GT Woes, Round 2

grunjee

New member
First I’d like to thank anyone who takes the time to read and respond to my thread. I truly appreciate it.

I’ll do my best to keep this brief.. So I got my Mach II GT back from being serviced (see this thread for details on that), and today I geared up for round 2.

First thing I did (and this was last night btw) was ‘bench test’ the Prommy, to see if it would ice up. I did not mount it to the mainboard/cpu etc – this was simply a bench test. To my satisfaction the Prommy fired right up, did its thing and reached temps of ~ -62 C according to the LCD.

So I proceeded to ‘go live’ today. I carefully hooked it all up. I powered it on and my mobo POSTed etc. I went into the BIOS setup and decided to just let it sit there for several minutes, to watch for any obvious problems (water dripping, etc). I am still new to the Prommy thing and am being as careful as possible.

My rig sat and ran for 20-30 minutes just idling in the BIOS setup screen. I saw no problems (water, frost etc) anywhere in my case, and the Prommy LCD screen reported normal temps, around -50 C.

After being on for a couple of minutes, I did notice some frost on one of the compressor ‘arms’ (not sure what the proper term is), which I took pictures of:

icee.jpg


icee_zoom.jpg


And this is my first concern – is this normal? I’m not the expert but I’m assuming it’s not.

Concern #2 – I then touched the main (round) part of the compressor and to me it felt freakishly hot. Not sure exactly what temperature, but too hot to touch. I literally could have cooked an egg on it

Concern #3 – a few minutes later, the Prommy suddenly turned off. There was nothing unusual – no noises, no smoke, no foul smells, etc. It simply turned off as if the plug had been pulled.

I have not been able to get any response whatsoever from the unit since. It’s been about 4 hours since this happened. I have been letting it sit (unplugged) for over an hour at a time and then plugging the power cord back in and trying to power it on. No LEDs come on or anything, nor do the fans spin; it is as if it is dead.

I noticed what appears to be a burned chip on the controller. Btw this is not a piece of lint or dust. I took pics of it as well:

burn1_marked.jpg


burn_zoom.jpg


Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated. And once again, thank you for reading my thread.

 
mightynimrod said:
Get in touch with whoever serviced it matey.

Damn bad luck :(

Thanks for the reply... I'm sure I'll be emailing Hardwaregods (again) come Monday morning. In the meantime I'm hoping fatty or someone else can give me some input on what went wrong this time.

I don't think I've ever had such bad luck before. Sure I've experienced DOA hardware, but never with an item this expensive or difficult to set up and troubleshoot. Maybe I should just stick with watercooling :(
 
From the pics of the the frost on one of the "arms" it looks very like the insulation aint covering all of the hose. I`d say either it long enough or its moved forward a bit, either way..thats what happens. More insulation would fix it, I think, but that would prob mess with the warranty.

Fro the pic of the IC..i`ve never seen anything like that before. (and please believe, 3rd year at uni showed me more blown ICs than I ever thought possible! :)) It looks like mould! Frost prob wouldnt build up on it, unless there was another exposed cold spot near it, in which case its possible something shorted inside it. It looks a bit like capacitor filling, though I dont know if any ICs have capacitive qualities.

Id say get in touch with your supplier, and go mental, but politely...they should cover return shipping as well because this doesnt really look like your fault.

Kenny
 
Thanks for the input Kenny. When I got the unit back this time, it looked to me like the insulation on that 'arm' got shifted or something. Also it seems to be torn on the underside (somewhat visible on my 1st pic). I decided to leave it be and not mess with anything.

I've also seen burned ICs and have never seen anything like this either. In my experience, the middle of an IC will look like it boils or something and it'll be charred black. I've looked over the controller board for any other abnormalities (blown caps etc) and can't find anything.

Believe me, I'm beyond 'mental' with frustration... but Garry at hardwaregods has been very good so far at handling the situation. I don't know what was wrong the first time, nor what they 'fixed' on my unit when they sent it back this time, but I think I just got a faulty unit. I will be the first to take responsibility for 'user error' but I feel confident that's not to blame for this stuff.
 
Mate the frost is normal it maens the mach is not under a great deal of load, also if you have fried the controler it will not start you could also chech the fuse on the control board it will more than likely be fried too... Just send it back and get it fixed properly this time

Sorry you are having sooooo much trouble
 
fatty said:
Mate the frost is normal it maens the mach is not under a great deal of load, also if you have fried the controler it will not start you could also chech the fuse on the control board it will more than likely be fried too... Just send it back and get it fixed properly this time

Sorry you are having sooooo much trouble

Thanks for the response fatty. I'm going to ask Garry at hwgods about checking the fuse, as I'd rather not (I don't feel comfortable doing that).

One more question for you fatty -- what do you think of that IC? Does it look burned? Btw I checked the pics from my previous thread, and I can see that that IC does not have such a mark on it.
 
The chip looks ok. I'm sure that white stuff is some mold or some condensation build up that would scrape off with a tip of something sharp.

That appears to be a op-amp chip and when they fry, you do not see any physical damage, its all internal.
 
CKJ said:
The chip looks ok. I'm sure that white stuff is some mold or some condensation build up that would scrape off with a tip of something sharp.

That appears to be a op-amp chip and when they fry, you do not see any physical damage, its all internal.

Thanks for the input.

As for an update, hwgods suggested that perhaps the fuse blew. Once I can get to the hardware store I'll give that a try and hopefully she'll fire up again.
 
One more update... I was able to track down a replacement fuse (online, none locally) and now I'm up and running.

Although if anyone is reading this thread, I'm wondering if my temps are normal...

I've got a Toledo 4400+ (X2), 1.6 Vcore, 2.9 GHz. Idle temps are around -20-25, and loaded (prime or super pi) get around 0 to +2. This is with both cores loaded after several minutes.

Do these temps sound ok? I'd appreciate the pros' input :)
 
I've only run the Mach II once but have the same setup as you and the evap temp read around -50 idle, -40 load. I expect the temp on chip is about 30 more though. - at least that's what the onboard read through the BIOS.
 
I`d hope you were lower than -10, because that VapoPE territory :) Remember, you`re assuming the BIOS temp probe is accurate...and most arent. :(
 
I think both our results are fairly typical for the dual core 4400. I realize the mobo sensor is not to be trusted but in this case it seems to be matching what should be expected.
 
name='fatty' said:
Temps seem about right what does the display read on the mach2???

The Mach2 reads around -45 C. Ambient btw is hot, ~ 80-85 F (29 C).

A couple more notes... man, I didn't realize how much power the Mach2 uses... mine's using more than 300 W while I'm running Prime95. No wonder my room's heating up so much :(

And my unit keeps blowing fuses... it happens when I shut the PC down, and I try to start the Mach2 up again. I think so solve it, I have to unplug the power cord from the Mach2 and plug it in again before powering it on again.

I've also noticed the Mach2 pulling over 9A on startup... I wonder if this is why it's blowing fuses???
 
The mach does pull a lot of amps on start up this could be where the problem lies also at -45 display you should be around -25 on the actual evaperator head maybe flash your firmware may help
 
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