Rajintek triton rad swap

steverebo

New member
Ive managed to get holdof a rajintek triton 280 aio for my sons build for £45 now i know it uses a nickel plated copper block and full aluminium radiator. I have a spare magicool G2 slim 280 16fpi brass chamber copper tube/fin rad spare.

Now my question is, would swapping the rads round improve performance??
 
Ive managed to get holdof a rajintek triton 280 aio for my sons build for £45 now i know it uses a nickel plated copper block and full aluminium radiator. I have a spare magicool G2 slim 280 16fpi brass chamber copper tube/fin rad spare.

Now my question is, would swapping the rads round improve performance??

First of all check the pump/reservoir unit for loose screws/fittings and leaking.

Also I don't think it will make such a difference
 
ive left it running for a full 12hrs leak testing as I'm aware they have poor QC and its fine.

I just wondered if my 16fpi copper/brass rad will out perform the triton 24fpi full aluminium rad??
 
Waaaaaaaaaaiiiit....... remember that you CANT change any fittings on the Triton as they are fixed to the pump and the radiator. Just so you know, you have to use the fittings and tubing on the pump weather you like it or not.

I learned that the hardway... nearly broke the pump trying to change the fittings....
 
Waaaaaaaaaaiiiit....... remember that you CANT change any fittings on the Triton as they are fixed to the pump and the radiator. Just so you know, you have to use the fittings and tubing on the pump weather you like it or not.

I learned that the hardway... nearly broke the pump trying to change the fittings....

Yeah the 280mm version uses more common 13/10mm tubing and i have a couple of compression fitting laying about. I wont be touching the tubing or the pump fittings
 
You can change the fittings. However the original fittings are fitted with thread lock so you need to re-tap the holes.
 
ive left it running for a full 12hrs leak testing as I'm aware they have poor QC and its fine.

I just wondered if my 16fpi copper/brass rad will out perform the triton 24fpi full aluminium rad??


I know, I ran a 12hr leak test as well when I got it, it's just that it started leaking 6 months later :mellow:


I know it's irrelevant to your post but I felt obliged to say it
 
I know, I ran a 12hr leak test as well when I got it, it's just that it started leaking 6 months later :mellow:


I know it's irrelevant to your post but I felt obliged to say it

I read all about the leaking which did get me worried but my one is now the V4.0 so supposedly all those issues have been dealt with.

I guess I will see in 6 months :eek:
 
From where?


The fittings were tight enough but the leakage was caused from a crack in the acrylic tank, I don't know where from exactly but I noticed that the water level in the tank was getting lower day by day -started noticing that after two months of use- I checked multiple times for leakage but I din't get anything.. I emailed raijintek and they told me to just buy some liquid and re fill... Well I did that, and two months later there was a massive blob of water on my gpu... The difference in the water levels and outside air pressure must have caused the crack...
At least my retailer got me a REFUND and I swapped to a NHD15

(Might I say it performs better than the triton)
 
The fittings were tight enough but the leakage was caused from a crack in the acrylic tank, I don't know where from exactly but I noticed that the water level in the tank was getting lower day by day -started noticing that after two months of use- I checked multiple times for leakage but I din't get anything.. I emailed raijintek and they told me to just buy some liquid and re fill... Well I did that, and two months later there was a massive blob of water on my gpu... The difference in the water levels and outside air pressure must have caused the crack...
At least my retailer got me a REFUND and I swapped to a NHD15

(Might I say it performs better than the triton)

I'd be very surprised if pressure was any kind of factor in this.. there should be exactly 0 differential in pressure between in the loop and outside the loop.. sounds like a defect to me.
 
Yeah I gotta say it doesn't look like it's built with any real enthusiasm. Sealing the fittings in with thread lock is a pretty cynical move as well tbh. Mind you, I guess they don't want any lawsuits on their hands.
 
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