Build log: OTD - 1000D

Going to test the top part with a an attempt at one piece.


haha nice blower :D

BTW Pope (Hans Peder Sahl) AKA the guy who started Hexgear did something similar many moons ago. It was called "M8" and he 3d printed loads of stuff to hide things. Amazing tbh.

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Cant wait to see the finished build, any idea what fans you are going to use and how are you going to control them ?
 
Cant wait to see the finished build, any idea what fans you are going to use and how are you going to control them ?

I'm already using ML120s, I feed them into an aquaaero 6xt. Its just ive stuffed the controller in the back out of site. Its really untidy behind there.
 
So as I said. Being the noob that I am for printing, I want to prototype everything for testing fits and such. Yeah its a waste of PLA, but I'm learning

First piece printed. I did a stress test on it with a curved structure to see how it would print. Not the greatest finish, but the proper one will be better angled than curved. However... I was proud to say it fit perfectly. There is a recess of 2mm along with 15mm either side of the hole. The part was the exact fit I aimed for.

So one observation leading to patience. By printing in this orientation with open end up, I reduced print time by 4hours and saved alot of PLA since the interior does not need support. However the exterior where the support is no was rough and this is the visible area in the case.

Flipping the model upright, it would take 9hours to print, better finish, but the entire hollow area would be filled with PLA for support so much waste. Something to think about next time. Especially since I will need 4 of these











Straighter edge will definately look better here.
 
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Right so, I made a proper attempt on one shroud. Still played with quality vs speed. Focus more towards speed, but was very surprised at the result. Side by side comparison of both attempts along with build time.

With the correct infill you can easily counter the extended build time from Orientation


First attempt with curved shroud.

Horizontal Orientation

Build time 9.5 Hours
Standard quality,
Body Infill 20% (Cubic)
Support infill 20% (Cubic)



Vertical Orientation

Build time 5.4 Hours
Standard quality
Body Infill 20% (Concentric)
Support Infill 5% (Concentric)



The infill was almost nothing. So much empty space I thought when it came to building the roof, its going to fail with nothing to adhere too, sag and just collapse. Its literally just 2 walls 0.5mm thick. One in centre, and one mid way




But watching this was fantastic. Its mesmerising. The roof support being spun like a web in mid air.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JH2I5sM9QOM
 
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Last piece of the Top shroud done. All in all total time to print was 24 hours spread out over a couple of days. If you never had patience, you will definitely learn it with 3D printing.



And now the before and after.






They look uneven but that is the lighting giving that effect. I am pretty impressed with myself that I managed to get the recesses, and extrude down into each grommet hole for a perfect fit.

Might redo the far left one at some point so it extends further along the top. Not sure I like that gap, but I can live with it.

 
So next step while I still learn complex angles and designs, was to create a way to redirect the lighting in the case for 2 reasons. One you can see above.

1. I don't like to see the LED strips directly where the indidual SMDs are visible.
2. The placement of some strips has them recessed in the corners of the case meaning the lighting is obstructed.

I wanted to extend the strips out of the corners but also turn them away from plain sight so you cannot see the strips directly.

This is what I am toying with for one section at the moment



 
Very hard to present nicely without a proper camera so I did my best. In person however the results are far more clearer and stronger.

RGB strips are tucked away with obstructed lighting meaning that this strip was not as efficient as it could be, thanks to the 2x 120mm exhaust fans.








Not to mention, seeing LED lights directly is not so pleasant on the eye. I always preferred the soft glow of cold cathode but while the lighting with LED is good, its too strong at the source. I wanted a way to redirect and spread it better.







Furthmore more, while its great these strips can be daisy chained, I always disliked the exposed cables just hanging there in plain sight. I did my best to hide them here, but sometimes the default solution gives us little, to zero options.




That is where these little friends come into play. After playing with dimension similar to the test design in the previous post, I created these two extenders. Ideally they would be one piece but printing bed limitations means we need to improvise.





The pin allows them to connect




Also, due to my hatred of cables, I created a channel running right through, to allow me to tuck unsightly things away wherever possible.





The dimension was a perfect fit on the case so I don't even need to screw it to the back. However there were holes made for M4 screws incase I remove the exhaust fans ones day.













It is hard to tell via these pictures so apologies for the poor quality, but the lightis spread far wider towards the front of the case now. You can also see the bottom strip still exposed, vs the extended strip which is now hidden from the eye.

A good result for me. My next step is to create a corner extender. Will be tough while still learning CAD. And also the vertical stealth plate for all the black cables/24 pin connection cover, and Stealth cover to bridge across the GPU and CPU. Lastly, I still want to create a drive bay to mount the Aquaaero 6XT next to the GPU, which will also serve as a shelf support for the 2 pumps.
 
You can use an LED strip diffuser. Not this one in the link, but there are many out there that would eliminate individual LED glare.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4DRX7N?tag=duckduckgo-braveed-20&linkCode=osi&th=1

I actually have 3. I tried them inside the case and the results were not as good as I hoped. But also the adhesive never lasted long enough due to the heat generated within the case. They seem much better suited for back drop lighting, or behind a desk/monitor etc. That's why I opted to make my own.

I still have them. Just not usable internally unless I screw them or cable tie them.
 
With the Corona pandemic going on, getting some components are quite difficult. I have been waiting for the 8 fan tray for some time and still no stocks available.

What to do in these times?... Make your own!

So I turned to my useful friend. Mr Ender 5 P.R.O

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1000D does come with an 8 fan tray. However it also comes with a 3x 140mm fan tray which I don't think anyone ever uses (judging by the other 1000D builds)

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So its time to get creative. While I will continue to operate with just 2x 480 rads. The drawback of having these in the front of the case is that once normalisation occurs with the coolant, you effectively run cool air through warm rads as the intake.

I plan to put the rads in the roof, and simply have 8 fans as intake and create a neutral pressure to an extent. Hopefully keeping things cooler, since tempered glass is not the best to have when things get toasty.

Picked up another set of fans that will be mounted into the front of the case.

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Let the fun begin...


140mm fan tray dismantled. I'll reuse everything except the tray itself.

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Quick check on the screw holes to make sure I dont make any mistakes given how long it takes to print some parts.

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Not sure what it is about these fans but they certainly do look nice to me. Nothing quite like Noctua but I take what I can get.

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Now this next part I won't take credit for. These were found online from another designer being requested to make them. However based on what I printed, I know I will not use these as the final result as its too basic for my needs and do cause minor issues with cable routing, as well the contouring of the Corsair fan, rubber corners which are raised higher than the fan shroud itself.

It took about 40hours total to print these. Luckily no errors or mistakes as I had them print with high quality.

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As the original designer did not own the case and designed the parts based on measurements, there were few holes made so I had to attach these myself to the fan rails

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Another reason why I don't think this will be the final result?... I have to use almost all of these. I hate screws.

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Et Voila


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I will most likely remix this design. Instead of screws, ill have small tubes male/female running through the fan holes so they can press together. Ill also make the parts recessed underneath to compensate for any raised areas on the Fan corners.
 
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