Differences between Copper, Acetal, Nickel Coated and Full Nickel waterblocks

crap-at-games

New member
so guys i would basically like to know the differences obviously they are different because they are different metals but whats the dfference in terms of watercooling, which is better and pros/cons of each ? im sorry if this has been asked before but im struggling to get my head around it many thanks
 
The type of metal determines how efficiently the heat from the CPU or GPU can transfer to the block then to the water.

Look up thermal conductivity for metals. The common metals used for waterblocks and in order of thermal conductivity:

Aluminium < Copper < Sliver

Yes, you can get pure silver waterblocks :). £$£!

I don't think the nickel coating has much of an effect either way, that's applied for aesthetics.

The top of the block doesn't have a real effect on the blocks performance I reckon. It's chosen due to cost (acetal cheap, copper expensive) and aesthetics. I prefer metal topped blocks as I've have had acrylic and acetal blocks weep and spider crack in the threads before.

Then there's the subject of galvanic corrosion from using different metals in a loop ...
 
thanks for the reply Mysterae i think i might go for like a copper based waterblock just gota get some funds tother lol also as a 1st time watercooler would u sugest tube or hard line for a 1st timer ?
 
it does look great idd. But when doing WC for the first time it might be better to keep it simple because once you're at it things can get hard or diffrent than you thought it would be ^^

Try and learn to build a simple loop with normal tubing. Seeing how its done and actually doing it is a big difference though. And while you're at it you can have hard tube in the back of your mind. If it went smoothly you can go to the next step and try hardtubing, with or without bends

Thats how i am doing it atm ^^
 
thanks and i will keep that in mind i already have a good idea of how my loop will go apart from where to put my bleed valve as ive got to put a rad in the bottom of my case also got to modify my case a bit as well like put a 100 mmm hole in the bottom to take a 120mm fan and also drill some holes for the res to mount and drill more in the top to mount the rad lol
 
Sounds like you've got a bit of work ahead of you Crap-at-games, but that's half the fun :).

I agree with Creatixx, stick with a normal tubing build for your first as it's much easier, less expensive and you need less tools. If you have a reservoir you don't technically need a bleed valve as the air will eventually get to your reservoir, but you might need to shufty the case around to help move the air. If you are talking about a drain port, again not absolutely necessary but very useful for the few occasion you need to drain your system.
 
From my personal experience albeit very limited experience with watercooling, the difference between Copper, Acetal, Nickel and full Nickel waterblocks is usually just the looks as the temp differences are so minor it's not even worth worrying about.

Again this is just from my very limited experience.
 
Yup it's more for aesthetics as the difference is o so minor. The nickel plated blocks are actually copper blocks with a shiny nickel layer coating.

As for tubing choice, all up to you. If you feel confident enough to go for a hard line loop, do it, the end result is well worth it. I also went full overkill on my very first build ever (the one in my sig) and I haven't had a single moment of regret. Just make sure you do plenty of research on what all of the possibilities are and what to look out for. It's a (very) steep learning curve but in the end it's all worth it ;)
 
Sounds like you've got a bit of work ahead of you Crap-at-games, but that's half the fun :).

I agree with Creatixx, stick with a normal tubing build for your first as it's much easier, less expensive and you need less tools. If you have a reservoir you don't technically need a bleed valve as the air will eventually get to your reservoir, but you might need to shufty the case around to help move the air. If you are talking about a drain port, again not absolutely necessary but very useful for the few occasion you need to drain your system.

hi Mysterae and yes i did mean a drain valve lol i think ive got a place for it now
 
Im a happy chappie because today i got some of my 1st parts for my watercooling adventure and also a d5 vario and the blue bit is a barrow item

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which when put together leaves this
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i would like to say thanks to all you guys on here you have all been an inspiration to me and all the help you have given so far is most appreciated and i just hope i can do you all proud
 
Good luck mate, and just remember - do not skip the leak testing phase - no matter how good you think your plumbing is. I've been surprised by torn o-rings in fittings and fittings I've forgotten to tighten down. Lots of paper towels in strategic places (I like blue paper towel as the water shows up as dark spots, easier to spot), power disconnected from everything except the pump, and jump start the PSU to start the pump and get the liquid moving :).
 
Hi guys im just trying to sort some radiators out for my watercooling im looking for a 360 and a 240 radiator and just wondered if any one has had any experiance with the Magicool G2 Slim radiator and if so is it any good or should i be looking at something else cheers
 
Hi guys im just trying to sort some radiators out for my watercooling im looking for a 360 and a 240 radiator and just wondered if any one has had any experiance with the Magicool G2 Slim radiator and if so is it any good or should i be looking at something else cheers

I was looking at the magicool G2 slim myself for my front radiator I have not had any experience with them but they must be good because they keep selling out of stock quickly :)
 
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