Tha Leviathan
- Thread starter JayCobs
- Start date
RickPlaysWarr
New member
Really awesome power cord. Industrial and massive but in a good way.
Would love a step by step on what you got and how you put it together
--Rick--
Would love a step by step on what you got and how you put it together
--Rick--
JayCobs
New member
Not a problem. I will put one together when I get home.
JayCobs
New member
Power Cord Awesomeness 101
This, by NO means is the "official" way to go about this. However, this IS the way I went about it with excellent results.
I used 5 feet of 12 AWG 3 core cable, heat shrink, 12mm sleeve, IEC and plug connectors from Sonarquest. The IEC and plug connectors are TOTALLY up to you. Be sure that the connectors are compatible with the gauge of wire for the housing AND terminals inside. After weeks of searching online I found these Sonarquest connectors. They look similar to the ones used in my previously pictured cord. Those connectors are Gaofei JSR50 & 50M Rhodium Plated Hi-End US Male & Female AC Plug. BE SURE you are purchasing the correct format for your country!
Some tools you will need [heat gun not pictured]
Use a blade of your choice to cut ONLY the jacket of the cable. Make sure not to go deep enough to cut the 3 wires on the inside. This cable has a thick jacket and going to deep was not an issue.
It should look like this. Pull the cut portion off and discard unless you need it for witchcraft.
Next you will have this:
Inspect the terminals if possible for your connectors. Some connectors are clear like the ones I use here. You can get a good idea of how much to strip and seat inside the terminals securely.
A mistake I made a lot was installing the end BEFORE slipping the housing on the cord FIRST. Make sure you slip the housing on the cord FIRST. Saves much frustration! :cussing:
Here the connector is clear. This visibility helps to ensure a great connection.
Slide the housing down, tighten all the screws, and done. The screws do not have to be torqued down; be mindful of this.
Repeat for the opposite end. Make sure the SAME WIRE connects to the SAME TERMINALS. It is extremely easy to monitor this with the cord I used due to each wire being a different color. The green wire does not HAVE to be the ground/earth. It DOES need to meet the SAME terminal on each connector. After completing the opposite end, test the cord. If it works, then it's sleevin' time! If no dice, make sure to extinguish any fires and check your work.
Disconnect the IEC and plug ends. It is time to make this cord famous! I can't stress this enough, and it's only because I kept making this mistake. Slip everything on the cord FIRST.
Wrap electrical tape or a squid carcass around the stripped ends to avoid snagging when slipping the cord into its new black and silver dress.
Start sleevin'! It may help to singe the sleeve ends to prevent them from unraveling during installation. If you take your time it may not be necessary.
Once that is done snip the sleeve to the proper length. Position the heat shrink as shown and hit that baby with the heat gun. The heat gun also melted the sleeve a little, and I wonder if I needed the shrink at all?
Repeat on the opposite end. If the connector housings are not on the cord as shown PUT THEM ON NOW! Then, install both connectors.
Attach the connector housings again. Tighten all the screws. Now your cord is ready for the red carpet!
Extras...
Some, maybe all connectors come with a spacer you can install if the cord outside diameter you are using does not fully fill the entrance to the connector housing. There are a couple screws on the side of the housing that when tightened clamp down on the cord. This pic shows that clamp on the inside of the housing. I find that if you want the cord centered out the back of the housing when you tighten these screws you must use the spacer. Otherwise the cord will look stuck to one side of the housing. This may not be an issue for most, but is a major aesthetic blemish for me. This clamp is a safety device for humans that do not wish to grasp the lovely housing when disconnecting the cord and prefer to risk electrocution by ignorantly yanking the cord itself.
There you have it ladys and gents. The cord I assembled for my build totaled close to 60.00 USD minus shipping. Mind you the connectors cost about 50.00 USD by themselves. When you are building the last case you will ever need it is worth it!
Good luck to you all!!!
Stay tuned.
This, by NO means is the "official" way to go about this. However, this IS the way I went about it with excellent results.
I used 5 feet of 12 AWG 3 core cable, heat shrink, 12mm sleeve, IEC and plug connectors from Sonarquest. The IEC and plug connectors are TOTALLY up to you. Be sure that the connectors are compatible with the gauge of wire for the housing AND terminals inside. After weeks of searching online I found these Sonarquest connectors. They look similar to the ones used in my previously pictured cord. Those connectors are Gaofei JSR50 & 50M Rhodium Plated Hi-End US Male & Female AC Plug. BE SURE you are purchasing the correct format for your country!
Some tools you will need [heat gun not pictured]
Use a blade of your choice to cut ONLY the jacket of the cable. Make sure not to go deep enough to cut the 3 wires on the inside. This cable has a thick jacket and going to deep was not an issue.
It should look like this. Pull the cut portion off and discard unless you need it for witchcraft.
Next you will have this:
Inspect the terminals if possible for your connectors. Some connectors are clear like the ones I use here. You can get a good idea of how much to strip and seat inside the terminals securely.
A mistake I made a lot was installing the end BEFORE slipping the housing on the cord FIRST. Make sure you slip the housing on the cord FIRST. Saves much frustration! :cussing:
Here the connector is clear. This visibility helps to ensure a great connection.
Slide the housing down, tighten all the screws, and done. The screws do not have to be torqued down; be mindful of this.
Repeat for the opposite end. Make sure the SAME WIRE connects to the SAME TERMINALS. It is extremely easy to monitor this with the cord I used due to each wire being a different color. The green wire does not HAVE to be the ground/earth. It DOES need to meet the SAME terminal on each connector. After completing the opposite end, test the cord. If it works, then it's sleevin' time! If no dice, make sure to extinguish any fires and check your work.
Disconnect the IEC and plug ends. It is time to make this cord famous! I can't stress this enough, and it's only because I kept making this mistake. Slip everything on the cord FIRST.
Wrap electrical tape or a squid carcass around the stripped ends to avoid snagging when slipping the cord into its new black and silver dress.
Start sleevin'! It may help to singe the sleeve ends to prevent them from unraveling during installation. If you take your time it may not be necessary.
Once that is done snip the sleeve to the proper length. Position the heat shrink as shown and hit that baby with the heat gun. The heat gun also melted the sleeve a little, and I wonder if I needed the shrink at all?
Repeat on the opposite end. If the connector housings are not on the cord as shown PUT THEM ON NOW! Then, install both connectors.
Attach the connector housings again. Tighten all the screws. Now your cord is ready for the red carpet!
Extras...
Some, maybe all connectors come with a spacer you can install if the cord outside diameter you are using does not fully fill the entrance to the connector housing. There are a couple screws on the side of the housing that when tightened clamp down on the cord. This pic shows that clamp on the inside of the housing. I find that if you want the cord centered out the back of the housing when you tighten these screws you must use the spacer. Otherwise the cord will look stuck to one side of the housing. This may not be an issue for most, but is a major aesthetic blemish for me. This clamp is a safety device for humans that do not wish to grasp the lovely housing when disconnecting the cord and prefer to risk electrocution by ignorantly yanking the cord itself.
There you have it ladys and gents. The cord I assembled for my build totaled close to 60.00 USD minus shipping. Mind you the connectors cost about 50.00 USD by themselves. When you are building the last case you will ever need it is worth it!
Good luck to you all!!!
Stay tuned.
Sir-Weasel
New member
that's got to be one of the best looking backplates i've ever seen
:drool::drool::drool:
good job bro and keep the updates coming
:drool::drool::drool:
good job bro and keep the updates coming
JayCobs
New member
Enough with the noise already!!!
So....
I was sick and tired of listening to my back-up Radeon HD 6770s in Crossfire SCREAMING AT ME!! It's super hot right now on the block and these things are about to melt. Last Saturday was the start of NCAAF season. Watching 4 - 6 games simultaneously on these cards beat them within an inch of their life. This morning, Monday, I realized that my build is far from finished. BUT, my GPU back plates are finished. So....
I decided to go a different route [pun intended] with the GPU link. Tell me what y'all think.
Stay tuned...
So....
I was sick and tired of listening to my back-up Radeon HD 6770s in Crossfire SCREAMING AT ME!! It's super hot right now on the block and these things are about to melt. Last Saturday was the start of NCAAF season. Watching 4 - 6 games simultaneously on these cards beat them within an inch of their life. This morning, Monday, I realized that my build is far from finished. BUT, my GPU back plates are finished. So....
I decided to go a different route [pun intended] with the GPU link. Tell me what y'all think.
Stay tuned...
JayCobs
New member
Nice! Thanks for the guide on the power cable btwI'll have to see what types are available in this country.
Thanks for stopping by!!
JayCobs
New member
The heat is gon'!!
Got some work done peeps!!!
My case design will be closed - open, simultaneously. The gaps will be filled with a fine mesh. I might paint the mesh black to match the final exterior color, or leave it "unfinished" for some pop. Who knows...
The real magic will occur once I have constructed and fitted the back and front side panels.
I became very anxious and painted the mid-plate. I also installed some grommets from my severely cannibalized Corsair 800D.
This is the box that will hide the madness! The PSU and most of the wiring will originate from here. This looks a helluvalot better than the aluminum wall I used previously.
The rear panel has a larger gap than the front panel for a reason. I want my case to look like a big metal box. I have scrapped the plan for the PSU cable to protrude from the front. I have a VERY awesome idea for that I will reveal later in the build log. The huge gap is to allow room for the I/O wiring to slide down the back of the case, then out the bottom: unseen. The rear panel is fixed which means I will need to make sure I have plenty of extensions for the USB ports.
As mentioned the rear panel is fixed. The remaining 4 panels will have notches cut in them like so:
This allows me to lift the panels up and out from the case. This also preserves the "no-screw-straight-box" look as well. I got the idea looking at the back of a smoke detector.
Stay tuned...
Got some work done peeps!!!
My case design will be closed - open, simultaneously. The gaps will be filled with a fine mesh. I might paint the mesh black to match the final exterior color, or leave it "unfinished" for some pop. Who knows...
The real magic will occur once I have constructed and fitted the back and front side panels.
I became very anxious and painted the mid-plate. I also installed some grommets from my severely cannibalized Corsair 800D.
This is the box that will hide the madness! The PSU and most of the wiring will originate from here. This looks a helluvalot better than the aluminum wall I used previously.
The rear panel has a larger gap than the front panel for a reason. I want my case to look like a big metal box. I have scrapped the plan for the PSU cable to protrude from the front. I have a VERY awesome idea for that I will reveal later in the build log. The huge gap is to allow room for the I/O wiring to slide down the back of the case, then out the bottom: unseen. The rear panel is fixed which means I will need to make sure I have plenty of extensions for the USB ports.
As mentioned the rear panel is fixed. The remaining 4 panels will have notches cut in them like so:
This allows me to lift the panels up and out from the case. This also preserves the "no-screw-straight-box" look as well. I got the idea looking at the back of a smoke detector.
Stay tuned...
Thelosouvlakia
Classy-Fried-Chicken
This puts modding to shame
