Triple vs. Dual Radiator
- Thread starter floge03
- Start date
WC Annihilus
New member
I'm not quite sure whether this is still true, but a little while back Masterkleer 7/16" tubing became one of the favorites due to price and the fact that it had the flow of 1/2" and the flexibility of 3/8"
WC Annihilus
New member
Near as I know, no one experienced kinking with that stuff.
name='FragTek' said:
i forward that, 1/2" tubing would kink before 7/16 just b/c of the thicker tubing, it depends which brand of radiator, but of same co. 120.3 has always beat 120.2 in what iv seen, thou there might be minimal temp changes. bigger rad = larger surface area = more closer to ambient temps.
Basically, the closer the water temperature gets to that of the air flowing into your radiator the 'harder' it becomes for the air to extract more heat away from the water. This follows 'the law of diminishing returns' - so if increasing the surface area of the radiator by say 50% gives you a X°C decrease in water temps, then you might need to increase the surface area by a further 200% to give you a further X°C decrease in water temp, etc. But we're talking about very small decreases here.
I think what is more important is that the heat dump of the components you are cooling doesn't exceed the ability of the rad to shift that heat. So, a decent double rad will be more than sufficient for 1 CPU block + 1 GPU block. Some people would say a triple rad is overkill in this case but overkill is ok as long as it's not too expensive
Masterkleer 7/16" tubing is great stuff. It's more difficult to push onto your barbs (might need to immerse the ends in hot water) but equally it's more difficult to pull off, so you have the extra confidence about minimizing leaks.
I think what is more important is that the heat dump of the components you are cooling doesn't exceed the ability of the rad to shift that heat. So, a decent double rad will be more than sufficient for 1 CPU block + 1 GPU block. Some people would say a triple rad is overkill in this case but overkill is ok as long as it's not too expensive
Masterkleer 7/16" tubing is great stuff. It's more difficult to push onto your barbs (might need to immerse the ends in hot water) but equally it's more difficult to pull off, so you have the extra confidence about minimizing leaks.
I very carefully use a hot air gun to heat the tubes before attempting to remove them.
I can't stress enough the very carefully part, because hot air guns can, among other things, degrade the insulation of any surrounding cables or desolder surface mounted components, apart from rendering the tube unusable.
If you're not comfortable with this tool, or you don't have one handy, and hairdryer helps, and even in the highest setting you have a bigger margin for error.
I can't stress enough the very carefully part, because hot air guns can, among other things, degrade the insulation of any surrounding cables or desolder surface mounted components, apart from rendering the tube unusable.
If you're not comfortable with this tool, or you don't have one handy, and hairdryer helps, and even in the highest setting you have a bigger margin for error.
I have another question regarding the removal of the water cooling loop from the computer.
Currently I have my loop all internalized, so I just unmount the rad and cpu block, then just pull out the res and the pump.
However, if I go a triple or dual radiator, that would be mounted on the back of my case, with tubing going through the back, into the case.
If I ever need to "drain" the system how would I do this?
Currently I have my loop all internalized, so I just unmount the rad and cpu block, then just pull out the res and the pump.
However, if I go a triple or dual radiator, that would be mounted on the back of my case, with tubing going through the back, into the case.
If I ever need to "drain" the system how would I do this?
There are few different ways but just do what you think is the safest, you really don't want to get water everywhere! As always have an empty container and some paper towels at the ready.
You can also cut or pull the tubing off one of your barbs that's furthest away from any electronics. This works well if you have long enough lengths of tubing so that the pump or reservoir, say, can be moved outside the case to do this over an empty container. Depending on how you orientate your radiator you may need to tilt your case about to get the last of the water out.
You can also cut or pull the tubing off one of your barbs that's furthest away from any electronics. This works well if you have long enough lengths of tubing so that the pump or reservoir, say, can be moved outside the case to do this over an empty container. Depending on how you orientate your radiator you may need to tilt your case about to get the last of the water out.
name='Allsorts' said:Basically, the closer the water temperature gets to that of the air flowing into your radiator the 'harder' it becomes for the air to extract more heat away from the water. This follows 'the law of diminishing returns' - so if increasing the surface area of the radiator by say 50% gives you a X°C decrease in water temps, then you might need to increase the surface area by a further 200% to give you a further X°C decrease in water temp, etc. But we're talking about very small decreases here.
I think what is more important is that the heat dump of the components you are cooling doesn't exceed the ability of the rad to shift that heat. So, a decent double rad will be more than sufficient for 1 CPU block + 1 GPU block. Some people would say a triple rad is overkill in this case but overkill is ok as long as it's not too expensive
Masterkleer 7/16" tubing is great stuff. It's more difficult to push onto your barbs (might need to immerse the ends in hot water) but equally it's more difficult to pull off, so you have the extra confidence about minimizing leaks.
Thanks for the scientific explanation, and no I'm not joking. I can add the law of diminishing returns to my geek lingo to mess with the people I work with.
