i need help with water cooling im new to it all

[TheLastRebel]

well why make the pump work harder by having the flow restricted by how u have the loop ran thats counter productive

 

[NeverBackDown]

It won't work any harder. The pump in the kit has a knob on the back that you switch to tell the pump how fast to well, pump. If you set it at speed 2 out of 5 it will still get the coolant flowing. These pumps are just that strong so need to worry about having it struggle.

 

[TheLastRebel]

ok well how would i go about the drain loop

 

[NeverBackDown]

Take the lowest point in the loop and then drain from there is the fastest way to do it. Others on here know more complex ways of doing things and hopefully they can chime in as well for more options.

 

[TheLastRebel]

thats probly what i was gona do

 

[NeverBackDown]

Cheapest way to do it.

 

[TheLastRebel]

yup take the hose gong to the bottom rad to the res unhook it run it unstill it stops commin out

 

[alpenwasser]

well going both hardware would make the performance lower since it would be cooling with warm liquid instead of liquid cooled in theory

A common misconception.

Check out the first table on this site, specifically, the water in and water out temperatures.

You'll see that the temperature difference between the radiator's inlet and outlet is somewhere
between 0.71 °C and 0.2 °C. Now, considering that a radiator dissipates the heat of all
the components combined, it stands to reason the the temperature increase over each
component must be smaller than the combined temperature drop over the radiator
(example: Say you have a 130 W CPU and a 250 W GPU in your look with one radiator; that
radiator will need to dissipate roughly 380 W of heat and have a certain temperature drop
over its in- and outlet, and that temperature drop will always be larger than the temperature
increases over the CPU and GPU block, respectively).

Bottom line: It does not matter if you have a radiator between each component or just all
the radiators in one sequence of your loop; if those few tenths of a degree of difference will
make or break your setup you should just go ahead and increase your radiator surface.

No not really lol. Water is traveling so fast that heat differences are very small.

And ^this is why the temp differences are so small.

ill probly go from the top rad to the componets to the botom rad ten into the res in theory that would be less work for the pump since alot would be flowing down instead of up

In a closed loop, there is no difference for the pump between flowing up and flowing down.
Think of it this way: You have two tubes, one going up and one going down, and they're
connected at the top and bottom, respectively. If you start pumping the fluid around in
that loop, the bottom end of the fluid which is in the downwards tube will press up against
the bottom part of the fluid which is in the upwards tube (yes, I'm aware this is a very
drastic simplification of fluid dynamics, but I think it gets the point across without being
completely unrelated to reality).

ok well how would i go about the drain loop

For starters, as has been said, pick the lowest point of your loop and make an outlet
there. This can be as simple as a hose you just cut/disconnect (which can get a bit messy),
or something more sophisticated like a T piece with either a quick disconnect or a ball
valve. Google around a bit, I'm sure you'll find some helpful examples with pictures for
inspiration.

Secondly, you need to make sure that there are no dead spots in your loop. By that I mean
something like this:

LOOP COMING FROM TOP
|
|
|    _____
[color=#ff0000]|    |[/color]   |
[color=#ff0000]|____|[/color]   |_____ LOOP CONTINUES
         |
         |
         x DRAIN PORT

In a setup like that, the red part of the loop will not get drained properly (I hope the schematic
is understandable). Note that it can be a bit tricky to get a loop to drain completely, especially
the radiators, so there might still be some fluid left even if you have the drainage system
set up well. Also, it might not always be possible to have no dead spots, depending on
your setup.

 

[Remmy]

ill probly go from the top rad to the componets to the botom rad ten into the res in theory that would be less work for the pump since alot would be flowing down instead of up

It really isn't a factor that needs to be considered, the D5 will handle a loop like this without breaking a sweat on one of the lowest settings.

Flushing the loop with distilled water after draining will get old coolant out anyway and not leave anything unwanted.

 

[Seb.F]

Im a quiet freak anyways matey - Im just stern with my words Im not angry

Understood, we're all friends round these parts anyway

 

[TheLastRebel]

well i know the rage this is gona bring but if i go two rads i realy like the looks of the xscp ax360 but its sad that there 40mm thick and teh xspc ax240

 

[Remmy]

well i know the rage this is gona bring but if i go two rads i realy like the looks of the xscp ax360 but its sad that there 40mm thick and teh xspc ax240

The cooling of a CPU and GPU will be fine on a 360mm*40mm and 240mm*40mm, so get them if you like the look of them so much.

Personally I wouldn't get a radiator that wasn't 60mm if I could help it because I think they look odd in proportion if they're much thinner, but that's probably just because I'm used to seeing 60mm radiators, so it's only a personal preference.

You can easily get two 60mm radiators in the Switch 810, so it would be some potential cooling performance lost, but I doubt it would be hugely significant.

 

[TheLastRebel]

well both rads are like 160 bucks together

 

[Remmy]

well both rads are like 160 bucks together

Are you saying that as in it's good or bad?

 

[TheLastRebel]

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...Aluminum_Enclosure_-_White.html?tl=g30c95s160 and http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...t_info&cPath=59_457_667_671&products_id=38796

 

[Remmy]

Well they look more like $180 together, but still are you pointing it out because it is out of budget or what?

 

[TheLastRebel]

ya im saying i can get both of those with a push pull config cheaper than gettin 2 60mm rads in only a push config

 

[Remmy]

Like I said then, if you prefer them, buy them. It's your choice at the end of the day. I don't think temperature differences will be too significant between those and 60mm radiators, and anyway it's a single CPU and GPU loop so those radiators will handle it fine. You also said you don't plan on CrossfireX so there's probably no extra radiator space needed for the future.

 

[TheLastRebel]

well later im just ona add a second gpu that all and as i said im not ona go crazy over clocking

 

[Remmy]

I'm sure you said you had no plans of doing that when somebody suggested it -.-
As long as you're not overclocking loads it'll be fine then. If you will want to overclock them a lot, I would be swayed back towards 60mm radiators.