My god what have i done to my gtx 780 ti?! Help

Ok now i'm beginning to understand where the Poseidon fits in the graphics card market.

Just accept you truly noobed it sell the cooler and card as spares and find a better solution that's actually compatible. I will help you out and buy the EVGA fans off the ACX cooler if you want. It's a sad day for hardware :(

JR

Someone might buy the card as art. ^_^
 
so the cold plate is too large and is sitting on the black heatsink allowing you to tighten firmly thinking it was installed correctly. damn thats unfortunate buddy. i would say that your kraken is still perfectly fine for future use but i would look into alternative methods of cooling your card if you insist on wc mate. like a universal block. like said before take this as experience never do it again. we all made mistakes. i forgot to check all my fittings were tight before i started leak testing. it was like blastoise appeared and used hydropump. the pc was wet and my pants were too
 
so the cold plate is too large and is sitting on the black heatsink allowing you to tighten firmly thinking it was installed correctly. damn thats unfortunate buddy. i would say that your kraken is still perfectly fine for future use but i would look into alternative methods of cooling your card if you insist on wc mate. like a universal block. like said before take this as experience never do it again. we all made mistakes. i forgot to check all my fittings were tight before i started leak testing. it was like blastoise appeared and used hydropump. the pc was wet and my pants were too

Great comment. :lol:
 
lol thanks for the love guys, but ive got two options, install the g10 x40 combo on the new card when my heatsinks for the vrm and vram arrive all without acx cooler plate, no modding required, other ppl have done this with this card, or dremel that old plate which i like the sound of and use that, the only issue was the block lets call it now being allowed the full pressure on the GPU, the only thing that bugs me is the fact that the old TIM is so caked or was on the last gpu, wtf would be the best way of cleaning it, i wouldnt dare touch it with those wet and dry cloths from the pix...

how would you have cleaned the caked TIM guys?

also its awesome to know i should tint, i wanted to but since no one anywhere in all the googling i did regarding g10 installations on gtx 780s or not mentioned any tinting, and the 3 solid youtubers that put up installation/guide/review videos did no tinting and hardly mentioned the TIM setup they did.... cuz it wasnt rly the focus of the video, but still if ur gonna do an install guide video, u think mentioning info about the TIM and tinting the surfaces would be a big part...


Extra info on the theory behind the whole build and why i chose to water cool the gpus:
The reason for wanting to water cool and not using the acx was just to get a dead silent mad performance build going, its 2 bottom x40 kraken intakes front intake across the bottom intake, top exhaust with a corsair h110 rear exhaust and a front intake for the 5.25 drive bay which has a 3 to 4 hdd adatpter in it, that combined with an adjustable fan inside the nzxt switch 810 case
The plan was to then make the front exhaust the hdd drive fan exhausting out the front and with no hot air coming from the rear of the case thanks to my ax1200i i could make the rear 140mm an intake, make the h110 an intake, and throw on my lian li air duct for "better cooling for CPU" i could direct that 140s air right at the drives along with the intakes on the top to that drive bays exhaust so least resistance for the most part shortest distance traveled fan setup, everything set super low and it would be dead silent without being in a sound dampening case since im keeping the build under 75lbs due to a shelf i keep it on thats at a 80+ lb limit lets say


i think the main slip up was with the plate, seeing the AS5 spread nicely i had the setup fine without the plate, but since vram and vrm was keeping the card a lil on the hot side and i had no heatsinks at the time i figured the plate would suffice, after seeing the thermal paste grain of rice method for the PK3 thermal compound spread out i figured i just didnt put enough, followed the tip of a fellow overclock3d member and used the line method figuring if it caked id be safe but thats where the plate got in the way and when trying to run 3dmark i fried it

as5 without vram n vrm cooling i was at a stable 40C according to evga precision X, with the plate and that terrible contact i was down to 31-32C allbeit idle so clearly i needed the heatsinks and the proper mounting depending on how they were combo'd up i should have seen similar temps to the ACX till it was broken in then itd be lower temps with lower rpm on the fans for the rads
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This just broke my heart :(
Sorry to hear that inspire, imagine how i feel lol... at least i learned something, its hard when you suffer from insomnia fibromyalgia a handful of other BS and thus your only means to learn how to do something is to just dive in head first i run into plenty of problems. But as luck may have me on the bad side with some projects, im blessed with good luck in the sense of funds, i inherited some property and im busting my a** dealing with all kinds of BS from lawyers wanting money i dont owe them for screwing me over and the government wanting 1.5m usd as inheritance tax to keep it simple thanks to a very nicely sociopathic trustee inflating properties and doing a lot of underhanded stuff. Sorry its a bit much i know, i just dont like ppl thinking i have it easy im earning this income and everythings is slowly getting better and easier =) so again the good luck.

You're encouraging illegal behaviour...

Consider this a warning, unless you're joking..

@OP: DO NOT stick it back together and send it back... serious fraud if you do... EVGA aren't stupid and will see the damage on the gpu, the surrounding components AND the metal bracket, it won't take much to figure it out.


Ontopic: The cooler looks fine, but I still wouldn't risk putting it any where near your other GPU, and I wouldn't cut the metal bits off either. It's not compatible without modification and those modifications are going to break your other card.

Now to be clear i will not try n RMA this, this thing is worth so much and i could save up to get another, and having 2 is so over the top as it is. I had some one tell me to return a product i purchased that was a recommendation because this person recommended the wrong part telling me to lie and say it was broken return it and get the right part. *looks around to see if its safe* gotta be cryptic there, but to be clear did not take the shady route.
 
I have to commend you on keeping so calm on toasting over £500 worth of GPU.

As for RMA'ing it, you'll have it sent straight back to and charged for the privilege. They will notice that the original cooler doesn't have the arcing and residues from it present.

If it were a reference cooler I'd have bought it from you, I keep an eye on ebay for these for a project I'm thinking of. Anyway, stick it on ebay with a clear description stating that it's fucked beyond repair and you may still get £100 for it; I've seen faulty titans go for £200!

I wonder if you were completely upfront to EVGA about it and asked them if it could be repaired (dubious), how much it would cost.
 
ummm I still don't know what went wrong as far as I've gathered he put the watercooler on and something blew. The card should have a kill switch linked to thermal temps correct? Is it possible that the card was a bad card or am I missing something. Cards don't just melt themselves... what are they rated for 100+ degrees?

Okay so did you confirm that your card worked before you pulled it apart?
 
Last edited:
I think the GPU was perhaps still wet from the wipes? Paste being conductive, or from being applied like it was polyfiller.

What's this "tinting" anyway? I've never heard of such a thing. Tinning wire with solder yes...
 
Non alcoholic lint free wet and dry cloth combined with arcticleans TIM removing solution and purifying solution, mostly using those liquids with the dry cloths the wet ones would be used for just a quick initial wipe to remove a majority of any initial TIM I'm removing from a surface.

Here's the things that we're not good (still I wondered why it didn't go kill switch, temps were at 32-40C then it all just went to hell when I smelled burnt electronics) so initially not enough contact and or pressure between the g10s waterblock/pump/heatsink part and the gpu itself. Combine that with left over TIM that I didn't know how to remove without cutting up lint free cloths on those little capacitors, by the way can someone tell me what exactly those are the things lining the PCB valley between the gpu and the metal square that surrounds the GPU?

I thought about calling up EVGA and seeing if I could pay for a repair I did that with sony for my 1st gen PS3 just so it could YLOD on me just days after the 30 day factory repair warranty :(

So my guess is it got too hot and fibers from the cloths somehow got caught on those tiny lil' things that melted or possibly that I didn't let it fully dry after cleaning prepping and reassembling it, but I highly doubt that considering it had like a day without being touched while I waited for the heatsinks to arrive by mail which I applied to the ACX cooler's base plate.

Take a close look at one of the two up close corner pictures of the meltyness and you can see one of the 4 posts the parts that the ACX heatsink screws into for the gpu, you can see some of the black anodizing or whatever has been worn away. That's what prevented the heatsink from the g10 to make full/proper contact.

If u guys were me and we're prepping the gpu and g10 surfaces to apply your chosen TIM, how would you have cleaned the parts around the gpu itself that was caked in old TIM, cloths are no good since they can easily get caught and you'll get fibers on those things like I'm guessing I did?
 
Last edited:
Okay this is what I suggest you do.

Call up EVGA, email or search for the correct contact details of who ever you need to send these pictures through to.

Send these pictures through: So they can see the damage on the cooler and the chip.

http://s8.photobucket.com/user/sparktite/media/wtf gtx 780 ti g10 fail/DSC00857_zpsfff0bfda.jpg.html

http://s8.photobucket.com/user/sparktite/media/wtf gtx 780 ti g10 fail/DSC00863_zps20797cba.jpg.html

After that they'll probably make a decision of whether or not it's yours or their fault and then you can progress and ask how much it would cost to have the card repaired. Honestly it can't be more than the cost of a new card. EVGA have the best customer service in the world goodluck.
 
You're encouraging illegal behaviour...

Consider this a warning, unless you're joking..

@OP: DO NOT stick it back together and send it back... serious fraud if you do... EVGA aren't stupid and will see the damage on the gpu, the surrounding components AND the metal bracket, it won't take much to figure it out.

Quote from a GPU vendor "Even if you damaged the card yourself, RMA it, if it is deemed the issue was caused by yourself, we will let you and offer you a chargeable repair".

It is not committing fraud by sending it back, don't be ridiculous. It does not anywhere explicitly state that for an RMA the goods must not be broken by the consumer but instead must be faulty of their own accord.

If a GPU vendor doesn't want to fix it, they won't. I was told the amount of RMA'd cards due to user error are quite small and as such they will sometimes just overlook the less serious issues.

Just for reference, I also spoke to Asus about this, now I usually don't get on with their RMA process but they replaced a broken Titan without question even knowing I had modded the BIOS.

I don't post here often but I don't really think much of the threatening tone you take.

TL;DR Even if OP knows he did the damage, sending a card back for RMA is not fraud - GPU vendors offer repair services within the RMA procedure.
 
Have you thought about contacting NZXT about the Kraken and showing them exactly what happened. After all you were using that for it's intended purpose so although it's undamaged they may have some sympathy or at least they will learn about some compatibility issues and how it can't be installed.

I think a full OC3D GPU waterblock installation video/guide would be fantastic to inspire confidence with everybody right now.

JR
 
Have you thought about contacting NZXT about the Kraken and showing them exactly what happened. After all you were using that for it's intended purpose so although it's undamaged they may have some sympathy or at least they will learn about some compatibility issues and how it can't be installed.

I think a full OC3D GPU waterblock installation video/guide would be fantastic to inspire confidence with everybody right now.

JR

We cant do them for every product / card variation. TBH a lot of it is common sense and double checking things. From looking at the paste in the photo it should have been obvious it wasnt fitted properly - Im also assuming temps were not monitored after it was fitted
 
We cant do them for every product / card variation. TBH a lot of it is common sense and double checking things. From looking at the paste in the photo it should have been obvious it wasnt fitted properly - Im also assuming temps were not monitored after it was fitted

No obviously that would be nuts! Maybe it would be a nice video for RKJ to do, just hearing a straight up OC3D opinion on the matter of prepping, applying TIM, tinting and testing would be good. A lot of cards going under-water at the moment are going to be a Titan descendant though (780, 780Ti, BE)? Nearly everything is common sense and if you have any paying close attention to somebody else doing it right in the first place is always good.

JR
 
Back
Top