Why will you need 5 optical bays!?!?
i have 1 DVD/burner drive, for burning all my tunes on, so i got something to listen to in the car, lol, a multi-card reader, with more USB ports on it, which comes in useful for our holiday pics we upload from time to time, obviosuly the dual bay resovoir, & a blu-ray drive, for watching blu rays on for me & kids.
im still leaning towards the 820, simply because it closly resembles the phantom, which is why i bought the phantom in the first place. it wasnt just a standard square box. Tho, that price is a little offputting, but i think shopping around, i may just save on it.
not to mention the fan controller on it, which is a nice touch on both phantoms. tho saying that, ive still got, brand new in the box, an NZXT sentry standalone, which i bought by accident. but now, i could probably use that.
I'm lovign the help/suggestions, & its certainly giving me something to think about.
What about a Storm Trooper/Stryker then?
Up to 9x 5.25" bays:
http://www.cmstorm.com/en/products/chassis/Trooper/
ok, im really liking the Phantom 820. Its such a shame on my current phantom, as a monsta 240 would fit in the bottom too. & ive bought the DEMCiFLex filters for it too, to keep that rotten dust out.
now, watching Toms review on it, & then reading the spec on the case, it says you can fit in the roof, 3x120mm. but what thickness, & should i go push pull? if so, ( & i would prefer it to get that heat out & upwards & stay out with them running at a slowish speed ) If not, again, what thickness rad would you recommend?
the Resovoir ive already bought, so cant really change it now. I think regarding the bays, ill have to sacrifice the card reader, till i can afford a bluu-ray burner, but again, costs are mounting up, & all i wanted to do origianlly was mount a rad & get going. I wasnt after super cool temps, & im still going to leave the H80 CPU cooler on. AS if it aint broke, dont fix itIt really is running cool!
ok i got some measurements finally today. from the top of my case, to the top edge of the motherboard, was 51mm. & thats if the rad is wide enough that it foul it.
I had holes in the top of the case, where my 200mm fans are, & i measured 110mm spacing inbetween the 2 large fans in the roof ( if rads have 110mm spacing?? ) & that would mean it could only be bolted into place in the centre of the rad.
otherwise, the holes that are used for the fans right now, have 145mm spacing. which obviosuly could also be used to hold the rad in all 4 corners, but if thicker than 51mm, it would foul the MB.
if the 110mm holes are used to secure the rad in its most centre point, then it wouldnt foul the MB/heatsinks at all.
i measured the max length it could be was 375mm - 380mm
at the back end of my case, where the H80 sits, ive got 30mm space from the very top of it, to the top of the case....
Aren't the hole spacings for rads 150mm or 200mm ?
ok, so, just to clear things up in my head. If i was to cool both cards AND the i7, then 1 360 x 45mm rad up top will do the job, & if its just the cards, then a 240 x 45mm up top plus the H80 for the i7 correct?
drilling the case for more screw holes doesnt bother me, well, i'm sort of expecting to drill holes to make sure all my gubbings are supported & not wobbling around lol
but say, i mount the rad up top, im guessing im going to have to cut out the metal between the two 200mm fans, as that'll be blocking some air? or will it not matter?
just remeber, down bottom, i can still mount a phat 60mm or even 80mm rad down there, 240mm of course. But seriously, i'm starting to think weather or not to go for, as suggested for the Phantom 820 case.....
ok, that performance link, really was suprising, considering how restrictive they were saying it was. But a noticiable change in temps, as soon as the fans start kicking in.
whats the diffence between the alu & copper finned one? is it just looks, or performance? obviosuly, if its just looks, i'd stay with the alu one, but, i remember people mentioning that you cant mix metals ( at least to some degree ) when liquid cooling. & as far as i know, my aquacomputer waterblocks are copper.
What does it mean by "one circuit or two circuits" ? which one would i need? I think purchasing that Airplex one, would probably see me good for upgrades to come, which would deffinatly be an investment, & i thank you for bringing it to my attention. To me, it seems reasonable that price ( i wasnt looking for cheap nasties at least ) for what i was expecting radiators to cost me.
I really think now, after all this advice your sending my way, I'm going to go for the 820 ( im a sucka for stylishtowers.... ) buy that rad when yove answered my questions, get a monsta in bottom, then go from there!!
& 1 more question. Starting from my Res/D5 pump, how would the loop go?
lol, awesome. that second link, what am I looking at there, or do I need? or are they only for the 480? I wont be going for a 480, its far too big! Sticking with the 360 for now.
The D5 pump is going straight into my resovoir That Koolance have a slot for. ( has room for 2 pumps which is good ). I notice some have a separate tacho lead. is it worth getting it with that lead on it or not?
ok you lost me here. That copper 360 Rad comes with a pump?What I was thinking was you can take the pump off the rad and use it with your res, but I'm not sure if they include the other bracket you'd need for it, so I think it's not worth the risk anyway. Keep your eyes peeled on specialtech though, one might pop up in the next couple of weeks, and if it's a good deal - might as well![]()