Disquiet V2 Build Log - Ryzen, GTX 1080, Jonsbo W2, Air Cooled

[Bartacus]

If you can get your memory timings nice and tight in addition to your CPU OC, your score will go up even further. 4Ghz is tough with Ryzen though. My 1700 can't hit it at all, and most people who can seem to claim it's not worth the voltage jump.

I noticed your avatar in that gargantuan OCN Ryzen OCing thread. There's some good info in there, but you really need to use the advanced search to find anything, since the bloody thread is almost 3000 pages! Might be worth searching for your specific memory kit and seeing if anyone has posted any timings for your ram that might help you. But you've probably already done that I'm guessing.

 

[AngryGoldfish]

If you can get your memory timings nice and tight in addition to your CPU OC, your score will go up even further. 4Ghz is tough with Ryzen though. My 1700 can't hit it at all, and most people who can seem to claim it's not worth the voltage jump.

I noticed your avatar in that gargantuan OCN Ryzen OCing thread. There's some good info in there, but you really need to use the advanced search to find anything, since the bloody thread is almost 3000 pages! Might be worth searching for your specific memory kit and seeing if anyone has posted any timings for your ram that might help you. But you've probably already done that I'm guessing.

I've TRIED it. But I gave up as like you said it's just too much information to wade through even with the search function. I often end up creating new threads if I have a specific question that I cannot find an answer to. The singular threads are just too fast to keep up with and too long to rifle through.

My timings are already quite tight for Ryzen—CL14 (14 14 14 34). I'm not sure if it's worth it going any further. In fact, I've not seen anyone get tighter timings than that on Ryzen. Normally people would try and get 3600Mhz at looser timings. I'm not fussed about that. I'd rather rock solid stability than loads of tweaking for only minor performance gains.

 

[Bartacus]

Oh yeah, if you have CL14 timings at 3200mhz, that's awesome. I assumed your timings might be worse off than that. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

 

[AngryGoldfish]

Oh yeah, if you have CL14 timings at 3200mhz, that's awesome. I assumed your timings might be worse off than that. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

I feel like so far I've been quite fortunate. 3.95Ghz at 1.3750V is not a silicon loser by any means. It's not amazing, but it's early stages yet. I could be able to get more (or less depending on your perspective).

 

[AlienALX]

I've seen far worse fella tbh. Some max out at 3.7ghz without giving them FX volts

 

[AngryGoldfish]

4Ghz is stable so far...

 

[Eddie long]

nice build mate , that cooler is a monster , but obviously dose its job very well

 

[NeverBackDown]

4Ghz is stable so far...

Voltage? Temps? Fan speed a leaf blower or set up for silence?

 

[Excalabur50]

Looks very nice mate

 

[AngryGoldfish]

Voltage? Temps? Fan speed a leaf blower or set up for silence?

https://valid.x86.fr/iqckyq

Temperatures were 74-76°C with max fan speeds using OCCT, IBT, Cinebench, and FPU/CPU from AIDA64. Unfortunately I can't get the fans to spin any slower than that as Fan Xpert won't let me increase the thermal threshold. Once temperatures hit 75°C the fans speed up to their maximum value. It's too loud, but my system will never experience that kind of load anyway. Under gaming load my system is relatively quiet, and at idle my hard drives are louder than the fans.

 

[AngryGoldfish]

Few updates:

1) My BeQuiet fan is working again. Well, to be more precise, I figured out that there was an obstruction that was causing the fan to stop. I could have sworn the blades weren't spinning before I installed it into the case, but maybe I only tested it when it was in the case. Anyway, I found these rubber grommets were obstructing the blades so I removed them and now the fan is running fine.

2) I turned the LED strip to face downwards. The lighting looks nicer now. I also tested orange as a colour, and white is the one I'll be sticking with. It's just a natural illumination, which is what I want. An RGB kit with a controller might be a bit overkill for that, but I wasn't sure what colour I wanted and needed to test things. I've also decided to buy another LED strip to install at the bottom as the bottom of the case is too dark. It's a shame because there is stuff going on down there I'd like to show off. I thought the motherboard and GPU LEDs would do that job, but they are not bright enough.

3) I'm still working on fan profiles. I've ditched Fan Xpert; it's been too buggy. I'm back to using the BIOS now. It's more time consuming, but it's at least functional and consistent.

4) I've decided to replace my 1TB HDD with a 1TB SSD. The noise reduction when the HDD stops spinning is so big that it's worth it. When the HDD's stop spinning, at idle the system is almost inaudible; it's incredibly quiet. I know £300 for something so small is a tall order, and that £300 could have been put towards a 1080Ti instead of a 1080, but I don't plan to add it for a few months, possibly longer, so it's OK.

5) 4Ghz is still stable at 1.352V. I think that's amazing. I've definitely hit a good overclocker here, which is something I've never experienced before. I think AMD is getting me back for the R9 Fury that would not overclock at all. Spending the extra €30 or so for the 1600X over the 1600 has paid off. I have yet to run a test overnight yet, but it seems stable so far. Even if it's not I'd still be bordering on stability so a small bump in voltage should do the trick.

6) I'll be measuring for custom cables soon. I'm still going with Pexon PCs, but unfortunately they don't offer the kind of granularity in the sizes and connectors as they used to (it's too time consuming and they get it wrong sometimes). The backside will therefore not be as tidy or perfect as I was hoping, but it'll look a lot better than the crows nest it is now. I'm still deciding whether to beg Pexon to build me a custom cable with four SATA connectors and a MOLEX from one PSU output or whether I should just order stock cables and have more bulk in the back. The case has enough room for it so I might just order more individual cables than one or two custom ones.

 

[AlienALX]

Sounds good. Glad you fixed that fan 'cause it didn't seem right tbh. Seems you also won the lottery on the CPU, good going man

 

[Bartacus]

Wow, my 1700 can't even do 3.8Ghz at that low a voltage! Winner winner chicken dinner! Good move on ditching Fan Xpert too. Asus software is generally crap. Now if only Asus would update the bios to allow us to bind fan curves to liquid temps.

 

[AngryGoldfish]

Wow, my 1700 can't even do 3.8Ghz at that low a voltage! Winner winner chicken dinner! Good move on ditching Fan Xpert too. Asus software is generally crap. Now if only Asus would update the bios to allow us to bind fan curves to liquid temps.

Yeah, if ASUS offered the ability the bind fan curves to the GPU as well that would be awesome. I care more about GPU temperatures than I do CPU temps. Also, the lack of BIOS profiles is weird. Am I missing something?

 

[Bartacus]

Yeah, if ASUS offered the ability the bind fan curves to the GPU as well that would be awesome. I care more about GPU temperatures than I do CPU temps. Also, the lack of BIOS profiles is weird. Am I missing something?

Not sure, since I never use those. There are loads of memory profiles, but those are the only ones I've messed with.

 

[AngryGoldfish]

Not sure, since I never use those. There are loads of memory profiles, but those are the only ones I've messed with.

It's just, I've had to input my overclocks a couple of times now after pulling power from the system. Not sure why as the motherboard should be using the battery to save the details; it's probably just a cold boot bug.

 

[Bartacus]

It's just, I've had to input my overclocks a couple of times now after pulling power from the system. Not sure why as the motherboard should be using the battery to save the details; it's probably just a cold boot bug.

I think I asked you this in another thread, but what bios are you running? 1401 I seem to recall? The beta 9920 bios solved my cold boot issues.

 

[NeverBackDown]

Yeah you definitely hit a lottery. 4ghz at less than 1.4 volts is a winner and you managed a solid 1.35v. Your chip could probably hit 4.2 if you really wanted to! I would try it just for the bragging rights. I would probably stick with 4ghz as a 24/7. Maybe even 3.9ghz if I could get the voltage even lower just so the fans never spin up much.

 

[AngryGoldfish]

Strongly considering an Aquaero 6 LT. IT's €100, but it's looking like it's the only way of managing fan speeds accurately.

Another option would be a manual fan controller. I could buy a 1TB SSD to replace my HDD so that I'd have room for a 5.25" fan controller and then manually adjust my fans when I game and when I'm idling, but I don't like this idea very much. It's another option. Unfortunately I have no other place to install a manual fan controller.

Also, I've been having cold boot issues. I could boot and the system will shut down again
and then reboot, causing my P-state overclock to disappear. It's weird that it's only Zen Common States settings that revert back to stock and nothing else. I've heard bumping memory voltage up to 1.37V or 1.4V fixes boot loop issues. I might try this. If that doesn't work I'll consider trying another BIOS. Of course, I could just put my system to sleep at night and not shut it down because it's quite stable otherwise.

I'll also get round to measuring cables and ordering them.

 

[Bartacus]

If you're ok with doing custom wiring on fans, or don't mind splitters, you could also try to find a used Sunbeam manual fan controller. I have 2 of em and love em both. I know most guys on this forum will bash 5.25 bay controllers, but I wouldn't be without one. Paid $20 for a 6 channel x 30 watt Sunbeam, and I love the thing. Great for controlling brightness on LED strips too. The Sunbeam rheostat controllers allow for full voltage control, from zero to 12v. A lot of manual controllers only go from 40% - 100%, which limits your control, especially if you have good fans that can run at lower voltage (eg Gentle Typhoons).

Best $20 I ever spent.