Beginners Guide To Water Cooling
- Thread starter tinytomlogan
- Start date
Look in the accessories part of the watercooling store you are buying your parts from.
Hey ttl, can i use some of these 2 instead of buying 45 degree ones? i cant find matching 45 degree compressions anywhere
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...er-with-14-Inner-Thread--Black-pid-11566.html
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/phob...-on-fitting-straight-g1-4-black-nickel-plated
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...er-with-14-Inner-Thread--Black-pid-11566.html
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/phob...-on-fitting-straight-g1-4-black-nickel-plated
Thats because 90 degree compressions will cause too many problems with blocks dude. Comps are faffing naff imho.
Just buy them individually then dude.
Get 1/2 barbs and 7/16 hose dude, its tight to get on but look at the Assassin rig theres not even clips on there
Yeah i saw that, looked awesome, how is that 7/16 compared to 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing??
Is this right?
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...11-16mm-High-Flex-Tubing--Black-pid-6747.html
Is this right?
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...11-16mm-High-Flex-Tubing--Black-pid-6747.html
Em I don’t see it I am buying from specialtech sorry I don’t see them that’s why I was asking for a name of the tool I am sorry to bug to tom
You wont notice any difference. BTW the last time I used that black XSPC hose it was kinking far too easily. Id deffo look for a different brand if you want black hose dude.
Just jump it with a paper clip like in the video.
Ooh thanks for the heads up!
mArTyN
New member
The video's really did get rid of a lot of fearfull thoughts I had (imagination running wild) about water cooling. I am doing a new rig within the next couple of weeks. I plan to start with an NHD 14 to get me up and running (this covers up the fact that I ain't got the funds yet) and then I really think I will have a crack at this. SOOOOOOOO................thank you Tom for a well thought out video guide.
ShortAlieN
New member
Yes thank you very much Tom. Between this guide, the G1 Assassin build and many other of your videos I have spent way too much money on silly computer stuff. But really, you have away of clearing up the problems and worries that come with computer builds, and then point me in the right direction for good parts. I'll be posting my rig in the gallery very soon, parts started arriving today for the finishing touches.
Hi tom I thought I just say in your video you use dye based bombs I was told that is not a good way
Link
Also you should have just went with colour uv tubing and buy steam distilled water or distilled water as this way it a much safer way just to say I know that you got free samples but dye based is not always the best way to go in the long term
I have been doing further research then when I have found out some things
You also forgot to mention on how to clean your system so I have found this out
How to clean your system
Rinse with water. The CPU block, tubing and pump will just need a quick rinse with distilled water, if anything (I rarely bother), the rad will require a bit more work. I am not familiar with those rads and don't know how dirty they are likely to be inside, but the basic process is
Fill with warm water (distilled or tap) and white vinegar in a rough 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water mix.
Cap the ports and shake (be careful, the rad will get warm / hot depending on how hot the water is)
Pour out into a glass bowl
If the liquid is not clear, repeat
Once the liquid come out clear, rinse 2-3 more times with plain distilled water to remove vinegar.
Depending on the rad this might take a few minutes to a few hours (e.g. Thermochill PA rads)
Can I use tap water to clean these parts like cpu waterblock and the reservoir and pump and radiator?
You can for an initial rinse, but I would use distilled for a final rinse. It is cheap and will remove the risk of even a tiny amount of depositis.
Can I ask as the radiator has a breed value can I use this to get my bubbles out of the system if I leave it open?
Yes, that is what it is for, but do not leave it open. Fill the system, then with a towel placed under the bleed valve, slowly open it and be prepared to close it again fast. The idea is to get all the air out then close it when the water starts to come out. Be aware that, depending on the orientation of your radiator, this might not get all the air out in one go. Move the rad round a bit and try again.
Still not found out the best way to get thermal paste of the cpu water block but I think I will Google this hope this help some of the other form members
Link
Also you should have just went with colour uv tubing and buy steam distilled water or distilled water as this way it a much safer way just to say I know that you got free samples but dye based is not always the best way to go in the long term
I have been doing further research then when I have found out some things
You also forgot to mention on how to clean your system so I have found this out
How to clean your system
Rinse with water. The CPU block, tubing and pump will just need a quick rinse with distilled water, if anything (I rarely bother), the rad will require a bit more work. I am not familiar with those rads and don't know how dirty they are likely to be inside, but the basic process is
Fill with warm water (distilled or tap) and white vinegar in a rough 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water mix.
Cap the ports and shake (be careful, the rad will get warm / hot depending on how hot the water is)
Pour out into a glass bowl
If the liquid is not clear, repeat
Once the liquid come out clear, rinse 2-3 more times with plain distilled water to remove vinegar.
Depending on the rad this might take a few minutes to a few hours (e.g. Thermochill PA rads)
Can I use tap water to clean these parts like cpu waterblock and the reservoir and pump and radiator?
You can for an initial rinse, but I would use distilled for a final rinse. It is cheap and will remove the risk of even a tiny amount of depositis.
Can I ask as the radiator has a breed value can I use this to get my bubbles out of the system if I leave it open?
Yes, that is what it is for, but do not leave it open. Fill the system, then with a towel placed under the bleed valve, slowly open it and be prepared to close it again fast. The idea is to get all the air out then close it when the water starts to come out. Be aware that, depending on the orientation of your radiator, this might not get all the air out in one go. Move the rad round a bit and try again.
Still not found out the best way to get thermal paste of the cpu water block but I think I will Google this hope this help some of the other form members
Hi tom I thought I just say in your video you use dye based bombs I was told that is not a good way
Also you should have just went with colour uv tubing and buy steam distilled water or distilled water as this way it a much safer way just to say I know that you got free samples but dye based is not always the best way to go in the long term
Thats crap mate. Ive been watercooling for years and even distilled will grow eventually.
dugdiamond
New member
tom is correct - nothing is pure! and, no-one in their right mind would use tap water..... so, anything that has been properly sterilised will eventually fail! it is just a matter of when!
A lot of the time the gunk is just algae thats been dyed by the coolant. Remember evertime to have the top of the bottle or res ect ect you contaminate the loop. Thats why you should maintain it. most people will get a good 8 - 12 months with no problems.
