Intel burn stress testing.. failure fault?

Hi Nathn,

I'd say you need more vCore. IBT is very very hard and pushes your CPU further than pretty much anything else. I've had overclocks that are 24hr Prime stable that fall over within a few seconds of running IBT.

Personally, I use IBT as a lazy stability test as things will fail very quickly. Also, it's a really good test of your cooling solution as IBT generates a lot of heat as you'd expect. My aim is to ensure a stable temp, so I don't get creep over time.

Before I used IBT to test my overclocks - just used Prime and the like - I'd still get the odd crash/freeze in certain demanding games at CPU load peaks. Now, everything plays just great.

One additional tip I will give however... You system may be perfectly stable when you're stressing with ALL cores loaded, however if you load just one or two (use affinity and IBTs thread options) you may be unstable. I've seen this on my system and several others now, usually a tad more vCore (if you have the headroom) or more aggressive vDroop control can help here.

Good Luck.

Scoob.
 
whats the vDroop control? still learning.

Cheers

Ok, vDroop is what happens to the vCore when the CPU is under load. vDrop is something else...

Say for example your set your vCore to 1.25v yet once in windows it's reported as 1.20v - assuming your CPU hasn't gone into an idle state that 0.05v is your vDrop - i.e. the drop from what you set to what you actually get. A difference is fairly normal.

vDroop is a little different. Say you've got 1.25v set again, and have 1.20v in windows (again, CPU NOT idle) yet when you run prime or IBT your vCore reports 1.15v - this is vDroop, it's the voltage dropping as the CPU draws more current.

The vDroop setting on your motherboard (it has other names) is designed to compensate for this droop in voltage to help keep things stable.

This is a very much off the top of my head description. May I suggest that you do some reseach / reading yourself into vDroop and overclocking in general - it will very much help you in the long run. You will be more successful in your overclocking, as likely keep your CPU alive longer lol.

There's lots and lots of informatiion here, have a good dig around. Any specific guides for your particular motherboard and CPU would be most helpful. It's not really possible to summarise eveything in one post. Plus different motherboards can call things different names as well as react differently to the settings you make.

As an example I set my vCore to be 0.050v OVER the default (auto) setting for a given multiplier. As my CPU goes from 16x (idle) to 45x (my overclock) it's in effect adding that 0.050v to each "step". So, before I overclocked my IDLE vCore at 1.6ghz (16x) was 0.900v, now it's 0.950v. This is known, on my motherboard, as the "offset" method of changing vCore. It's good cos it still allows a safe idle, while giving me the vCore I need at higher multi's. Add to this my vDroop control to ensure this is maintained when the CPU is under load...well, you can see how these things build up.

One other way would be to just set my vCore to 1.4v, my multi to 45 and NEVER allow my CPU to idle...for some this gives better stability, but the cpu is clocked up at all times, which I don't like.

Please, do read all you can, I'm hardly scratching the surface here.

Good luck.

Scoob.
 
Update.. It seems like there was a fault in the memory, I now have 2X4gig put in and it passed memtest. I then ran intel burn on maximum and it passed aswell!. I tried to run intel burn on maximum and then it's extreme setting (right clicking on start) but it froze up. Could this be because I only have 8gig of memory on the computer? or because I have air cooling with a 4.5ghz @ 1.4V overclock? when passed my maximum intel burn test the temps got as high as 75deg.
 
Hi Nathn,

That would explain things.

Needing as much as 1.4v to get an IBT stable (mostly) at 4.5ghz on a 2600k is slightly surprising though. My 2500k (so, technically more likely to be a worse binned part) would hit 4.5ghz just by setting the multi to 45. Ok, it wasn't quite stable but a few vCore tweaks saw me there - that's where I am now. I did go to 4.6 but it required a lot more vCore and other tweaks too...I also did 4.8 and 5.0 - but things got way too toasty for me as I only have the basic Antec Kuhler 620. Plus 5.0 was unstable and was pushing me over 1.4v under load.

I'd say 75c isn't a bad temp on air, considering how hard IBT is. However my own little rule is "never above 70c in IBT" this means my CPU only ever gets into the low-to-md 60's in normal gaming use with CPU intensive titles or light benching (like Prime - it IS light vs. IBT!) That said I've not run IBT yet this summer, so doubtless it'd break my own rule today, being hot and humid as it is.

Could you document what settings you have changed exactly - it'd give us a better idea of where there might be room to make improvements. Also, I assume that 1.4v is what your CPU shows under load during IBT, you've not set that in the BIOS of course. My advice, when starting out, is only change ONE thing at a time. It can be frustrating but at least you know which change exactly made the difference.

I usually just bump the multi and bench / IBT until I get instabilities, then bump the vCore offset up a notch and repeat. You'll likely get to a point where vCore has to jump a lot to gain stability, this is when changing other settings (such as the vDroop stuff) can really being to help - careful though, as if you've already bumped the vCore then you increase the vDroop compensation, your vCore under load might increase more than you bargained. I myself reduced the vCore slightly when going over 4.6ghz as the vDroop compensation gave the CPU what it needed at a more moddest vCore. All motherboards / CPUs are different of course.

I would suggest, if your motherboard supports it, that you look at the offset vCore method - it seemed to give much more stable results for me and my 2500k doesn't appear to be one of the better ones, needing more vCore than most.

Can't access my Gamer at the moment, else I'd double check all my settings for 4.5ghz. I do believe however that I basically just changed the vCore offset and the multi...

Oh, as I said before, read read read - swot up on this stuff as best you can.

Cheers,

Scoob.
 
I haven't changed any settings actually

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o177/Nathn/IMG_1118.jpg

That's as it is now, I'm finding it difficult to find where my vDroop would be though. :/

Oh right, sorry I assumed you'd tweaked something since the photo. Ok, sounds like you done the same as me then and just changed the multi for the CPU. This is good as it sorta sets your "easy" OC level...i.e. what you can achieve and be almost stable for minimal effort. It's what I did.

Looking (again) at your screen shot, the first entry "Multi-steps load-line" is, I think, your boards equivalent of vDroop. I don't know what your levels mean on your board - you'd need to find that out - but if "1" was the lowest, "6" seems quite high and would explain why you see 1.4v drawn at load. Lowering this should reduce your at load draw, try lowering it in steps. Then you might want to look at your setting your vCore manually.

The "Dynamic Vcore" entry suggest you can apply OFFSET voltage adjustments like my board, so I assume you'd have to set "CPU vCore" to "manual" (if you can) and this would enable the dynamic setting. Adding .010v (or possibly 0.25v is smallest increment on your board) should start seeing some stability improvements.

Note: I am suggesting you change more than ONE thing here overall, but do things one at a time remember.

I think you need to study and understand your boards particular settings more, as I only have experience with a poor MSI board and my current ASUS P8Z68-V Pro with Sandy Bridge chips.

Cheers,

Scoob.
 
I've tried to change my multi step load line and it does nothing for stability. I can't unlock dynamic vcore so I'm assuming its not meant to be touched. Can you think of anything else I should try out to tweak?

Cheers.
 
I assumed because it was freezing it would fail. I waited and it passed on maximum and extreme! although I did want to ask one thing.. majority of the time the computer was freezing up.. having HW monitor open aswell to monitor temps wasn't working because the computer was froze. Little concerned that I wasn't able to see temps all throughout the stress test.

Does Intel burn have a temp it gets to before it's a failed stress test?

Cheers.
 
having freezing issues with extreme setting (right clicking on start) is not really an issue as far as u have no bsods.
I have the same "issue" too but doesn't really worry me cause the test continues without problem ;)
 
Hi,

Running IBT shouldn't "freeze" anything. I too have things like core temp, several gadgets etc. running and, due to the fully loaded cpu, they do update more slowly (generally a slight lag) but they do update.

Additionally you should have the flames animation playing at all times - if that freezes then something is wrong, it should stay animated though it can look a little jumpy. I've never seen the flames freeze and it not be an issue - i..e eventual error/crash.

Usually with IBT - in order of crashyness, if you don't get a Blue Screen you'll get a freeze, if you don't get a freeze you'll get a fail (i.e. cpu starts getting its number wrong) if you don't get a fail...well, then it's all good.

What can happen on the smaller tests is the first few pass before one fails - if your cooling isn't quite up to it temps rise over the course of the test, until your clock isn't stable at that given temperature. Remember, CPU's don't work as well when they get too hot.

Btw: I'm guessing your board works slightly differently to mine or some of your options just aren't available. My first board (MSI) was like that, I just didn't have the settings I needed for stability. The insulting thing was that MSI removed options with subsequent BIOS updates (fairly key ones) so the board became pretty worthless for an overclocker. Considering it was sold as part of an overclocking bundle, well, it was useless. "Luckily" for me it had also developed a fault with the onboard NIC so I managed to return it for a refund and get my ASUS P8Z68-V Pro - which just worked - really, it was a joy to OC.

Cheers,

Scoob.
 
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