g0ggles1994
Active member
One does not always water cool because one needs to
Exactly my point
Oh I know, I've got my H100i on with no OC at all
[Build Log] Delilah 2.0
- Thread starter Layer Cakes
- Start date
Oh I know, I've got my H100i on with no OC at all
Layer Cakes
New member
Oh I know, I've got my H100i on with no OC at all
Really? No OC? I'm planning on going all out when this system is done!
RobM
Active member
:d:d:d
g0ggles1994
Active member
Really. I will shamelessly admit.
I will go on record to say it's mainly down to my motherboard. The BIOS is/was terrible. After 9 updates it's still buggy as hell and randomly blue screens when I run my RAM at full speed. If MSI magically fix it or I get a new board I will look at OC'ing again but until then, I just don't trust it. Plus I do like running my system cold and quiet
Layer Cakes
New member
What setup are you running?
g0ggles1994
Active member
Ryzen 1700X with a Gaming Pro Carbon and Corsair Vengeance LED SK Hynix dies. When I first built it last year the BIOS wouldn't even recognise my keyboard (Logitech G510) so I had to find an old cheap and nasty one. Thats just an example of the many problems to show how bad the BIOS was. A lot of problems are fixed but still got quite a few. Like most people RAM speed is the biggest issue. I still occasionally get a cold boot lockup crash or doesn't recognise my GPU, lastly when I did run an OC before, the CPU voltage wouldn't behave. I would have it set to like 1.38-1.4 and it would jump to 1.45 for no reason.
AlienALX
Well-known member
I have not had a 24/7 OC CPU for well over two years. The last one I had was my 3970x, clocked to 4.9ghz on a MSI Big Bang Xpower 2 with over 24 phases (doubled up).
The board failed. I contacted MSI who said they no longer made X79 boards in any shape or form, even though it cost me £360.
Two lessons learned that day.
1. Don't bother overclocking for frames you can't see and
2. Don't bother overclocking because boards fail far quicker.
I know there is no concrete info on what it does to a CPU in the long term but I can absolutely vouch what it does to the motherboard in the short term (it was 11 months old FFS).
So I just don't bother now. Especially as I am running 4k 24/7 now.
The board failed. I contacted MSI who said they no longer made X79 boards in any shape or form, even though it cost me £360.
Two lessons learned that day.
1. Don't bother overclocking for frames you can't see and
2. Don't bother overclocking because boards fail far quicker.
I know there is no concrete info on what it does to a CPU in the long term but I can absolutely vouch what it does to the motherboard in the short term (it was 11 months old FFS).
So I just don't bother now. Especially as I am running 4k 24/7 now.
Kaapstad
Active member
For gaming I would not run a 4 way Titan setup faster than 4.0ghz on the CPU.
@2160p all you need is 60 fps so all the extra GPU grunt can be used to max settings. Sometimes you even get better min/avg/max fps by not running a silly high CPU overclock
One does not always water cool because one needs to
Le Plusse 1
I'd watercool my own chair if I could. Think of the benefits
Winter = kept warm from CPU and GPU heat
Summer = Your own ass can assist with Watt Dissipation
Layer Cakes
New member
Le Plusse 1
I'd watercool my own chair if I could. Think of the benefits
Winter = kept warm from CPU and GPU heat
Summer = Your own ass can assist with Watt Dissipation
love it :lol: maybe have some quick disconnects by the head rest to plug in your water cooled headset?
Layer Cakes
New member
Interesting to read, my Gigabyte x79 UD3 has been rocking anywhere 4.2 to 5.2 for over four years with never even a hiccup. I have been using a a block on the VRMs though,
Layer Cakes
New member
Great looking build lady! Radiator overkill is a personal fetish of mine too.
Thank you! Oh I totally agree. I was considering getting heavier on the dremel to mount a 400x200 rad in the top of the HAF X. When I measured it up though, only way it would have worked is by using an MATX mobo and cutting en entire new IO slightly lower down.
I love those case labs monsters, but I don't think I'd ever have enough hardware to fill one! :lol:
I think the 570X has been a great choice though. I don't think I could have gone for anything much smaller that has support for all the gear I want to chuck in!
Layer Cakes
New member
Keep looking at this and noticing the roughly 100mm of headroom above the res. Should I get an even taller tube just to fill up more space and look a bit more baller? :cool7:
Current res measures 240mm but I reckon I could easily get a 300 in there whilst leaving clearance for fittings.
I did some test fits..
Current res measures 240mm but I reckon I could easily get a 300 in there whilst leaving clearance for fittings.
You'd easily have enough gear to fill a Case Labs box, since the only gear you need is rads.
Just don't try to lift the thing once it's full, it's awful hard on the old back. 4 360s and a 240 hold a decent amount of water! That 570x is a very nice choice, and if you can stuff decent raddage into it, you have a pretty case AND great cooling. I tried that with the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe, but I found a 420 + 360 was not enough for a dual GPU rig.
Layer Cakes
New member
Yeah, I bet that weighs a ton!You'd easily have enough gear to fill a Case Labs box, since the only gear you need is rads.
That 570x is a very nice choice, and if you can stuff decent raddage into it, you have a pretty case AND great cooling. I tried that with the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe, but I found a 420 + 360 was not enough for a dual GPU rig.
The 570 is lovely to build in, at a pretty reasonable price too I think! I'm planning 45mm 360 in the front in push / pull and a standard 240 in the top. Should be enough I think, if not, I can always add another 120mm rad on the exhaust
I would have said get a smaller one and mount it mid way to the actual Radiator. There is no gain to having a big res tube. You could do something like this.
That is a premium mount there, but there are cheaper ones available.
Layer Cakes
New member
I would have said get a smaller one and mount it mid way to the actual Radiator. There is no gain to having a big res tube. You could do something like this.
That is a premium mount there, but there are cheaper ones available.
I'm mainly using such a big res just to fill up the case a bit. Those rad clips are nice, but not sure if they're actually necessary. I love how my res sort of just floats :lol:
Layer Cakes
New member
Any idea what these cost? I might get a custom one machined instead
