Mach II st Problems - Dead Sensor?

dj_ivocha

New member
[font=verdana, arial, helvetica]Hi, I've got a problem with my MachIIst. I posted about it on 2 forums, but nobody helped me, so I was recommended to post here :)

Here is the short version:

The compressor keeps turning itself on and off, every 2 seconds. But this only when the PC is turned off (even if I've just plugged the MachII into the wall outlet). I also get 2 error codes from the light diodes:

[/font][font=verdana, arial, helvetica]5 - Fail Sensor (when the compressor is just off)

6 - No Shut Down (when the compressor is on, as well as when the PC is working)

I *thought* the problem might be in one of the sensors, and specifically the one, which is tied to the condenser - the sensor is white, with this marking on it: "BRL2D 100C" (click to see a description of the sensor). It is connected with the chipcontrol via a white wire, and the connector is on the right side of the PCB, just on the opposite side of the On/Off connector.

When I disconnect this sensor, the compressor stops working and doesn't turn itself on and off anymore, so I thought this sensor might be faulty. If it doesn't open at 100C anymore, but rather at a much lower temp, that could explain the constant turning on and off...

If anyone of you can help me, please read the whole explanation as well, it might help you figure out the problem :)

So, here's the loooong version:

[/font][font=verdana, arial, helvetica]The MachIIst worked fine for about 3 months... until now.

A couple of days ago it was all fine, and then I turned the PC off and went to sleep. A strange noise woke me up 2 hours later - the compressor keep turning itself on and off - exactly every two seconds. But the PC was off. Knowing how deep I sleep, I suppose it could have been running for more than an hour, without me waking up (the PC is near my head, but then again... I sleep like dead)... it could have also just started turning itself on and off, I can't tell.

So I removed the Mach II plug from the wall and left it so for about 3-4 hours. After that, I plugged it again, but didn't turn on the PC. After about 2 minutes (like the cooldown time after turning off the PC), the compressor started turning itself on and off again. In the Mach II manual the error codes of the unit are only displayed as a decimal numbers from 0 to 7, but it isn't very clear which diode is the 0 bit, and which is the 2 (I'd assume that the first yellow diode after the red is the 0, and the green diode is the 2, but it could be just the opposite).

When the compressor starts turning itself on and off, the diodes keep blinking in the following way:

Code:
[size=3]RED     YELLOW     YELLOW     GREEN

On      On         Off        On

(this is when the compressor is off)

On      On         On         Off

(this is 2 seconds later, when the compressor is on)[/size]

And this keep switching... over and over...

So, when the compressor is off, the code is 5 (fail sensor) regardless of the way the code is read.

When the compressor is on, the code is 6 (No Shut Down)...

Also, the power button on the PC isn't working - I tried short-circuiting the connector on the chip-control, but still no dice. Normally, when I hold the power button for more than 4 seconds, the Mach II will power down, and immediately send a power down signal to the mobo, which in turn will power down (after a couple of seconds, when Windows has unloaded itself). But now nothing happens, neither by holding the power button for even 10 seconds, nor by directly short-circuiting the connector on the chip-control. I also tried to disconnect the wires from the power button, in case it was damaged, but to no effect.

I tried something else - I jump-started the PC by short-circuiting the other connector from the chip-control (next to the one for the power button), and when the PC starts, the compressor stops turning on and off, and runs normally (but the above error code is still shown - the two yellow diodes light, the red blinks and the green is off). The PC works normally, and the Mach II is cooling *almost* as before, even though the error code is shown.

By *almost* I mean that the CPU temperature is now 2-3 degrees Celsius higher than before. I think that if some sensor is really faulty, the chip-control might be receiving wrong data, and run the Mach fans at lowest speed.

I also noticed, that when I unplug the connector on the chip control, which is marked as "THERMO" or something like that (it is the one with two white wires, and is connected to a bimetal switch on the condenser), the compressor stops turning on and off, and remains always off, but the fans still work, and rotate at the slowest speed as far as I can tell. This is with the PC turned off, of course. As soon as I plug that white connector back in, the show starts again...

What do you think is the problem? If this switch is faulty, could the chip control behave that way, turning itself on and off? Why does it start doing so, just after plugging the Mach II in the wall outlet anyway? Any ideas?
smile.gif


EDIT: The red diode is blinking all the time, all other diodes are not blinking.
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You poor guy,I've read your posts in all 3 forums,but i can't help,it's beyond my Knowledge.Is there anything i can measure/test for you ? and your interpretation of the error codes is correct(green is diode 1,red is 4).
 
Ok if you are running a modded bios on your motherboard I know this can cause problems...

At first when I started reading your posts I thought that maybe your unit had lost its gas but later on you say that it runs fine give or take a couple of degrees I would suggest buying a new sensor should only cost £5 or something like that replace the sensor then check your motherboard make sure you can run your system ok on air make sure your power supply is fine then go from there...

I would also suggest failing all that is pull your circuit board out of your mach2st and look for any visable sighns of damage?

Quick question have you taken the head off of your cpu and looked underneath for condensation??
 
name='Thickbrit' said:
Is there anything i can measure/test for you ?

Umm, do you have a MachII? If you do, I might need some info (I'll explain later).

name='fatty' said:
Ok if you are running a modded bios on your motherboard I know this can cause problems...

No, I haven't modded anything. Besides, the problem is nowhere else but in the Mach itself - it starts switching the compressor as soon as I plug the unit into the mains (even when my PC isn't plugged in the mains). So the problem is either a faulty chip-control, or a faulty sensor.

fatty said:
At first when I started reading your posts I thought that maybe your unit had lost its gas but later on you say that it runs fine give or take a couple of degrees I would suggest buying a new sensor should only cost £5 or something like that replace the sensor then check your motherboard make sure you can run your system ok on air make sure your power supply is fine then go from there...

Yep, I too thought that there might be something with the gas, but the Mach is stable and the temps are constant. I'd buy a new sensor, if only I knew what are its specifications.

And the PC is running OK now, for 150 hours since I discovered the fault. It is still cooled by the Mach, which works perfectly normal, excluding the error code (6 when the PC is on) and the possible faulty sensor behind that. Normally, I don't leave the PC 24/7, mainly because it is summer, and I don't want a permanent heater in my room (which is very small, without AC) :p.

fatty said:
I would also suggest failing all that is pull your circuit board out of your mach2st and look for any visable sighns of damage?

Quick question have you taken the head off of your cpu and looked underneath for condensation??

Taking out the PCB is the first thing I'll do... as soon as I have some spare time during the day - the PC is under the table, and I can barely see anything in the night... because I'm too lazy to buy a torch :D.

I haven't opened the hermetic chamber, because I don't want to waste my precious seal string (I have enough actually, but still... when it isn't produced anymore...). Also, see my first reply to your post - the problem has nothing to do with the PC itself - even if there was condensation under the head, and the CPU was fried or even the whole mobo, the Mach shouldn't behave that way. Additionally, I have drowned the whole chamber in dielectric grease, so condensation is hardly possible :).

I have a small request to anyone with a MachII - I'd need the specs of all the sensors. I don't want to know what is written on the sensor itself, but instead just need the resistance at a room temperature (assuming the sensors are thermistors). That way, I can compare the values to mine, and possibly find the fault. If I do, and the sensor is difficult to come to (for example stuck in the head or wherever), I might just disconnect it, and connect a simple resistor on its place, so that the chipcontrol is fooled that the temp is always ~20 degrees Celsius.
 
Usually if it's the sensor that's gone in the Prometeia it's guna need a load of work to replace it, as the sensor is buried deep inside the head.

You mention the white cable, but that is a heater to keep the hose itself warm.

If it is the circuit board that has kicked the bucket, I have a spare one at home that you can have to get ur ST up and running again
 
Well you could of had the spare Temp Sensor I had as well lying around, but that went to Marci for his testing on all the new units, as he couldn't source them
 
I took out the circuit board of the Prommie, no signs of a failure, no blown capacitors whatsoever. I measured the resistance of the sensor, which is in the evap head (it's connected to the board with a pair of grey wires). Just after the system has been turned off (after 1 hour cooling) the sensor has a resistance of ~30 Ohms. When the Prommie has been off for about 3-4 hours, the sensor has a resistance of ~60-70 Ohms. Can someone confirm this? Please :). But disconnect the sensor from the board, to avoid ghost measurements.

If the sensor proves to be functional, the only possibility that remains, is that the board itself is blown. Actually, I think that this is the case, because even with a faulty sensor, I should be able to turn the Prommie on/off, using the front switch of the case... which I can't do since the problem showed up.

name='tc_overclocker' said:
You mention the white cable, but that is a heater to keep the hose itself warm.

No, I didn't mean the white cable that comes out of the hose - it is then connected with the backplate heater, and the joined cable is red. I meant the other white cable - the one, which is connected to the sensor on the condenser - the connector is on the bottom right of the circuit board, under the connectors for the compressor and the mains.

name='tc_overclocker' said:
If it is the circuit board that has kicked the bucket, I have a spare one at home that you can have to get ur ST up and running again

You got a PM :) :)
 
I tell you what fella... if you need the new board, then give me the nod and I'll ship it out to ya... and we'll call it squits ;)

Just think of it as a TC favour :D ... anything to help out my fellow EP-UK buddies
 
Thanks a lot, mate! You might just save my life... *cough* Prommie :D

name='tc_overclocker' said:
...anything to help out my fellow EP-UK buddies

But I'm in Germany... am I still eligible for a favour? :confused:

If yes, just name the shipping costs and you have a
beer.gif
from me anytime you come to Frankfurt or I come to your town :D
 
Cool! Drop me a PM when you find a courier company, and I'll give you my address :).

Has anyone measured the resistance of the head sensor? It seems a bit strange that it has only 60 Ohms of resistance... I'd rather expect something like >1-10 kOhms :confused:. Please ;).
 
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