GUIDE: Mounting the PA160 in a PC61 - 56k beware

[[O-CuK]Marci]

As we're all aware, the new ThermoChill PA160 rad doesn't conform to previous "standard" dimensions of Built-for-PC Watercooling Radiators. In fact, it's a tad large... HOWEVER... it's size was partially chosen as more or less every case on the market is 160mm wide or more, so either way it should go in one way or another. We decided to demonstrate this by squidging it into a LianLi PC61!!

The PC6x range is one of the nicer compact MidiTower cases... lightweight... not overly expensive, with staggering build quality...

First job, remove the drive cages. The front cage can be removed by undoing the 3x thumbscrews and sliding it out. The bottom drive cage - just drill out the 4x rivets for the tray and out it pops...

Now, on the front panel we have 3x simple cuts. Dremel time. The hole left behind by the removeable HDD Cage is rectangular. Simply follow it's two sides down into the 80mm fan blowholes... and then a single cut across the bottom of the two blowholes to make them into one single hole... cut along the pink lines!

 

[[O-CuK]Marci]

A few minutes of dental-drill noise later...

Now, on the rear of the inner face of the chassis, we unfortunately have some sticky-out items... namely the on/off switch and reser switch, and activity LEDs... this prevents us mounting the PA160 directly onto the case...

But all is not lost... the ThermoChill PA160 mounting kit adds additional mounting points. Combined with an antivibration pump mounting kit, this gives us the standoff we require...

Attach the wings to the sides of the rad, and the antivibe kit to the wings, and then go round the outer edge with the sealing foam provided with the mounting kit. (Note, I did this fairly quickly... it'll look as neat as you choose to make it look...)

Now, to aid mounting, we need some holes. 4mm Drill bit...

From the bottom left mounting hole of the front left 80mm blowhole, measure straight up from the center of the screw hole 149mm, and make a mark, then measure horizontally from this mark 144mm, and make another mark. Drill both these out with a 4mm drill...

 

[[O-CuK]Marci]

Slide the rad into place...

Note the bottom left antivibe mount in the lower left blowhole screwhole, and the lower right mounting point bend to sit on the lip of the righthand blowhole (there isn't enough metal to drill a proper mount here)

Secure with supplied nut and washer... on the bottom right mount, the washer and nut should clamp onto the lip of the blowhole. The radiator is now held in place solidly by 3 corners, and is clamped / resting on the 4th. This is nothing to worry about, and is still a very sturdy mount.

Seal round the edges and any gaps with any leftover sealing foam. Voila! Rad mounted!

 

[[O-CuK]Marci]

Now, you could stop there and call the job done... but the LianLi's front 3.5" blanking panels are attached to the removeable caddy, leaving an unsightly hole...

(Apols for poor pic quality)

There are several options... if you window-modded your case you may have some matching ali left to make a square panel and suspend behind the hole with double-sided tape... or you could cut a square of perforated ali sheet instead...

Personally, I prefer the proper approach. Take the removeable caddy, masking tape around the inner front lip, measure in 12mm (0.5") and draw a line all the way round...

Take your dremel, and cut!

And voila!!

 

[[O-CuK]Marci]

Rad mounted, front blanking plates still attached!

This now leaves you with all 4x 5.25" bays free, for any combination of HDDs (in 5.25" adapters) and CD devices (eg: 2x CD / DVD Drives, 2x HDDs in 3.5 > 5.25 adapters, a Matrix Orbital in front of one HDD, a FanBus in front of the other HDD...

Or, alternately, recycle the bits you have left... the part that you sliced off the removeable HDD cage can be remounted into the bsae of the case with 4x screws, to give you back 3x 3.5" HDD Bays conveniently positioned in an airflow path...

Done n' dusted!

 

[fatty]

Very nicely done mate just one question will it fit up the top of the case or not as I was thinking of mounting a 120.1 up the top or should I try one of those bad boys??

 

[BAcon]

pa160 will be better than a 120.2 with the same fans assuming air flow is not restricted to either

personally id opt for marci's pc65 method with a pa160

nice work marci

 

[Master_G]

Does anyone know how much airflow is restricted when you install it like that? How much do you lose in temps?

G

 

[PHILIP1193]

do you need to use that hugh shroud to get the same performance as a 120.2 marci?

phil

 

[[E-PCs]]

Very nicely done mate just one question will it fit up the top of the case or not as I was thinking of mounting a 120.1 up the top or should I try one of those bad boys??

I was thinking the exact same. Would it fit ?

 

[mightynimrod]

Nice guide matey

Cant wait to get mine in and running.

Tomorrow *hopefully*

 

[BAcon]

do you need to use that hugh shroud to get the same performance as a 120.2 marci?

phil

what i said above about it being better with unrestricted flow is for a shrouded pa160 and a shrouded 120.2

 

[[O-CuK]Marci]

Go to ThermoChill.com, download the 1:1 paper template, hold it up against the top of the case... answer your own question. As it goes, no, it won't, unless you cut away part of the metal that joins CD uprights to the rear of the case. However, drawing air in at the top is far less efficient, and the whole POINT of this rad is to get the most efficiency therefore requiring the least airflow therefore generating the least noise.

Yes, the LianLi frontpanel is restrictive in itself, however there's nothing stopping the end user cutting away excess from the front panel to remove this restriction.... but I ain't prepared to handhold ya every step of the way. Come up with your own way of doing that...

A pump mounting example....

Dual CSP-MAG...

Still plenty of clearance for SLI setup, doesn't foul mobo, retains 3x 3.5" bays. Alternatively, remove 3x 3.5" bays and use D4 / 1250 / 1048 etc.

 

[[O-CuK]Marci]

And that shroud is only 40mm deep... it isn't huge, and yes it's required as that provides the 120mm fan point. Without the shroud, you have no fan fixing point unless you have a 160mm fan and some cable ties. Shrouds always decrease noise and increase / even out performance. Removing it is just daft and defeats the purpose of the rad.

As testing goes, this rad beats a HE120.2, and stands upto a HE120.3 admirably.

See c/w ratings at www.thermochill.com and read the links on the PA160's page over there and all will be revealed.

 

[boardy]

Ok this is stickied, cos I like it and think it'l be really usefull to people (and me )

Cheers for that Marci, brilliant how-to.

Boardy

 

[grungeisdead]

looks really smart, i would loved to have mounted a twin rad in the front of a case, i saw one pc with it done and it looked ace... however i opted for the top of the case to mount mine

 

[unreal]

I was trying to avoid buying water cooling, this might force me to! Looks awesome!

 

[Keith24GB]

You Bet

'']I was thinking the exact same. Would it fit ?

The answer to this question is a definite Yes, I used a Black Ice Pro Rad 120mm in the top of my case. It can only been seen from the top down. And it sucks the warm air out of the case, rather than sucking it into it.

 

[cheap]

top mounted my rad