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Subbed!!
Project: Angel
- Thread starter w3bbo
- Start date
I've finally got personal life sorted, hence my absence from the forums, so getting back into the groove so to speak with my first task - finishing this build!!. I guess some of the equipment is a little out of date now though (2xgtx280's for a start), but hey, not as though any gpu killing games have been released that 2x280s shouldnt be ablke to so with so I'll be sticking to the spec for now.
I sorted the motherboard tray, managed to get a curtain pole from IKEA of all places, powdercoated white as it happens so once cut to size should be ideal for what I need.
I wheeled the Angel from it's storage space and it was covered in dust, its been that long since I messed with it - the shame. So sorry for the extreme delays and lack of updates.
Had a bit of a nightmare regarding the waterloops, did a dummy run, plumbed it all up only to realise that d-tek high flow barbs (my fave) don't like bits power rotarys and leave a big enough gap on the thread to cause a very slight leak - gutted. Anyway, I've got a good few bitspower barbs now which should sort that out. I could have ptfe the d-teks but looking at them they looked a little odd.
Hopefully they will solve the leak I had from using the d=tek ones which were a little too long on the thread. On inspection the thread of the d-teks seemed long enough but when everything was plumbed in there were minor leaks on all fittings
.
Heres a shot of the d-teks:
More to come later this weekend
I sorted the motherboard tray, managed to get a curtain pole from IKEA of all places, powdercoated white as it happens so once cut to size should be ideal for what I need.
I wheeled the Angel from it's storage space and it was covered in dust, its been that long since I messed with it - the shame. So sorry for the extreme delays and lack of updates.
Had a bit of a nightmare regarding the waterloops, did a dummy run, plumbed it all up only to realise that d-tek high flow barbs (my fave) don't like bits power rotarys and leave a big enough gap on the thread to cause a very slight leak - gutted. Anyway, I've got a good few bitspower barbs now which should sort that out. I could have ptfe the d-teks but looking at them they looked a little odd.
Hopefully they will solve the leak I had from using the d=tek ones which were a little too long on the thread. On inspection the thread of the d-teks seemed long enough but when everything was plumbed in there were minor leaks on all fittings
.Heres a shot of the d-teks:
More to come later this weekend
Ducky Spud
New member
An update! Long time no see Webbo, glad to hear you've got everything sorted out 
Cant wait to see this get going again, was turning out to be a truly epic build!
Long time no see Webbo, glad to hear you've got everything sorted out Cant wait to see this get going again, was turning out to be a truly epic build!
So I got a little more done this weekend.
The new bitspower barbs sorted out the leaks I was having from the old d-tek barbs:
However, I had issues with one of the rotarys as it sprung a leak too but as it was slightly compressing part of the tubing anyway, I opted to remove it completely from the setup and replace it with a plain barb. So here's the new tubing layout:
Looks a little better than before but I reckon I'll also change the input to the heatkiller as that looks a little stretched and could be smoother, good job I bought plenty of spare tubing eh?
I've also chopped the ikea curtain pole down to size and braced it to the motherboard tray which has evened things out a little and given the tray much more stability:
The new bitspower barbs sorted out the leaks I was having from the old d-tek barbs:
However, I had issues with one of the rotarys as it sprung a leak too but as it was slightly compressing part of the tubing anyway, I opted to remove it completely from the setup and replace it with a plain barb. So here's the new tubing layout:
Looks a little better than before but I reckon I'll also change the input to the heatkiller as that looks a little stretched and could be smoother, good job I bought plenty of spare tubing eh?
I've also chopped the ikea curtain pole down to size and braced it to the motherboard tray which has evened things out a little and given the tray much more stability:
While I was on a roll, I began to do a little cable tidying. Anyone who has owned a mountainmods case will tell you that they are notoriously poor for cable management so this is in the forefront of my mind when making this build.
I know I will never be able to completely hide all of the cabling so making it look as neat as possible was the task at hand, so I began with the SATA cables which were braided earlier:
Because the case has loads of fans I needed something to keep the fan cables tidy. Lucky for me a fellow forum member helped me out with some nifty little ties that work a treat should you have ample screw holes:
They come in plenty of sizes too so depending on your cable number/width, the right size could be chosen to minimise clutter:
More to follow later this week.
I know I will never be able to completely hide all of the cabling so making it look as neat as possible was the task at hand, so I began with the SATA cables which were braided earlier:
Because the case has loads of fans I needed something to keep the fan cables tidy. Lucky for me a fellow forum member helped me out with some nifty little ties that work a treat should you have ample screw holes:
They come in plenty of sizes too so depending on your cable number/width, the right size could be chosen to minimise clutter:
More to follow later this week.
Minor update:
Finished of bleeding the loop the other night (still a few minor bubbles to get rid off but they will go soon enough. Also added a couple of LEDs to the XSPC res's:
Did a bit more braiding this time a couple of molex splitters and the cabling for the cathodes:
Painted invertors:
I'll be using a combo of 2x blue for the motherboard area and a couple of white for the water/rad area.
Decided to 'upgrade' the ram from the 1600MHz Patriot Viper to some lush 2000MHz CAS7 OCZ Blades:
..with the Corsair ram coolers fitted:
Finished of bleeding the loop the other night (still a few minor bubbles to get rid off but they will go soon enough
. Also added a couple of LEDs to the XSPC res's:
Did a bit more braiding this time a couple of molex splitters and the cabling for the cathodes:
Painted invertors:
I'll be using a combo of 2x blue for the motherboard area and a couple of white for the water/rad area.
Decided to 'upgrade' the ram from the 1600MHz Patriot Viper to some lush 2000MHz CAS7 OCZ Blades:
..with the Corsair ram coolers fitted:
Good luck with those blades LOL Ive had 3 sets now, dont think Ill ever use OCZ ram again 
Rig looks awesome though.
Rig looks awesome though.
killablade
New member
That looks really really cool. I don't like OCZ ram though. Two friends of mine both bought OCZ ram and both of the kits died. They then RMA'd the kits and those kits died aswell. After that they went with Corsair Dominators, and they haven't had any problems ever since. I hope your kit will be fine!
If you RMA now its either a long wait or an SSD as replacement, the firm seems to have lost the plot ATM
I've had problems with most ram manufacturers. Thing is ram is perhaps the most sensitive component prone to failure in a PC. It's not the module manufacturers, it's the memory chip manufacturers. Elipda, Micron etc for example. I 'borrowed' Jims dominators and they were DOA. Every manufacturer has the same problems depending on who you talk to. I must say I do normally go for Corsair for reliability but at the time, the OCZ kit was the best. IF they did die I would be happy to swap em for a 120GB vertex
I don't expect the modules to go much further than stock so I won't be overvolting them anyway. Fingers crossed they will be ok.
I don't expect the modules to go much further than stock so I won't be overvolting them anyway. Fingers crossed they will be ok.
Before I finished off the build and began the cable tidy I thought I had better give it a quick boot to see all is well.
Like most builders, booting for the first time can be a moment of dread but huraahh! It booted first time with no issues whatsoever.
Thats as good as this update gets as there is doom and gloom to follow. After having a quick scour through the BIOS and inputting the 'easy' 4ghz settings I rebooted. The fans flickered slightly but no reboot. Strange I thought.
Must be a bad overclock or a setting I missed somewhere, however despite my best attempts (clearing CMOS etc) the damn thing refused to boot back into life. In a last ditch attempt I removed the power cord, cmos battery and left it for 20 mins or so.
Upon my return, it booted straight back up again - yay! This time I just loaded up the optimised defaults and the thing wouldn't boot again (cue CMOS clear and 10 minute wait).
At first I assumed there might have somehow damaged the psu so I tested it in another system and it work flawlessly - strange. Looking around on the net however, there appears to be a compatability issue with the enermax+85 psu and gigabyte UD5
!
Regardless and not willing to accept defeat I booted the PC with a redundant PSU I had as a back up and it worked first time, no issues with reboot either so deffo a PSU problem. I've heard all the horror stories about cold booting issues with this board, despite not having any previously so in desparation I updated the BIOS to F12, replugged the enermax psu and crossed my fingers.
Nada.
Gutted.
So my options:
1. Keep the enermax PSU as a redundant supply to power everything (inc the 2xGTX280's) apart from the mainboard. It seems a shame not to, being as I have a second empty PSU slot in the case.
This however means braiding up and spraying the second PSU - more time and ballache that I really care to go through!
2. By a new single PSU and rebraid/spray that? Time, money AND expense!
3, Throw the lot in the bin and go for a beer to console myself
Thoughts?
Like most builders, booting for the first time can be a moment of dread but huraahh! It booted first time with no issues whatsoever
.Thats as good as this update gets as there is doom and gloom to follow. After having a quick scour through the BIOS and inputting the 'easy' 4ghz settings I rebooted. The fans flickered slightly but no reboot. Strange I thought.
Must be a bad overclock or a setting I missed somewhere, however despite my best attempts (clearing CMOS etc) the damn thing refused to boot back into life. In a last ditch attempt I removed the power cord, cmos battery and left it for 20 mins or so.
Upon my return, it booted straight back up again - yay! This time I just loaded up the optimised defaults and the thing wouldn't boot again (cue CMOS clear and 10 minute wait).
At first I assumed there might have somehow damaged the psu so I tested it in another system and it work flawlessly - strange. Looking around on the net however, there appears to be a compatability issue with the enermax+85 psu and gigabyte UD5
!Regardless and not willing to accept defeat I booted the PC with a redundant PSU I had as a back up and it worked first time, no issues with reboot either so deffo a PSU problem
. I've heard all the horror stories about cold booting issues with this board, despite not having any previously so in desparation I updated the BIOS to F12, replugged the enermax psu and crossed my fingers.Nada
.Gutted.
So my options:
1. Keep the enermax PSU as a redundant supply to power everything (inc the 2xGTX280's) apart from the mainboard. It seems a shame not to, being as I have a second empty PSU slot in the case
.This however means braiding up and spraying the second PSU - more time and ballache that I really care to go through!
2. By a new single PSU and rebraid/spray that? Time, money AND expense!
3, Throw the lot in the bin and go for a beer to console myself
Thoughts?
Runebeard
New member
Personally, if I had a spare PSU, I'd just spray and rebraid that, especially if it wasn't one I was planning on reusing, as you could take all cables out cept the 24-pin (and 8-pin if you need that changed from the Enermax as well) to make it a much smaller job.
Even so, option 3 sounds like a winner, well the beer part anyways, though in my case I'd make it a cider
Must be a great feeling to be on the home stretch now
Even so, option 3 sounds like a winner, well the beer part anyways, though in my case I'd make it a cider
Must be a great feeling to be on the home stretch now
killablade
New member
Aww that sucks!
I agree with Bungral. I'd do that, but I'd combine it with option 3!
I agree with Bungral. I'd do that, but I'd combine it with option 3!
For those who may have had the same problem, here's what is actually happening:
From what I can tell, in Laymans terms it happens when the left hand (Motherboard manufacturer) doesn't talk to the right hand (PSU manufacturer). Enermax, Seasonic, Corsair and Thermaltake have all had issues with both the EVGA Classified and Gigabyte UD5. It's basically down to when the PC tries to boot. Some models of the above PSU's have a power protection circuit 'feature'. The PSU sends a signal to the motherboard saying 'I have the power, do you want some'? The motherboard then should reply, 'Yes please'. However, should there be a delay in response, the PSU assumes there is a problem and automatically cuts out as 'protection'. The resulting fan twitching and boot cycles are often mistaken as ground faults or motherboard/PSU errors. When a PSU/MOB is replaced the problem dissappears when in fact there is nothing wrong with either of them, they are just incompatible.
The UD5 and Classified both have extended power on cycles which trigger this protection circuit, unfortunately. This problem has been resolved with the latest models of PSU/mobo.
Anyway, back to the log:
I'm gonna use a second psu to power the mobo/CPU and use the enermax to power the GPU's, Pumps, Fans and the rest of the hardware. It's no bad thing as I have the space, its just a ball ache to have to braid another 24+8pin on hte PSU along with spraying the damn thing!
From what I can tell, in Laymans terms it happens when the left hand (Motherboard manufacturer) doesn't talk to the right hand (PSU manufacturer). Enermax, Seasonic, Corsair and Thermaltake have all had issues with both the EVGA Classified and Gigabyte UD5. It's basically down to when the PC tries to boot. Some models of the above PSU's have a power protection circuit 'feature'. The PSU sends a signal to the motherboard saying 'I have the power, do you want some'? The motherboard then should reply, 'Yes please'. However, should there be a delay in response, the PSU assumes there is a problem and automatically cuts out as 'protection'. The resulting fan twitching and boot cycles are often mistaken as ground faults or motherboard/PSU errors. When a PSU/MOB is replaced the problem dissappears when in fact there is nothing wrong with either of them, they are just incompatible.
The UD5 and Classified both have extended power on cycles which trigger this protection circuit, unfortunately. This problem has been resolved with the latest models of PSU/mobo.
Anyway, back to the log:
I'm gonna use a second psu to power the mobo/CPU and use the enermax to power the GPU's, Pumps, Fans and the rest of the hardware. It's no bad thing as I have the space, its just a ball ache to have to braid another 24+8pin on hte PSU along with spraying the damn thing!
