AngryGoldfish
Old N Gold
They're all really nice, but I agree, the Bog Oak is especially nice.
B-Spoke valve pre amp project.
- Thread starter AlienALX
- Start date
AlienALX
Well-known member
I've ordered it
it should really pop with a s**t ton of lacquer and chrome accents Rosewood all the way!
AlienALX
Well-known member
We had rosewood veneer furniture in my house in the 80s. I loved it then, but grew tired of it.
The PSU is here (and tested) as is the volume knob and power plug. Now I need to make a braided cable etc. Oh yeah, got the bog oak too. It's amazing. Looks like it has crystals in it. Very happy with that
Amp will no doubt be a while yet. I do have some yellow LEDs to replace the ones in the finished amp (blue ATM looks daft) so I must get around to that also. I want white ones for the new one
AlienALX
Well-known member
I did strongly consider that. Mostly because the use of it new is illegal IIRC? yeah, just checked it is too. It has to be old/re-purposed which does give it that cool factor.
However, bog, kinda like ice man found after 3000 years is deffo cooler
AlienALX
Well-known member
Got no choice, had to basically buy some parts to make the IO. I got these snide plugs (have used them before they're really nice)
And some Van Damme cable.
It could turn out to be a bit of a blessing in disguise, as it will be far easier to connect.
Last night I pwelded the sides to the front and of course put on the oak.
So the body is well under way
And some Van Damme cable.
It could turn out to be a bit of a blessing in disguise, as it will be far easier to connect.
Last night I pwelded the sides to the front and of course put on the oak.
So the body is well under way
AlienALX
Well-known member
Wow, bog oak is a sod !
Trimming the sides could not have been easier (with the grain). I just used the same trick I used last time. Put the top plate wood side down onto a board and then gently tap with a hammer onto a stanley blade to trim. Got to the back and I had to it really, really hard. Going against the grain is very tough because it is oak. Managed to chip a tiny piece out so have glued in a tiny patch (it's like 2mm).
Not looking forward to taking the valve holes out lmao. I think I might put some lacquer on there first to hold it together and mask it well before using the Dremel with a sanding bit on. Certainly won't be able to scalpel it out tbh.
Trimming the sides could not have been easier (with the grain). I just used the same trick I used last time. Put the top plate wood side down onto a board and then gently tap with a hammer onto a stanley blade to trim. Got to the back and I had to it really, really hard. Going against the grain is very tough because it is oak. Managed to chip a tiny piece out so have glued in a tiny patch (it's like 2mm).
Not looking forward to taking the valve holes out lmao. I think I might put some lacquer on there first to hold it together and mask it well before using the Dremel with a sanding bit on. Certainly won't be able to scalpel it out tbh.
AlienALX
Well-known member
Quick update. Just went out to check the top and it has guzzled down all of the lacquer. Jees.. I put it on super heavy too, almost looked like milk. Will give it a quick sanding later then hit the bugger again..
Good news on the amp also. Seller partial refunded me £8 for the parts I had to buy, yay
Teaser of the body. The back has to be done separately.
That is a coat of white vinyl with sparkle and then a coat of the candy silver gloss. Looks stunning, really pops with the light !
Good news on the amp also. Seller partial refunded me £8 for the parts I had to buy, yay
Teaser of the body. The back has to be done separately.
That is a coat of white vinyl with sparkle and then a coat of the candy silver gloss. Looks stunning, really pops with the light !
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AngryGoldfish
Old N Gold
That's good of him.
AlienALX
Well-known member
Yeah I wasn't expecting it at all tbh. Usually they just ignore you for weeks then speak right at the time they have to. God that pees me off !
AlienALX
Well-known member
OK so my plan worked. I put on five coats of clear throughout the day yesterday and wanted to pounce before it had gone hard. Three of those coats (and trust me, they were thick, as thick as I dared, who dares wins, who loses does lots of sanding ) just soaked into the oak. So I masked it off earlier and got on the Dremel. Came out lovely. Tape did imprint ever so slightly but a couple more coats of clear soon made that vanish. It's now had about 7-8 coats. All very heavy.
That bog oak really is quite glorious tbh. I will now let it harden for a few days, then paint the insides of the valve openings and the edges etc. Then I need to cover the bottom in the met silver.
Amazing how such a tiny thing takes so much work. Well worth it though. I never got any decent glory pics of the MK1 but trust me, it is flawless. Looks absolutely amazing.
) just soaked into the oak. So I masked it off earlier and got on the Dremel. Came out lovely. Tape did imprint ever so slightly but a couple more coats of clear soon made that vanish. It's now had about 7-8 coats. All very heavy.
That bog oak really is quite glorious tbh. I will now let it harden for a few days, then paint the insides of the valve openings and the edges etc. Then I need to cover the bottom in the met silver.
Amazing how such a tiny thing takes so much work. Well worth it though. I never got any decent glory pics of the MK1 but trust me, it is flawless. Looks absolutely amazing.
AngryGoldfish
Old N Gold
That came out lovely. The shine doesn't take away from the grain of the wood. Nice.
AlienALX
Well-known member
Nope. If anything the wood is almost dormant until you lacquer the crap out of it and then WHAM you can see all of the crystallised bits etc. Just need to smooth the edges off a little before I paint in the holes etc. It's a very difficult wood to work with because it's rock hard like oak but very brittle.
I got the female plugs in today. No RCA cable yet but hopefully that should come Monday and I can run it in with some max killahertz lol
