Custom spraying a case.
- Thread starter dipzy
- Start date
Dawelio
Active member
I highly doubt anyone has had a chance to mod their O11D Mini in this way, considering that many hasn't even recieved their case yet. Due to the massive amount of shipping delays worldwide.
Keep in mind that this case was pushed back around 8 months before launch and this was back in November 20th. I only recived mine in mid january.
So unfortunately I don't think many have done it.
Keep in mind that this case was pushed back around 8 months before launch and this was back in November 20th. I only recived mine in mid january.
So unfortunately I don't think many have done it.
dipzy
New member
Didn't realise it launched not that long ago lol.
I should have worded that a bit better :smile4: What I meant was any case, not just the Lian LI. Looking for recommendations to where I can this in.
Dawelio
Active member
No worries, to be even more specific myself, it was launched for pre-order on november 20th as well. So it technically wasn't even launched at that date.
So now you can see why it has been such a long drawn "launched" of this case.
The issue with this case and spray painting it, is that you have so many different materials. Steel in the main body, then you have acrylic piece on the front and metallic on the inside of the case on the top as well.
Dicehunter
Resident Newb
First you'd need to get the case stripped of any paint already on it, Prepared, Cleaned etc.... then you could take it to a custom car or bike painting place, It won't be cheap but it will be a professional job.
if you have space and time you could just do it at home buddy
dipzy
New member
I'll try attempt it on a small piece like a solid PCI slot or something and see how I get on
I'll try attempt it on a small piece like a solid PCI slot or something and see how I get on
just make sure you remove the old paint mate, as powder coating is not the best thing to paint over.
you can remove the old paint with some sandpaper, paint stripper/chemicals or with something like a poly strip disc. if your going down the paint stripper/chemicals route make sure you clean it off well afterwards by washing it with soap and water drying it and then use some panel wipe to clean the surface again just before painting it, once cleaned with panel wipe before painting try not to touch it with you bare hands as this can leave oils from your skin on the part.
if your going to be sanding the paint off dont go to course with the paper on aluminium parts as you'll find it hard to get the scratch marks out. id recommend using P180 if your going to painting it with a spray gun or if not id go with some P240 if your going to be using rattle cans
once you have the part back to bare metal you'll need to use a primer that will adhere to the bare part. im going to take a wild guess that the pci slot cover is going to be metal rather than plastic so you'll need a wash primer (2k) etch primer (1k) or epoxy primer (2k) apply two full wet coats of your chosen primer then you can apply 2 more coats of a standard primer over this. you'll want to apply your first coats of each primer light to give the second coat something to grip to as the second coat you'll want to apply a little heavier to get coverage, allow 10 to 15 mins between coats or as recommend on the paint can. this allows most of the solvents to evaporate before you apply the next coat
the next stage depends on what type of finish you are looking for, if you want the standard type case finish (orange peel/textured look) then just apply your colour straight over the top of the standard primer or if you wanting a glass finish to the parts you'll need to sand the primer smooth before applying the colour (base coat) id go with P320 if your using a paint gun or P500 if your using spray cans.
applying base coat you'll want to again do your first coat thin (mist coat) to allow the second coat something to grip to, second coat will be a heavier coat and normally 2 or 3 coats is enough for even coverage but if not just apply another coat till your happy its covered, leaving your 10 or 15 mins between coats or as it says on the can
once you have the base coat down and your happy with it you'll just need to apply your clearcoat/lacquer, dont sand the base coat unless you get a run mark in it or some dirt but make sure its dry before you sand it. you'll want to apply 2 or 3 coats of lacquer in the same way as you have done before
on larger parts it pays to lay down your first wet coat and then the second wet coat apply at 90 degrees to the first coat (so your painting across the first coat) this helps to get even coverage across the part and generally means less coats are needed.
if you need anymore advice mate dont hesitate to contact me or if people would like id be happy to make painting guide that people can follow
if you sand between coats you should easily be looking at a finish like this (this has some dirt in it as it was sprayed in my shed at home)
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AlienALX
Active member
If it is anodized you really ought to remove that first. Oven cleaner gets rid of it. And yes, even if it's silver it will still be anodized to stop it corroding in the air.
If it's raw metal you will need to blow it with self etching primer first. If you don't it will literally side off afterward. Then go into primer.
If it's raw metal you will need to blow it with self etching primer first. If you don't it will literally side off afterward. Then go into primer.
im not trying to undermine you Alien but Etch and Wash primers are now pretty old school in the automotive painting industry but i do get that if your going to be painting at home you may not have access to a compressor and a paint gun or may not want to spend the extra money on different products but epoxy primers and sealers are the products 90% of painters now use for bare metal because it has a lot of advantages over etch primers.
Etch primer: -
Positives - good for bonding to bare steel and aluminium, cheap and easy to get hold of.
negatives - not waterproof, can not apply 2k fillers over the top of it as putting a 2k filler over the top of it will soften the etch primer and they will both stay soft afterwards. This is not so good in the automotive industry as the filler is not sealed on both sides from moisture. i get here it in the computer world it wont be so much of an issue but id still rather do any filling over paint than on to bare metal
Epoxy primer: -
Positives - will stick to bare steel, copper, aluminium, galvanised steel, aluminium alloy. 100% waterproof so good for long term projects that may sit around for a while, can apply filler over the top of epoxy primer with no issues, has a 24 hour to 48 hour time frame before over painting it without the need to key the surface up. you can also paint it wet on wet if needs be (you paint over it after its flashed off meaning you dont have to wait for the epoxy to dry before apply a standard primer or colour)
Negatives - the only two drawbacks with epoxy i can think of are the fact you really need to apply it with a paint gun although you could apply it with a paint roller or paint brush and its a bit more expensive than Etch or Wash primer
Car spray shop is the way if its a very specific colour tbh
Thing to remember if you DIY is acid etch and normal etch primer are different.
If you use etch primer you need to make sure that you use a normal primer over the top because it can react with the colour coat and cause blisters
Acid etch will adhere better though - if the case is annodised you will need to make sure you spend a lot of time sanding the case first - it needs to look dull before you start the painting
If you use etch primer you need to make sure that you use a normal primer over the top because it can react with the colour coat and cause blisters
Acid etch will adhere better though - if the case is annodised you will need to make sure you spend a lot of time sanding the case first - it needs to look dull before you start the painting
