Modular.

Update Nine - It started out fun....

So tonight's mission was to get the rads both in and the fans connected. First thing I did was cut off all of the RGB wires.

I then realised that the top of the case does not have through holes for the rad. They are threaded holes. I guess this makes it easy to screw an AIO into. However, no good for me. So I took it all apart and drilled them to 4.5mm.

I then messed up the fan orientation about four times, and finally got it in. Only to realise the stop plugs were on the wrong side. So it all had to come out yet again.

Got that in, turned the case over and started fitting things. After about 30 mins of head scratching I realised the holes for the two fans do not conform to a radiator. They are too far apart. Take whole case apart again, up the fan orientation three times and then finally.

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OK so the rads were now in with the fans on. Which was nice. I did, however, have to change something. Cougar put a 92mm fan in the back there but with it in I do not have any clearance to make the plates fit that will hold this in (see next pic). So, I dug out a NOS Antec clear fan, removed all of the LEDs and put that in (it's 80mm, leaving me the clearance I need) and fitted that. Oddly they give you a 80mm mesh dust filter but not a 92? odd.

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That is about where it will end up. I also connected up the CNC, installed all of the drivers and etc and gave it a "hello world" with the PC sending the data.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrpiDzgFvdg&ab_channel=MyMidschoolLife

All seems to be doing what it should and it didn't blow up, so there's that....

Well, aside from the hour of troubleshooting because it refused to connect and me then realising that, you know? you need to actually turn it on.....
 
I didn't get done fiddling until around 3am. I ate my dinner and went to sleep.

Tonight I game with my friends, so I am mostly going to have a day off. However, I did do at least something.

I needed a way to distro the power to the fans and pump in the cooling box. All small jobs, but all need doing. The only thing I had was this.

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Which I was not sure would work. It takes power through a SATA connector and the connector on the right side is only the tacho and pulse from the board. So I was concerned that even if I shoved it with power nothing would happen unless it was getting a pulse signal from the board. I also was not sure if it had a controller on it as I don't want to peel the thick foam off the back, and thus if I shoved power in it would it blow up?

Seems not.

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I didn't have any spare SATA connectors or pins so I just soldered on using this.

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Hence why the solder touches more than one pin. It's fine, and it offers a more secure anchor. I might even solder the PSU directly to it, if it ever arrives. "Totally in the UK honestly" and then your parcel spends two weeks "On its way to courier"

Yeah. From BLOODY CHINA.

My only last concern with it was "Will it be able to take reduced voltage". Yes, yes it will. Here it is with 5v going through it.

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So that is done. Won't fit it in the case yet as like I say I will probably lop off the barrel connector and solder the PSU directly to it.

Oh and Gareth and another engineering pal pointed out the end mills I had bought were not end mills but burrs. Both showed concerns. However, Gareth, being the super star he is has mailed me some end mills (real ones) so that's sorted.

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IIRC the spoil board and vacuum head come tomorrow. Though I am not in a rush to start destroying valuable acrylic, so slowly wins the race.
 
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Probably break things lol.

I found an old piece of 3mm last night, so that is where I am going to start. Am going to make the frame extensions for the exhaust fan frame (so I can screw it in) and a plate for the power plug. I decided yesterday to run the adjustable PSU externally (if it ever arrives) due to it getting tight in there. So I bought this.

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I had to remove the kettle connector from the rear of the case as it was hitting the rad, so I will make a converter plate out of the scrap I found last night.
 
Update ten - I nearly broke something.

Any way, before we get to that let's go back to last night. Last night I fitted the fan hub and left the power wire hanging out the back for the new socket I will be fitting.

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And wired it in.

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Our test subject.

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Today the spoil board and vacuum thing finally came. Though I was a bit concerned about running it with the dust shoe on being first cut. For some reason at first I could not get the spindle motor to start in Easel, and I accidentally started which dragged the bit along the perspex making a sickening sound. Thankfully I chose to use a crap bit that came with it (big old fat bugger) and so it didn't snap.

I then cut it.

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And it worked perfectly. The only bugger? it left tabs on there and I don't know if you can remove them. I did not know it was going to do that, so in my haste I cracked the piece trying to break it out.

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Though thankfully because of what it is? it doesn't matter any. I will have to take those off, though, which is annoying as they are about 2mm thick.

The only other thing? it's really, REALLY loud. Like it totally surprised me just how sodding loud it was. I am going to have to try and do something about that. Get something under it to stop it making the floor vibrate.
 
OK so I found out how you remove the tabs. Cool. That will save a lot of headaches going forwards.
 
Update 11 - "I'm not perfect, but I'm perfect for you".

OK. So after yesterday's attempt I was feeling really down. Mostly because I am a noisy bugger and I don't mind noise. Problem is the machine was beyond noisy. And I mean, so loud I did not want to operate it. Which left me feeling gutted, and almost had me ditch the project. Even at home that would have been worse than my 15" sub.

I figured I would give something a try. So, I grabbed the enormous rubber desk mat that came with my desk (bit too young for me) folded it up and put the machine on that. Bliss. Seriously, I ended up turning off the hoover because it was twice as loud as the machine.

So, with my confidence restored a little I designed the IO for the water cooling unit.

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OK, so what is going on there? well, there is a 25mm carve. Like, 2mm deep. I wouldn't have done that and it made the cut take 30 mins, but the through fittings are not deep enough to be able to be done up on 5mm acryl. So, I got fancy, and carved them in 2mm.

I have also changed the settings. Instead of trying to go all the way through and continually hitting the spoil board (which DOES make noise because its on an alu bed) I cut at 4.8mm deep.

I did have a serious issue. For some reason the software doesn't understand my dust shoe, and it was refusing to go anywhere near the acrylic. In future I am just going to tell it I don't have one. So I did mess up at first and wrecked a 20mm square in the bottom right corner. That's OK, as I just jogged the machine over past it, and it probably would have ended up as waste any way, being so small.

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So, that is a 1.4mm burr in action. Might be a burr, but holy crap it's doing amazingly well !

After 30 mins.

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Success. I just need to crack out my Dremel sanding barrel bit as I am afraid of cracking the 3mm area. Will do that in a bit, and possibly get that fitted into the cooling box a bit later.
 
Update 12 - "Hmm, I am pretty sure it's not supposed to do that !"

OK so today's task was to finish drawing the reservoir and pump mounting brackets. Be nice, I am new to this. Besides, these are functional items not meant to be pretty.

I cut the reservoir one with no issues. I had increased the feed rate and cut depth though. Problem is the bed is not level (I don't even have a level, let alone a level surface) and it shows. When it goes to the right it cuts deeper. This, combined with my faster feed rate *and* deeper cut depth *and* the fact I should have used more tape to stick it down resulted in an all out failure on the pump mount.

Basically it cut the four holes for mounting, then went to the square in the centre. It cut that out completely, then it flipped up and got stuck on the spindle where there are no cutting teeth. When I freed it? it obviously lost its bearings and just started yamming through the acrylic willy nilly so I hit the stop button.

Reverted back to previous settings, but reduced the cut depth too much and thus when I snapped it out it left the edges a little ragged. TBH by this stage I was done caring, I just wanted my mounts.

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A short while later.

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Moving forward.

Not doing any machining today. To all forums, I decided to buy an A4 069 opal (same as what I am milling in 5mm) in 3mm to put under the cut pieces. The bit absolutely adores turning acrylic into sherbet, but not hitting the MDF. It hates that, and has burn marks on it. So I can and will cut the power socket for the cooling box, but will then wait until the A4 comes in to line the spoil board with.

I also finished up the design of the rear panel.

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And ordered some supplies. Lots of M2 buttons in gold.

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I am going to be using plastic weld for the inner structure, but I want the front and sides to be removable. This way if I end up with a longer GPU in there (hint, I won't, but never say never....) I can take the front off and possibly extend the front. What I don't have is an M2 tap, so I will have to get one. That is all for the future though, and the only place to get them is China, so yeah. That could have to wait until after Xmas. I also got this. This should be UK, and I will need this sooner for the front panel.

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I checked my stash and they are all either latching, or ano red. I think gold goes with white perfectly. Oh and these are arriving in a hour or so from Amazon, too.

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Will need those.
 
Update 13 - "Unlucky for me".

So this evening I figured I would plumb the cooling box. "Easy, ten minute job!". Not.

It was an absolute nightmare. Mostly because it was completely unorthodox and I have never done a loop that needs to be open before. Ten minutes turned into three hours, and having to take that annoying hex res apart five times to keep changing the outlets. I also had to reposition the pump because it was so close to the "out" plate on the rear that there was no way I could get a tube on it.

Got there eventually, but have used nearly all of my fittings. Oh well, that gives me an excuse to buy all new ones for the modular box.

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And yes, it is extremely convoluted. Sadly that was just how it had to be. Thankfully even though the res to pump goes uphill I can prime the pump by sucking the out tube on the back.

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Now that would have been a milestone achieved. Sadly the fans run into the ridiculously large pump top. So, I need to mill some spacers out of some 5mm scrap before I can put those back. Will do that tomorrow.

Edit in. Well that is a relief. I just did a count of what is left, not enough.

For a while I thought I would have to buy all new fittings in a larger size. Thing is? the whole build has been designed with small clearances in mind. IE, not for bit fittings and big hoses. I was extremely relieved to find 10 of these.

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They are Bitspower, same as what I have now. They were on sale for £3.70 each, which saves me a lot. Mostly because I don't have to buy all new hose (I love the black hose and I have tons) and, I was going to try and strip the red off for the modular box. Now I don't need to. If I need any more fittings (like elbows, 90s etc) I can order them in chrome to match. Phew.
 
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Just a couple of notes. So the back plate was delivered two weeks late to my flat today.

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That is on a public road. So, I am 99% sure it will not be there when I return. Royal Mail are assholes.
 
Update 14 - "Unforeseen Circumstances"

Tonight I made my first somewhat major mistake. I came up with a really good idea for the spoil board. IE, cover it in double sided masking tape, then put on a cardboard sheet, then put on more tape.

This was the best idea I have had yet. Also, because this tape is so incredible when I messed up it saved me. Sort of, it saved me another 30 mins and a crap load more tape.

OK, so for tonight's hi jinx I decided to go balls out and cut the hardest part of all. The back. It is the hardest because it is the only piece that is dimension critical. It is also pushing the bed to the limit. And that was why I made a mistake. Any way, what I was cutting and milling.

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Now this is where I went wrong. For some reason I got blinded by the measurements on the board (spoil board) and thought I should start where the numbers start. DON'T. This had the whole piece 1cm too high and of course the bed can't cut that far. So, what you see in the next picture is a whole hour wasted, then another 1 hour and 20 mins (I reduced the depth of the lettering as it was taking the longest.

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If you look up top you can see where I went wrong. It got to the top of the writing, maxed out before even starting the hole for the IO which then messed up everything after. Thankfully I realised my error and stopped the machine before I wasted any more time and materials. I wasted 1/4 of a sheet, £2. I was far more miffed about the time I wasted.

It doesn't look fantastic yet as I am not removing the peel off protection yet. I still have to cut it to the correct height, so that is staying on for now. But it is done.

I also snapped my first bit. I changed it to a 1.2mm bit before I began and when I started round 2 (with the material in the correct position on the bed) I got annoyed and impatient setting the depth. It was too deep, and it quickly snapped becoming lodged in the acrylic. IO tried to pull it out and it snapped twice more, so I drilled it out. Because I switched to a larger bit it then removed all of that damage.

But note to self, 1.2mm bits are really too thin. I would have used the 1.4, but I was paranoid about it being dull after being dragged through MDF. So, I used a 1.6mm which was perfect any way.

I also forgot to say I ordered these.

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I've used them before. They are anodized billet spacers people use for drift racing (on the bonnet, or hood to our colonial cousins). The great part is they are cheap AF (about $5) and come with all of the hardware you need whilst looking fantastic.
 
Update 14.5 "That sucks".

Firstly the PSU tray I modelled was completely wrong. One hole lined up, so I had to work it to make the PSU fit.

It then dawned on me that I don't have the bed height to cut what I was wanting to, and that is why the IO is 5mm too low.

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I am going to have to cut that bigger and try and cover it up.

Bed upgrade needed....
 
Update 14.5 "That sucks".

Firstly the PSU tray I modelled was completely wrong. One hole lined up, so I had to work it to make the PSU fit.

It then dawned on me that I don't have the bed height to cut what I was wanting to, and that is why the IO is 5mm too low.

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I am going to have to cut that bigger and try and cover it up.

Bed upgrade needed....

Ha, just like 3D printing! The upgrades can be never-ending. It's so different being able to make your own parts rather than using off the shelf parts.

Edit: Like the half-life reference too on Update 14 ;)
 
I figured it out in the end. I don't need a bed upgrade, but I forgot I needed to offset the sheet by 10mm over hanging the bed so it left enough meat on the bottom. Schoolboy error ffs.

Cutting a new one now. Will need more acrylic now, good thing I got it cheap really lol.
 
Take three...

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It's much happier now. Fluffy clouds etc.

I also lost my virginity last night and got poked by something new ! an acrylic splinter. Never had one before *proud*. Actually I think they are the worst of the lot, pending metal of course. At least acrylic doesn't rust when it gets stuck inside you.

And dude, yeah been playing Black Mesa lol. On the last part of Xen now. God I hate that level.
 
Update 15 - "Baby got back, and front".

OK so that cut finished beautifully. Yesterday I was in a bad place before I even started. You know? growling and swearing at things before I had even begun. Today I am much better, and it shows.

So, once the back was done I decided to do the front CNC work too. I am glad I didn't quit while I was ahead.

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Completed back.

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And front.

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Third time really is a charm.
 
Update 15.5 - "Waste not want not".

I decided to use a piece I wasted yesterday to make the motherboard tray. It has a line or two carved in the back, but that will go up against the PSU any way.

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I originally intended to run that the full length of the case, and then carve cable holes through it. I don't want to spend a load more money for extra work though, so that is fine. Will drill and tap it later for the standoffs.
 
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