however recently my temps have started to sky rocket hitting 90C +. so ive droped the multiplier down to x42 auto volt at 1.332v.

I've not had a problem since. temps back down. below 80c which i personal feel more comfortable with, but i don't know if the extra temps is just down to British summer, it has been roasting lately or due to the clock. will try going back up when i can either afford a better cooler or we get our normal chilly weather back.

I've heard a lot of people saying exactly whats been said so far, that the 'safe' spot would be upto 1.4v, but again im not expert.

hope that's of some use :)

Cheers

Bobs



 
voltage is too high that's why u have so high temps.
higher than 70 will reduce the cpus life dramatically.
set vcore to manual and 1.30V for 42 multiplier.
 
Nope - didnt seem to care that he'd lost a couple of hundred quid by killing a processor.

Anyway, this thread is starting to capitulate so I'm not posting anymore. If you two want to kill your chips, or even risk killing them, that's up to you. Josh and myself have said 1.4v to be safe, and I really wouldnt be going over that unless your investing in some expensive watercooling
So if better cooling its ok ?
keep in mind this isn't thre case anymore with the new chips ...


BTW please just keep posting mate :cool:

EIDT 80c + is more then ok , as i am Folding a long timj at these speeds and Vcore and temps.........
on a 2500K and a 2600k ....
 
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So if better cooling its ok ?
keep in mind this isn't thre case anymore with the new chips ...


BTW please just keep posting mate :cool:

EIDT 80c + is more then ok , as i am Folding a long timj at these speeds and Vcore and temps.........

Sarcasm? :)

The specifics will change yes, but the general notion stays the same - I think we tend to say 1.35v for Ivy, more to be safe until people have fully tested them over a few months.
People here want to get the most out of their chips, and I get that, but I'd rather be entirely safe with temps and longevity to extend the chips life. Especially with me going through uni in september for the next 3 years, so mine has to last me till then, so I'm playing mine completely safe at 1.26v for 4.6ghz.

If people want to go for more, fine - but at the end of their life, when they upgrade and sell their parts, I wouldnt want to be one of the buyers - especially as the listing will most likelyu be advertised as: never been overclocked etc... Even for a backup rig, I'd never buy the main components if they were used.
 
Mine is set at 1.35V at 4.5 Ghz 24/7. Corsair H100 keeps it under 70 at all times. Certainly not extreme, but gets the job done without fretting about temps or degredation
 
Just an update - I took the pre-applied thermal paste off my H100 when I cleaned out my rig today. Replaced with Noctua and knocked 10-12 degrees off at load!! If heat is a concern on your Sandy - get some Noctua NT-H1!!
 
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