Gamepro105
New member
I love the green and black! ive never thought about doing a green build before but it looks awesome !
NZXT Switch 810 - Watercooled
- Thread starter sn8kedr
- Start date
sn8kedr
New member
That green looks sweeeeeeeeeeet!
Thanks lads - I definitely wanted to get the green to pop in this build. Have since covered up the red and orange mobo led's too so lighting is a little cleaner.
sn8kedr
New member
Hey mate - the pump is D5 Vario (Koolance branded) and the res is the EK Multioption RES X2 - 250 Advanced (coupled with the EK D5 X-Rest Top).
Basically to attach the res/pump to the case I drilled 2 holes in the inner back panel to align with the spacing's on the mounting bracket that came with the Res Top. Also added a bit of thick double sided tape for added stability (just because I swapped out the stock 140 tube res that came with the res top initially with the 250 multioption).
In the switch there are a few existing holes that almost matched up with the mounting bracket but not quite.
Happy to help mate.
Honestly mate, that was life helping information. I just realised I saw your videos on youtube when I saw your name xD. At the minute i'm planning a 900D green and black watercooled build I have almost all the components bar the actually case and watercooling kit. If I was planning to water cool an I7 processor and a gtx 690 in the future case 900D which supports almost any rad what do you think I should get parts wise? Its a g1 sniper 3 motherboard btw and what are your thoughts on tubing brands? i heard durelene doesn't cloud?
sn8kedr
New member
Wow that sounds like a monster build mate - kudos
As for the watercooling gear there are sooooo many options now and it really comes down to your personal taste. There are a couple of things I would recommend though.
Radiators: Given your case option I would be thinking a 360mmx60mm rad in the roof and similar in the bottom (maybe even a 480mm in the bottom although it wouldn't be needed for what your looking to cool). I personally prefer XSPC RX series rads however Tom has just done a review on the Alphacool Monsta 360 rads which look nothing short of epic http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqdWv0ZWuo4&feature=share&list=UU_SN80_V2GymyCWM2oTYTeg
Pump:Personally, the D5 is my only suggestion, in particular the D5 vario which has RPM toggles on the bottom (notches 1-5, 1 being the lowest and 5 the highest). This lets you have complete control on pump speed vs noise (should you want super silent). I have mine set to 3 keeping things frosty but quiet too
Reservoir:This gets a little more tricky, for me it really comes down to aesthetics because your res wont provide any additional cooling head room. Personally I prefer the tube res options so it becomes more of a feature in your build. I would want to go with a D5 and something like a BITSPOWER D5 mod kit and a PHOBYA Balancer 250 res (or something similar).
Blocks and Fittings:These are the bits that will start to exponentially increase your cost but will add a fart load of bling to your build. I personally prefer standard 1/2" barb fittings and 7/16" ID tubing however there are the compression barbs but I find them to be a bit on the bulky side. I also recommend the BITSPOWER silver shining fittings - they are the ones in my build and come up pretty nice. Blocks I've used XSPC and Koolance, currently using Koolance and the quality on both the CPU360 and the 680 block are just incredible. However the XSPC blocks do give you some nice lighting options.
Wow - that was a lot longer than I though it was going to be. Again these are just my personal opinions and I am positive there will be others who will recommend different options. Apologies if this is all stuff you already know too!
As for tubing, I haven't really experimented with many other than PrimoChills Primoflex and Masterkleer. I found that the primoflex will cloud over time (at least using dye - not sure about just on distilled too but I always use dye anyways) where as the Masterkleer tended to hold for a good while longer before slight discoloration of the tubing. The Masterkleer though wasn't quite as flexible as the primoflex though. If you find one that doesn't cloud though let me know
Hope this helps mate.
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Hatdamn that was informative. I'll keep you updated if I start a build log 
and thank you for your help, you've been nothing but godlike. How long before you did your first tube change due to clouding with the dye? And also any extra things I should buy to prepare myself for watercooling/pump fitting/making sure everything works first time?
Thanks again mate
and thank you for your help, you've been nothing but godlike. How long before you did your first tube change due to clouding with the dye? And also any extra things I should buy to prepare myself for watercooling/pump fitting/making sure everything works first time?Thanks again mate
sn8kedr
New member
Hatdamn that was informative. I'll keep you updated if I start a build log
Thanks again mate
I changed the tubing after about 4 months just for maintenance and to clean out all the blocks and rads. It wasn't until I took a look at the tubing after it had been completely drained that I could see some staining and cloudiness. It wasn't particularly noticeable before hand though so just something to keep in mind when maintaining the loop. It's also worth noting the cloudiness was NOT in the res, just in the tubing so it was purely discoloration of the primoflex tubing. Now I'm using the masterkleer and 3 months in I have drained the loop and things look good. Just keep an eye on it
Here's a few tips:
*I recommend grabbing some tube cutters to give you a straight cut when your getting your tubing to length - helps when it comes to getting everything clean and lined up with your fittings. Also, when is comes to cutting length always measure twice, and cut the lengths with a bit of give (an extra cm or so). You can always shorten as required.
*Make sure your using a silver kill coil or some kind of biocide (sometimes this will be included in your dye so make sure you check it out) in your loop to prevent any fungal build up (this is when you notice you res getting cloudy).
*Get yourself a 24pin ATX Bridge Tool - this will allow you to 'short' your PSU so that you can provide power to the pump only. This way you wont have any power running to any of your components and you can have the PSU sitting outside your case for your first leek test. Prevents a lot of potential issues should you spring a leek
*When you are tightening your fittings make sure you don't over tighten things - you don't want to put too much pressure on the seals and break them
General rule of thumb is finger tighten the barbs with maybe 1 or 2 more turns with the pliers. *Plan your loop thoroughly before hand so you have all the gear you'll want - keep in mind how you want it to look and think about what kind of fittings you will want to use. I use a combination of 45 and 90 degree fittings + standard straight barbs. This can change the amount of tubing you use dramatically and improve aesthetics imo.
There are probably some other things but off the top of my head that's the main things I reckon to keep in mind.
Oh yeah, and BUILD LOG FTW! Do it mate
sn8kedr
New member
No worries.
For my build I used clear tubing with Mayhems UV Green dye and Mayhems Biocide. This was a while ago though and you can now get Mayhems X1 which has the biocide mixed in already.
Comes in concentrate or premix form - I prefer concentrate so you can tinker with your colors a bit more easily. I also filled the loop completely first and then started adding the dye to the res - it lets you get your color exactly how you want it that way. Plus it looks cool to watch it circulate through
