Tubing Diameter and Reservoir recommendations/advice

[qhfreddy]

I need some advice regarding the tubing diameter, I am going to set up a CPU only loop in a HAF X, which I am planning to upgrade in the future to include SLI/CF GPUs. Should I go with 7/16 inch or 1/2 inch ID tubing, I suppose there might be some restriction caused by the tubes, but I guess most of the components in the loop will be more restrictive than the tube.
I am probably going with compression fittings in the loop. (the swiftech MCP655 pump does have 1/2 inch barbs)
What's your guys take on this?

Also, regarding the reservoir, I have heard some complaints regarding the structural integrity of cubic reservoirs causing leaks at the corners. Would it be more wise to go with a tube rez (Phobya balancer for example) over a bay rez?

Also how does the HAF-X do as far as space to putting a tube rez in?

 

[tinytomlogan]

right from what Ive read your only answer is 1/2 tube or things get complicated because you mentioned compression fittings.

Most compression's are designed for 1/2 id hose and wont work with 7/16.


As for the pump change the top on it so you can use compression's on that too. After all you want it to look nice and match dont you..........

 

[qhfreddy]

right from what Ive read your only answer is 1/2 tube or things get complicated because you mentioned compression fittings.

Most compression's are designed for 1/2 id hose and wont work with 7/16.


As for the pump change the top on it so you can use compression's on that too. After all you want it to look nice and match dont you..........

Specialtech seemed to have a few 7/16 compression fittings.

As for the pump, I'll hide it in the drive bay, I don't really want the pump visible in the first place, so the fittings on it don't really bother me.

 

[tinytomlogan]

the pump will still make noise if you just put it in a drive bay. Youll need to spend a bit more time on it than you are talking about and choosing the right parts or IMHO youre just wasting your money.

 

[alpenwasser]

right from what Ive read your only answer is 1/2 tube or things get complicated because you mentioned compression fittings.

^^^This. Alternatively, if you're willing to go metric, 16/10 mm has a wealth of fittings available. is not too thick to have clearance issues for compression fittings and is very strong due to the comparatively thick walls.
But non-metric, I'd recommend 1/2" over 7/16".

As for the pump change the top on it so you can use compression's on that too. After all you want it to look nice and match dont you..........

As for the pump, I'll hide it in the drive bay, I don't really want the pump visible in the first place, so the fittings on it don't really bother me.

If you get the right pump top, you can improve performance as well. Also, it's way more comfortable to mount fittings on a pump top than get a hose over those standard fittings, and with most tops you have more options in which direction to face your inlet/outlet (most have 2 options for each), which makes it easier to route your loop.
But regardless of whether you go with a custom top or not, make sure you dampen that sucker properly.

As a side note, flow restriction from tubing does not really make a noticeable difference unless you're picking very small tubing. The flow velocities and tubing lengths we're talking about here are too low for the Reynolds Numer to increase so much that it really causes a significant difference in performance; the fittings and blocks cause much more resistance.

 

[qhfreddy]

the pump will still make noise if you just put it in a drive bay. Youll need to spend a bit more time on it than you are talking about and choosing the right parts or IMHO youre just wasting your money.

I think you misunderstand, I was just going to place the pump on a few dampening pads (whatever I can find in the garage) at the bottom of the 5.25 inch bay rack.

If you get the right pump top, you can improve performance as well. Also, it's way more comfortable to mount fittings on a pump top than get a hose over those standard fittings, and with most tops you have more options in which direction to face your inlet/outlet (most have 2 options for each), which makes it easier to route your loop.
But regardless of whether you go with a custom top or not, make sure you dampen that sucker properly.
Reynolds Numer to increase so much that it really causes a significant difference in performance; the fittings and blocks cause much more resistance.

I am rather reluctant to replace the top on the pump, I don't really want to spend much more as the loop is costing over 250 quid already, and the MCP655 seems to have quite some umph to it already.

 

[alpenwasser]

I think you misunderstand, I was just going to place the pump on a few dampening pads (whatever I can find in the garage) at the bottom of the 5.25 inch bay rack.

That should work.

I am rather reluctant to replace the top on the pump, I don't really want to spend much more as the loop is costing over 250 quid already, and the MCP655 seems to have quite some umph to it already.

Yes those tops are not exactly cheap (as with everything else in watercooling). And yes, a stock MCP655 already has plenty of power, absolutely sufficient for a CPU-only loop.

Regarding the original question, I would in that case recommend 1/2".

 

[qhfreddy]

That should work.



Yes those tops are not exactly cheap (as with everything else in watercooling). And yes, a stock MCP655 already has plenty of power, absolutely sufficient for a CPU-only loop.

Regarding the original question, I would in that case recommend 1/2".

OK, thanks man (again )

 

[CDNMeatShield]

Hey there, a Haf X is HUGE for space.
PLEASE have a look at my build.
I've used 1/2" with two 1" manifolds with 3 1/2" outs.