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  #391  
Old 04-09-15, 10:38 AM
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alpenwasser alpenwasser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blade Runner View Post
I like the black tubing, it goes with the case, I think if it had all been copper it would have been too much.

I am a bit bias though, that is because I don't like copper piping. I have plumbed up too many central heating systems to look upon copper tube as anything other than something that should be not seen.
Heh, yeah, you might actually have a point there. A member on another forum actually just gave me the idea of powdercoated copper tubing. But for the time being it's a moot point anyway. But there is always the future

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuB View Post
omg omg omg omg I thought this was dead!! !!!

Hmm, the tubing is a little.. .. I duno.. meh?
It looks quite.. old like.. cracked? is that just the photos?

The copperisation is quite nice, I'm glad it's not shiny I think it changes the tone

Sooo glad to see you back and doing this rig.

Yeah, life just kept interfering with the build, I suppose it's just the way things go.

The tubing isn't cracked, it's just not 100% uniformly colored, I suppose is the best way to put it. The effect is less pronounced in person when you look at it in normal light (more black and blacker than black-ish and grey ) rather than studio lights.

The copper paint is copper particles inside an epoxy matrix. Since many fine particles won't reflect the light quite the same as one smooth surface, you get the change in tone from a solid piece of copper as it is now. When you have the paint right next to an unpolished piece of copper they are very similar indeed. But you can't really get the paint to look like a polished piece of copper since all those fine particles aren't just going to magically align themselves in a way identical to a polished surface.

And yup, very glad to be back indeed, and definitely very glad to be working on this again.

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  #392  
Old 04-09-15, 10:56 AM
Warchild Warchild is offline
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Don't get me wrong. I am really liking this direction. And the tubing isn't as "ghetto" as you think.

Norprene is a good choice. I think what makes it stand out to me, is the fact its not the same shade of black as your components (if that makes sense?). Its a sort of faded colour.

edit* and you can ignore my post considering I just read your reply to Sub basically stating the same thing

But I totally agree. I love this copper choice. I have actually seen a couple of cars here that have had a vinyl wrap over them with the same copper hue and it really does look quite nice.
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  #393  
Old 04-09-15, 11:38 AM
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AlienALX AlienALX is offline
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It looks like the engine bay of an old car. Something from the 10s or 20s. Steam powered maybe?

Which I must say I quite like.
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  #394  
Old 04-09-15, 12:54 PM
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alpenwasser alpenwasser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warchild View Post
Don't get me wrong. I am really liking this direction. And the tubing isn't as "ghetto" as you think.

Norprene is a good choice. I think what makes it stand out to me, is the fact its not the same shade of black as your components (if that makes sense?). Its a sort of faded colour.

edit* and you can ignore my post considering I just read your reply to Sub basically stating the same thing

But I totally agree. I love this copper choice. I have actually seen a couple of cars here that have had a vinyl wrap over them with the same copper hue and it really does look quite nice.
Haha, no worries mate. It's true, the fit to Acetal isn't quite 100% perfect. It's always a bit of a tricky thing, having different shades of black in a build, because rarely do they truly perfectly match (powder coat from the case, acetal, the tubing, the alu backplates on the GPUs, the alu accent plates on the CPU blocks, the motherboard's PCB, the motherboard's I/O area and the PCI-e slots with the Humbrol model paint etc.). Ah well, such is life.

Acetal tubing would fit nicely, but haven't found something like that anywhere.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlienALX View Post
It looks like the engine bay of an old car. Something from the 10s or 20s. Steam powered maybe?

Which I must say I quite like.

Ha, now that you mention it, I see it too.

Thanks!
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  #395  
Old 04-09-15, 07:39 PM
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Mysterae Mysterae is offline
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Welcome back Alpenwasser .

I do like the colour of your fittings, a bit partial to copper. Get your butt in to gear and give us more updates!
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  #396  
Old 04-09-15, 08:29 PM
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alpenwasser alpenwasser is offline
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Hey man, thanks!

It's currently mostly assembled, should have an update in the next few days.
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  #397  
Old 05-09-15, 03:53 PM
crap-at-games crap-at-games is offline
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This looks great and so much attention to detail like no stone left unturned cant wait to see it finished
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  #398  
Old 06-09-15, 10:24 AM
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alpenwasser alpenwasser is offline
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Yeah, that's not too far off. At this point I have more than 300 hours sunk into this.

Thanks!
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  #399  
Old 06-09-15, 11:31 AM
crap-at-games crap-at-games is offline
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Thats a lot of hours but you can tell that by the detail and craftmanship in the build
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  #400  
Old 06-09-15, 10:31 PM
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alpenwasser alpenwasser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crap-at-games View Post
Thats a lot of hours but you can tell that by the detail and craftmanship in the build
Hehe, yeah, it's a hobby, right?

Anyway, update!

Assembled!

Finally managed to put it together.


Hit a bit of a snag with my plan for the power delivery. I have a plug at the back
of the case to which I've soldered a cable which then goes to the PSU via a 90-degree
angled plug. Unfortunately the plug I'd bought turned out to be a bit too big and I
could no longer mount the radiator. I could have raised the PSU, but don't have the
correct standoffs at hand, so instead I got very lucky and found a molded 90-degree
angled connector which is more compact. It goes to the other side, but the cable can
be bent around in a generous loop and it sill works. Disaster averted.

(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)


The drain is the usual principle: T-connector, ball valve. However, in order to be
able to hide it away inside the case, the lever on the valve actually needs to be
in the open position, hence the additional stop fitting on the valve.

Draining the system works pretty well, I get most of the fluid out (it uses about
1.5 litres it seems.
)
(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)


The process for closing it all up is a bit cumbersome, but such is life. I have to
unmount the other PSU cover in order to be able to get the plug's side's cover in,
then remount them both. I've mounted some additional thumb screws to the covers to
that I can hold on to them while bolting them to the case. Works pretty well.

(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)


The passthrough from the pump to the back side and the bottom radiators. The thing
with a wire is an inline temperature sensor.

(click image for full res)


From the bottom radiators we go up to the top radiator via a passthrough fitting.
I had to enlargen the hole in the case by about 20 mm in one direction so that it
all fits, otherwise the fitting on the radiator's side collides with the rad.

(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)


To give you an impression of the trouble I go through for some of the pics, this
is the lighting setup for the picture above.

(click image for full res)


Tethering the Canon 600D (Rebel T3 or something like that for those who have those
model numbers) to my laptop (Linux) via Darktable works very nicely, pretty comfy to
work with.
(click image for full res)


(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)


The reservoir has an inline tube to bring the feed below the coolant's surface level.
(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)


I'm not yet happy with how this looks, will be redoing the loop at least in this
area. But I need to ponder a bit first on how to go about this, and now that it's
up and running and the semester is about to start again I'm not in too big of a
hurry.
(click image for full res)



(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)


The black painted brackets for the GPUs. 780 is the top one, Titan on the bottom.
(click image for full res)


The fan controller, still with the copper plate from way back when, although it
has a bit of oxidation by now. I tried clearcoating it to protect it from oxidation,
but it didn't look right no matter what I tried so eventually I took the coat off
again and just accepted the copper as it is.

(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)


The cabling behind the fan controller. Not too tidy I will admit.
(click image for full res)


The bottom fans are connected to a single channel on the fan controller. One of
the fans has had its tach wire soldered to one of the six pin connector's pins
so that I can get an rpm reading.

(click image for full res)


Bottom fans with a studio light on the other side of the case:
(click image for full res)


Some overview shots:

(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)

(click image for full res)


And with the rest of the computers in our household (except the server, which I
couldn't take down for the pic).

(click image for full res)



I'll be doing some temp measurements in the next few days and will give an update
on that when I have the data.


So long,
-aw
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Tags
560 radiator, caselabs smh10, copper, evga sr-2, geforce titan

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