S$%& Happens,So advice is needed...

[Nurf]

Aurora is for show, not for everyday use.
FPI=fins per inch = fin density of radiator.
More rad doesn't hurt but with 1 gpu and cpu, 2x240 will do.
For your sake, just keep it as simple as you can and upgrade from there.
Seeing as you have time and money, I don't understand why you need to get everything right the first time. You might have problems with tubing kinking and needing thicker tubing or angled fittings, meaning you'd need to order stuff again anyway.

 

[Whaler_99]

To expand - FPI (Fins per Inch) measures the density on the Rad. Typically the lower the FPI, the slower the fans can run to cool it. Higher FPI means higher RPM fans to push (or pull) the air through.

So, with a low FPI rad you can use some good fans, like the SP120's in a push or pull only config. Say SP120's Quiet in push/pull with the fan reducers for really quiet operation.

If you are starting out and doing CPU and GPU and can fit it, go with the 360 and the 240. That way if you are going to add a second GPU down the line, you won't have to necessarily upgrade one of the 240's to get decent performance.

 

[Choklitmlk]

and remember: a good guide to rads is 120mm per gpu/cpu + extra 120mm

so for a 690 and a cpu, 2x120mm (gpus) + 120mm (cpu) + 120mm (extra) = 480 mm total (in any config, with decent rads)

if you add another 690. youll want atleast 2 360mm rads in total

 

[Treble20]

OK guys I think I got this now.

* I think I read somewhere about not posting a shopping list but not sure and if I am in breach of rules I apologies in advance.

But going to go for a Dual rad single loop system with a Dual bay res:
CPU Block:XSPC Raystorm
GPU Block abd Back plate: EK FC GTX690 (Nickle/plexi)
360 Rad: Alphacool NexXxos xt45 360
240 Rad: Alphacool NexXxos xt45 240
Res: XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25” Reservoir for Laing D5
Pump:Alphacool VPP655 / Laing D5 Vario 12V Pump with 1/4" Threads & Tacho Wire : VPP655-OT12
Fittings: I like the Monsoon fittings but i dont thhink they will fit my setup, So I am looking out for alternatives.
Clear tubing
Mayhems Pure H20 For rad and part flushing out
Not really decided on what fluid yet (to get pre coloured or mix myself)

I think I can get it all if not most of it for around £500

As always opinions and advice welcome

 

[Choklitmlk]

sounds wicked, give us a link to the build log when you make one..? :lol:

 

[Treble20]

I already Have one up and running.

So here is sorry for any delay :

http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=48059

 

[Nurf]

You might need to buy the threaded rim for the D5 to get it on the res (if this is xspc's newer and smaller black one). Costs so little that you might as well order it just in case.
If your going for colored coolant instead of tubing, Mayhems premix is the least risky choice for a first time build.
Don't know which is better, compression fittings or barbs, but I've used barbs from day one: Masterkleer 16/11mm tubing on 12-13mm barbs. Nice thick wall on tubing for possible bends and a good tight fit on the barbs. Don't need clamps but if you fear leaks, you can get clamps or zip ties to give you peace of mind.
You don't need something like mayhems pure for flushing, but if you don't mind paying for it, its more than good for the job.

All in all, your plan is looking pretty good.

 

[Treble20]

Moar Questions from teh beginer !

You don't need something like mayhems pure for flushing, but if you don't mind paying for it, its more than good for the job.

I defo want something to flush out the Rad's etc as our tap water here is rank. it plays havok in my fish tank and limescale is bad. Don't want to stick that anywhere near my rig.

OK guys (hoping some people are still following this thread)I am getting a lot closer to ordering stuff now.

Just need to ask a few things before I start to enter payment details etc.

1.Does the res size make any difference to the performance of a loop ?

eg will it make any difference me using a single or dual bay res ?​

2.The loop I am planning will have some tight turns in to try and keep it neat. So to avoid putting kinks in the tubing is thinner or thicker tubing better ( would like to avoid using anti kink coils if possible)

3.I know the Loop order is not really important after Res-> Pump but is Res>Pump>CPU>Rad>GPU>Rad>Res an except-able loop order ?

4. Without modding the case to much I can fit a 240 45mm in push pull in the front but if I can mod a little more I think I can fit a 60mm or Monsta in. But if given the choice should I go Monster or Push Pull ?( or if I am good Santa may bring me a Monsta with push/pull.

5.If I can fit it in without having to hack of to much of my Mobo(ram clips) I am looking at getting a Back plate for the 690 based on your knowledge/experience are these OK to paint ?(not me personally Ill pay someone to do it professionally)

I'm Still not 100% sure on what tubing to go for white tubing or clear tubes with white fluid.

It maybe a small note but I plan on using commercial paper toweling (that horrible blue stuff) so when filling and leak testing it will be easier to spot with white or clear fluid.

As usual guys any helps is much appreciated you only have to look back at my original idea to see that what is said I take on board.

Thanks in advance

 

[Nurf]

I didn't mean use tap water , but yea just go with the mayhems pure.

1.In short no. A smaller res might make the bleeding slower, but a single bay res is big enough to not have that problem.
You were planning on getting a D5 res, so I'd stick with that.

2.Thicker walls (OD - ID = thickness) are better in terms of avoiding kinks, but I'd try to avoid tight turns with tubing by using angled fittings if possible.

3.Usually cpu>gpu makes for neater tubing, but if not in your build then no worries, your loop order is acceptable.

4.If your going for quiet then that means low fan speeds, meaning you might not see any performance gains with a thicker rad. The NexXxos xt45 is a good rad. If the thicker rad would look better in your eyes, I'd go with it, but performance isn't really going to be affected.

5.The back plate isn't for thermal reasons so if you want to paint it, go for it.

I'd go for mayhems pastel white. Seeing the air bubbles make first time bleeding easier and if your using barbs, I'd say colored tubing won't look as good.
You'll notice leaks no matter what the color. If you don't believe me, go spill everything in your fridge and you'll see that be it milk, orange juice or water, you'll notice it.

 

[Treble20]

Looking good I can source most of the components just having trouble finding the XSPC Razor GTX690 GPU block in stock. Soonest I have been estimated is 3-4 weeks.

I dont know if I can wait that long so I may be looking for an alternative.

 

[Treble20]

Build Update coming soon

Just an update on the water cooling advice seeked and given guys pretty much all done now and will be updating the build log very soon with pics n stuff.

Here is for anyone interested :
http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=48059

 

[Bang]

Just a side not mate, no advice really. If you have an H100i and it's died on you, RMA that sucker and get it replaced. Even if you dont want to use it ever again you can sell the one they replace it with. It is still under warrantee as it is still only a few months after release, and (correct me if i'm wrong) they come with a 2 year warrantee.

 

[Treble20]

Yeah its a little more complicated then that but ...

I originally had an Intel closed loop cooler (Asetec) this went wrong and very noisy. Then Thermal-take released the Extreme 2.0 as an alternative to the h100 so I paid the extra over the warranty replacement to upgrade. The unit was Ok to start with and temps were good. After a while though the motor got louder and It stopped responding a few times on a boot up. So I looked at getting the H100 and a few days after that the H100i was released asked for one of them instead and had to lose out £30 but didnt have much choice so went for the h100i. Had loads of trouble with it updating firmware didnt work ( I swear it made it worse) but by then had enough and RMA'ed it and kindly asked for a thermal-take replacement back.

Had to use an ugly stock cooler for my ivy but did the job and it also made me look into water cooling sooner.

So complete REAL water cooling loop is now in and installed. and I have a boxed 2.0 Thermal-take Extreme still sealed sitting in my shelf, I tried to ebay it a few times but no buyers (was probably because Xmas etc)

Its all in now and Tested no leaks and over-clocks nicely temps are low just doing some days of benchmarks then will update the build log with pics n Stuff