Arduino Experts?

[Wraith]

Just be careful dude when playing with the out puts

 

[remember300]

i still think a bench psu is the safer and best way to go.

 

[RadeonHDx]

why not see if you can use long pins for a cheap AIO.

The main problem with this, if I've read correctly, is that the extreme heat output of the peltier heats up the water so much that it can actually quite quickly kill the pump. I am aware that the fan will die much faster aswell if it is exposed to heat for extended periods of time as the fan that was on my H60 died the other night :lol:.

 

[remember300]

Im just worried about heat soak you will get into a block of alli or even copper.
where it absorbs more heat than it can dissipate. Hence a cheap AIO with the pump jacked up and high SP fans.

 

[RadeonHDx]

Well the heatsink just needs to keep the hotside under 125C which is doable for a standard air cooler where as a pump would quickly die at those temps.

 

[remember300]

Cant an AIO dissipate that?

 

[RadeonHDx]

An H105 maybe, but if the heat becomes too great not only will the pump in that AIO die, but also so will the TEC. I'm going to start working on making an arduino that would be capable of doing what I need it to with my mums work friend and hopefully we can make something work so that I can run the TEC in a PWM or DC regulatory style.

 

[RadeonHDx]

I think I've found exactly what I was looking for, it's meant for a beefy motor but I'm pretty sure that power is power, am I right? Anyway, I was searching for a solution to my problem in the form of searching for a PWM 25a motor controller and I found a forum and from that a website and on that website I found this, http://www.pololu.com/product/1455. I'm pretty sure this will work but I'm not completely sure if it will be compatable with the TEC and wanted to check with you lot before I went ahead and bought it, or atleast keep searching for something that's possibly a little cheaper.

Joe

 

[remember300]

your right power is power, but i'm still not sure of the voltage feed. and thats alot of watts that can handle

 

[Wraith]

I see those 25a motor controllers all the time they are used in disability scooters, 24v DC controlled via a simple potentiometer, hours of fun playing with them but they are a bit finiky if you edge past the 24.5v area :lol:

 

[RadeonHDx]

I see those 25a motor controllers all the time they are used in disability scooters, 24v DC controlled via a simple potentiometer, hours of fun playing with them but they are a bit finiky if you edge past the 24.5v area :lol:

So I take it you think this is a good idea? I imagine that I'm still going to need to get an extra PSU to power it as I'm not sure how many amps my current PSU actually pulls at load. Also, am I right in thinking that I can attach an arduino to it to make the voltage regulation automatic by connecting the 5v logic on the board to the 5v logic on the arduino and connect a few temp probes to work out ambient and humidity to work out dew point etc?

 

[RamboOC]

Any progress?

I want to see this in action

 

[RadeonHDx]

The peltier has arrived and I have all the stuff I need to cool it and the waterblock to have it in my loop. I still need to buy the board and work out the rest of the arduino stuff but I think I'm right in saying that I can just buy the sensors and follow the how to guide on overclockers.

Would link the thread but I'm on my phone so it's pretty annoying to do, sorry. Anyway, should have the project nearly completely finished by September, assuming that the board won't take months to arrive.

 

[RamboOC]

The peltier has arrived and I have all the stuff I need to cool it and the waterblock to have it in my loop. I still need to buy the board and work out the rest of the arduino stuff but I think I'm right in saying that I can just buy the sensors and follow the how to guide on overclockers.

Would link the thread but I'm on my phone so it's pretty annoying to do, sorry. Anyway, should have the project nearly completely finished by September, assuming that the board won't take months to arrive.

You're going to have a lot of fun with it! I was able to go down to 2C! on idle with a 60w peltier so image what a 300w one can do! Keep in mind that my cpu cooler is not mounted therefore not tight, i think that i would be able to go below 0c if it was mounted

I have overvolted and overheated the peltier while doing my experiments so its not good as it was before, but right now my cpu core max temp while typing this 12c, which is still good

edit:
After overvolting from 12v to 15v, the idle temps are about 0c - 3c

 

[RadeonHDx]

You're going to have a lot of fun with it! I was able to go down to 2C! on idle with a 60w peltier so image what a 300w one can do! Keep in mind that my cpu cooler is not mounted therefore not tight, i think that i would be able to go below 0c if it was mounted

I have overvolted and overheated the peltier while doing my experiments so its not good as it was before, but right now my cpu core max temp while typing this 12c, which is still good

edit:
After overvolting from 12v to 15v, the idle temps are about 0c - 3c

I'm actually not using direct mount so the lowest I can realistically get the cpu temps down to is ambient as the problem of condensation won't be locked just to the cpu block or the cpu socket but will be locked to ambient because the tubing will accumulate condensation and I would rather have a slightly less efficient peltier system than have the tubing insulated. Anyway, as I type this on my phone :lol: I'm insulating my board and cpu with kneaded rubber and ArmaFlex, I'll post pictures later when I get to my laptop .

 

[Thelosouvlakia]

If I acquire an arduino I'm going to make a Floppy Disk MIDI player xD

 

[RadeonHDx]

Just an update for everyone here before I make my final thread in the form of a build log.

I ended up deciding that a direct mount would be my best option in terms of effiency and performance. The build is not quite full insulated yet because I severely underestimated the amount of kneaded rubber (and Blu-tac) that I was going to need. Most of the front of my board around the socket is insulated and armaflex'ed but I'm just waiting on more Blu-tac for the insulation of the back if the socket because the build up of ice from condensation is unreal, for example, I accidentally ran the peltier for 12 hours overnight and the block of ice on the back of the cpu socket was atleast 10mm from the back of the board!

I will most likely end up laquering the whole backside of the motherboard just so any condensation that forms outside of where it should be will just stay on the back and shouldn't damage any components. As it is now, I'm going to have to stretch from just after the second DIMM slot all the way over to behind the mosfets.

Thanks for all your help and support,
Joe

EDIT:

You're going to have a lot of fun with it! I was able to go down to 2C! on idle with a 60w peltier so image what a 300w one can do! Keep in mind that my cpu cooler is not mounted therefore not tight, i think that i would be able to go below 0c if it was mounted

I have overvolted and overheated the peltier while doing my experiments so its not good as it was before, but right now my cpu core max temp while typing this 12c, which is still good

edit:
After overvolting from 12v to 15v, the idle temps are about 0c - 3c

I forgot to ask if you insulated? And btw, if you were worried about using thermal paste and were instead using toothpaste (again ) that you can happily use mx-4 and have the conduction still work flawlessly with no hardening or cracking, albeit with a little condensation if the mount isn't insanely tight. It seems that direct mount is the way to go if you have decent cooling (probably even as little as something like a Seidon v120) can cool a ~150-200w peltier which is what mine is running at at the moment.

 

[RamboOC]

I forgot to ask if you insulated? And btw, if you were worried about using thermal paste and were instead using toothpaste (again ) that you can happily use mx-4 and have the conduction still work flawlessly with no hardening or cracking, albeit with a little condensation if the mount isn't insanely tight. It seems that direct mount is the way to go if you have decent cooling (probably even as little as something like a Seidon v120) can cool a ~150-200w peltier which is what mine is running at at the moment.

errrr lets just say that my project didn't end up to well

 

[RadeonHDx]

errrr lets just say that my project didn't end up to well

Care to tell what happened .

Slightly more on topic, I have since found that mx-4 does have a minimum operating temperature which seems to be about freezing (no good for me) so I have bought myself a 25g tube of Ceramique 2 for most of my future needs as I've read that it may not be quite as good in conventional heat transfer, but is the best for sub zero temps where nothing else competes .

I was having some issues during my first tests where I was getting 0C idles as a constant and nothing less but as soon as any load was put on the cpu the core heated up and shut off within seconds. I believe that this is linked to the thermal paste being frozen and not actually transferring the heat from the cpu to the TEC to the waterblock effectively.