after watching tom's review of the 7c's and he said to lets them be at a distance, i looked at buying the 6c's as a smaller speaker to go on my desk when im going to be really close to them, do you think the 6c's will be better for a closer speakers or not. its for music and gaming but more gaming later on.
microlabs solo 6c's
- Thread starter Froger
- Start date
They are still massive on your desk tbf. Ive got both sets and wouldnt use them for a PC (both connected to TV's and the 6C's are in my bedroom)
They are ok for the money but tbh something like the SP2500's are so much nice and fit on your desk so much better too.
but those are alot more, the 6c's are about 80, the 7c's are about 110, and the corsair are to much for my current budget, so is there something under the 100 pound mark that you would suggest, that can give a bassy feel like you say the 7c's can give as my current (really old) 2.1 speakers don't give much bass from the sub.
Iv also got a new question about whether to buy the 7c's over what i have already, as at the moment i have some really really old (over 20 years i believe) and they are B&W DM110, they have 1 big driver each speaker and a 1 inch tweeter. dont know how big the drive is but its at least the same size as one on the 7c. altohugh they are a bit broken as the main amp is broken and so sometimes one of the speakers cuts out and one of the speakers has a broken tweeter, but the base is really good and they were really good for the time and over a thousand was spent on buying them.
Iv also got a new question about whether to buy the 7c's over what i have already, as at the moment i have some really really old (over 20 years i believe) and they are B&W DM110, they have 1 big driver each speaker and a 1 inch tweeter. dont know how big the drive is but its at least the same size as one on the 7c. altohugh they are a bit broken as the main amp is broken and so sometimes one of the speakers cuts out and one of the speakers has a broken tweeter, but the base is really good and they were really good for the time and over a thousand was spent on buying them.
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You get what you pay for with Audio IMHO.
Sounds like youve made your mind up already so just get the 6's
jamesriley94
New member
The best audio you'd get for £100 would be searching through ebay trying to find a micro-hifi/amplifier, and then getting some decent bookshelf speakers.
If you're lucky on ebay and find things going locally, you could get better audio quality than the 7Cs for about £20/30
SPS
Moderator
My Bro uses the 7Cs as PC speakers and they are monsters.
You're 2nd hand mad! :lol: It's true though you can pick up some quality deals.
You're 2nd hand mad! :lol: It's true though you can pick up some quality deals.
ok, but please tell me, as tom, as much as i respect him and trust him with his advice for PC's, he does not review speakers as his specialty, and proffesionaly, and so may not have looked at every part, but do you know how good the sound quality is as i currently have some old but really really expensive speakers, they are over 20 years old, but spent more than 1000 when the were bought, and are really really good quality but broken twetter, and the are bowers and wilkons speakers, dm110 so you can search for them on the internet and have a look, but how is the sound quality of the 7c's when looking to pick up every single sound, and dont cheap out here, if there is something missing tell me, as what i have got is supposed to be epic quality. so please can i have opinions on the sound quality of the 7c's compared to the best speakers you have ever heard from any price range.
jamesriley94
New member
Haha, I am when it comes to certain things - especially audio equipment. It's like PC cases I suppose - due to postage costs, it's often very difficult to find a buyer willing to make the sale worthwhile, and so if you can find a decent deal locally then you can pick up some incredibly good deals. My speakers are Technics - probably older than I am to be honest, and they're amazing quality. I've spent about £20 in total on my sound (speakers and a sony micro hifi), and even competing against current solutions I don't think you'd be able to beat what I have with £150-200.
The speakers you've listed are fine - and if you put them in the right amplifier, they'll be significantly better than anything that brands themself as 'PC Speakers' - even the SP2500s.
How's the tweeter broken? Could it be fixed? If not, you could very easily buy a new set of tweeters. Hook them up the the right amplifier/hifi, and your audio quality will be amazing.
Having said all of this - if you don't have a half decent soundcard, you won't really notice the difference between any of the ones that have been listed so far.
how do i replace the speaker, i coul break it when taking it apart, its glued together not screws like modern speakers, i dont know how its broken, and so you cant just hhook i up, but it seems to be, and the amaplifer/receive is broken as well but still works. but dude, this are not cheap speakers, many thousands were spent on buying these orignaly.
SPS
Moderator
The 7Cs sound great and I haven't heard them through a soundcard/amp yet.
They are much better than any logitech sets I've had.
I wouldn't say their price is exactly expensive, I think they are good value. Keep in mind how big they are though, they are very tall to have on a desk, but if you've got the room they are fine.
They are much better than any logitech sets I've had.
I wouldn't say their price is exactly expensive, I think they are good value. Keep in mind how big they are though, they are very tall to have on a desk, but if you've got the room they are fine.
Kei
Member
I'd agree with jamesriley94 on this, your B&W DM110's will be significantly better than some cheap chinese made microlabs. The problem is, due to their age they will need some restoration work. Buying any old tweeter won't work well as the crossover will not be suited to it.
You will need to take the tweeter out and measure the resistance across the two terminals to check if the coil is still intact. (this should be done with the tweeter physically disconnected. (un-soldered if necessary) If the coil measures ok (somewhere between 4 & 8 ohms normally) rather than open circuit you will need to look at the crossover which will be a collection of capacitors, resistors and coils mounted on a board, usually behind the woofer. If the capacitors are non polar electrolytic, they will need to be replaced as these dry out as they age which causes their values to drift way out of tolerance which shifts the crossover points. (plus their ESR rises which will also affect the levels too)
You could contact B&W directly and see what they can do:
B&W Group Ltd - UK Spares & Repairs (UK Customers Only)
Service Department, Dale Road
Worthing, West Sussex
BN11 2BH
Tel: +44 (01903) 221 700
Fax:
Email: UKspares-repairs@bwgroup.com
Web: http://www.bowers-wilkins.co.uk
or you could try speaking to Wilmslow audio who do restoration and repair work.
As for your amplifier, that is probably related to electrolytic capacitors too. The only other common problems you can get with old amps is dry solder joints or dirty switches and potentiometers. (causes crackling and drop outs when used) These need to be cleaned using a contact cleaner like electrolube or deoxit D5.
I created a thread on AVforums about restoring old hifi, which may help. Usually, it's not all that expensive, just takes a few hours work. Building your own speakers is where it gets expensive as each drive unit costs more than your average set of pc speakers.
You will need to take the tweeter out and measure the resistance across the two terminals to check if the coil is still intact. (this should be done with the tweeter physically disconnected. (un-soldered if necessary) If the coil measures ok (somewhere between 4 & 8 ohms normally) rather than open circuit you will need to look at the crossover which will be a collection of capacitors, resistors and coils mounted on a board, usually behind the woofer. If the capacitors are non polar electrolytic, they will need to be replaced as these dry out as they age which causes their values to drift way out of tolerance which shifts the crossover points. (plus their ESR rises which will also affect the levels too)
You could contact B&W directly and see what they can do:
B&W Group Ltd - UK Spares & Repairs (UK Customers Only)
Service Department, Dale Road
Worthing, West Sussex
BN11 2BH
Tel: +44 (01903) 221 700
Fax:
Email: UKspares-repairs@bwgroup.com
Web: http://www.bowers-wilkins.co.uk
or you could try speaking to Wilmslow audio who do restoration and repair work.
As for your amplifier, that is probably related to electrolytic capacitors too. The only other common problems you can get with old amps is dry solder joints or dirty switches and potentiometers. (causes crackling and drop outs when used) These need to be cleaned using a contact cleaner like electrolube or deoxit D5.
I created a thread on AVforums about restoring old hifi, which may help. Usually, it's not all that expensive, just takes a few hours work. Building your own speakers is where it gets expensive as each drive unit costs more than your average set of pc speakers.
