Post A Picture of Your Last Purchase

I've said it a dozen times, for years now: AMD GPUs are like flowers, they need water to flourish. :-) My 6900XT is running 2750 core, 2150 memory, with no voltage silliness, and it struggles to reach 40C under full load for hours. If that card is pasted properly it will be a monster.
 
I can't get it past 2400 ATM. I have a feeling it is in silent mode, and it will take about half an hour to get to the switch. Had I not spent all day running around and then four hours taking the entire chassis to bits I would do it, but I am knackered now.

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TBH dude I wouldn't put any GPU on air. Since lead free tin solder and constant temps over 80c? yeah with GPUs costing what they do I would never run one on air again.
 
I can't get it past 2400 ATM. I have a feeling it is in silent mode, and it will take about half an hour to get to the switch. Had I not spent all day running around and then four hours taking the entire chassis to bits I would do it, but I am knackered now.

TBH dude I wouldn't put any GPU on air. Since lead free tin solder and constant temps over 80c? yeah with GPUs costing what they do I would never run one on air again.

Aren't you technically running your GPUs on air though, at the end of the day? Seeing as the air is needed to cool down the rad that is used in order to cool down the GPU :lol:
 
Aren't you technically running your GPUs on air though, at the end of the day? Seeing as the air is needed to cool down the rad that is used in order to cool down the GPU :lol:

Well the GPU is watercooled as it's the water that is transferring the heat away from the GPU, however, the rads are still air-cooled. Wonder if you can watercool a rad lol
 
Glorious Kailh Box Red, Really nice linear switch especially once properly lubed. Also got some Krytox 205g0 lube, Krytox 105 oil for the springs, Kailh switch opener and micropore tape to holee mod the stabilisers and PCB on my GMMK Pro


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Glorious Kailh Box Red, Really nice linear switch especially once properly lubed. Also got some Krytox 205g0 lube, Krytox 105 oil for the springs, Kailh switch opener and micropore tape to holee mod the stabilisers and PCB on my GMMK Pro

holee mod isn't worth it IMO. doesn't last long. What stabs are you using?
 
holee mod isn't worth it IMO. doesn't last long. What stabs are you using?


I got a hold of the Glorious V2 GOAT stabs, Haven't actually tried them just yet, I may just do the little strip of tape mod underneath the stabs then for extra cushioning instead of the holee mod.
 
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I got a hold of the Glorious V2 GOAT stabs, Haven't actually tried them just yet, I may just do the little strip of tape mod underneath the stabs then for extra cushioning instead of the holee mod.

I'd recommend durock V2 stabs, but have to be careful if you have the first rev of the plate as it's a bit tight and have to file it back.
 
I'd recommend durock V2 stabs, but have to be careful if you have the first rev of the plate as it's a bit tight and have to file it back.

I'll see what the V2 GOAT's are like first, Apparently they fix a lot of the issues of the V1 GOAT's.

On a side note, My HTPC got an upgrade, Sold off my 5800X and plopped in a 5800X3D ^_^

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Alienware mouse is dead. Well, not totally dead but it may as well be. Left button has gone. It's amazing just how much that can F up tbh. My bank has reported me for fraud, Ebay has changed my pass etc. It seems to cause havoc on web pages :(

I am not spending £80+ on another mouse. Not after discovering the wonderful Viper Mini. However, I know even that will die eventually. The issue comes from manual fire in PUBG. I hammer the button TF when I have a DMR.

I remembered someone made meeces with hot swap switches. Turns out it was Asus.

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And of course the obligatory lifetime warranty :D

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I am hoping that when I finally take the AW mouse apart that it has that type of switch. It will be a solder job, but at least I can save it. If not? then the Asus mouse will do the job.
 
Moar buyz.

I didn't want to take the Dellienware mouse apart as I had nothing else. Then I found my Razer Boomslang CE 2007.

Turns out it was my fault. Quick inspection revealed nothing but some hand grot on the scroll wheel.

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However when you remove said scroll wheel the middle button doesn't look very well.

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Thankfully the middle button is water proof (it's under a blue rubber membrane) so still functions 100%. Will need to tackle that with some isoprop. However when I flipped it over there is corrosion under the button (look right side, 3 pins)

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Like I said, I have absolutely no idea in this world how moisture got in there. My drink sits on the far left of my desk and I drink with my left hand. So if anything ever got wet it would likely be WASD, not the mouse. That will also need cleaning up with iso. So I removed the switches as they are cack any way.

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And spent £8 on two Kailh red.

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Just one issue, getting that solder out of the holes. I don't want to spend upward of £80 on a moo cow pump, so I got this.

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I've never been good at solder pumps (manual) but this one is actually built into the metal tip. So you don't have to try and keep the solder molten and somehow get the manual pump on there too.

It wasn't terribly expensive, and I have an amp sitting in my loft that needs a full rebuild, so I will definitely be using it more than once.
 
I've never been good at solder pumps (manual) but this one is actually built into the metal tip. So you don't have to try and keep the solder molten and somehow get the manual pump on there too.

It wasn't terribly expensive, and I have an amp sitting in my loft that needs a full rebuild, so I will definitely be using it more than once.

I'd be interested to know how that cheap heated solder sucker works.

This is by far the best manual one I've used. https://www.amazon.co.uk/innovative-enveloping-silicone-engineer-SS-02/dp/B002MJMXD4/

It has a silicone end so you can hold it onto the joint while the iron is there. It works well but is time consuming to desolder an entire keyboard :D
 
I'd be interested to know how that cheap heated solder sucker works.

This is by far the best manual one I've used. https://www.amazon.co.uk/innovative-enveloping-silicone-engineer-SS-02/dp/B002MJMXD4/

It has a silicone end so you can hold it onto the joint while the iron is there. It works well but is time consuming to desolder an entire keyboard :D

Yeah that is why I went with this. Not because 6 holes on a mouse will be that bad, but because I have an old Arcam amp in my loft that needs a lot of work. Which one day I will get bored enough to get around to.....

It does work well. I checked out the reviews on Amazon and they were nearly all positive. I mean, it's actually very simple tbh. Instead of trying to align that silicon end over the molten joint whilst simultaneously trying not to move the iron off it for insta cool down is a bugger at the best of times. Even worse when you get to my age and can't see with your glasses on, so have to keep taking them off etc.

It also comes with two tips, which is handy. Build quality? yeah, not the best but then it was around £20.

Will be using it next week. Not home til Saturday, but will deffo post my thoughts. Might break out something old and just use it for the sake of it too. Got an old router, TV box etc I can experiment on :)
 
I've never been good at solder pumps (manual) but this one is actually built into the metal tip. So you don't have to try and keep the solder molten and somehow get the manual pump on there too.

It wasn't terribly expensive, and I have an amp sitting in my loft that needs a full rebuild, so I will definitely be using it more than once.
I'd been using the manual solder pumps for over a decade and usually had little trouble. I bought a hakko fr-301 earlier this year as I had trouble doing an old motherboard. OMFG, it's a revelation. It's 1000x easier to desolder anything and cut job times in half. Hopefully that cheap one does a good job.
 
Aye, that's a moo cow one. Would love one, but even the lower end ones have shot up in price since Covid. I guess they were coming in from China, and now either aren't or demand is high and stock low !

I was OK with the manual one until I started needing two pairs of glasses. Since then I just keep missing and getting frustrated.
 
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