!st water cooling parts .

paulstung

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:DSo after having a good think about was it worth me doing a cpu loop , I decided to take the plunge and put an order in . And thanks to a friendly lady at a certain online store , because of a few order problems lately she threw in Saturday delivery , it all arrived today . Here are the all the lovely bits .

My god those Monsta rads are huge .

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The 140 is for the case not the rad , incase of any comments.:D
 
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those yellow fans are going to look a bit bright unless you have a msi mpower and then it will look sweet and what colour is the coolant or is it just clear
 
Yes mate into the front of a 630 . Yes the fans ,and the yellow hose will look a bit bright, lucky I have an Mpower then .:lol: That's the Color scheme , All black , Monsoon / Bitspower fittings , and internals , with yellow accents , and yellow led in the res , with clear coolant , for now . I went with colored hose but it is the yellow uv , reactive . I will see about adding a dye , a bit later . The hose The yellow hose the shop I ordered from , only had like a banana yellow , it was a bit much . ( I wanted to use 1 shop if possible ( just in case of delivery problems )

I'm going to make a brew flush the rad , set the res / rad up let it run , to flush the dust from the res . And then crack on with stripping the case . Updates to follow .
 
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This is why I prefer packages to letters: They're not bills (and if they have to send you bills in packages, you're either really screwed or really rich :D).

Anyway, looking forward to what's gonna happen with this.
 
So after the day stripping down my rig , watching the Rugby , and building my first loop , she is done . Well the loop is done anyway .

I didn't run into any real problems . Just the one with the rads end tank , I had to cut a piece if the lower drive bay , in order for the fittings to miss it , and the rad holes to line up . And the block was a pain in the arse . It didn't help there were no instructions ,and none to be found online anywhere . But at the end of the day it is only 4 bolts a few nuts , and some springs . How hard could it be ?

I have just filled her up an am starting a night of leak testing . But so far so good . Here is a teaser pic . I will post more in the AM when she is all buttoned up . Can some one recommend a dye , The hose just isn't yellow enough . My hose is Masterkleer ,and EK-Ekoolant , clear . Stupid question but how much do you fill the bay res up ?

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Can some one recommend a dye , The hose just isn't yellow enough . My hose is Masterkleer ,and EK-Ekoolant , clear . Stupid question but how much do you fill the bay res up ?

Nice job, man! But yeah, the hose does not quite look right yet.

Mayhems has their pastel yellow coolant. Although you might wish to have a look at this before making your decision on that one.

For alternatives, have a look here.

As for the fill level, I'd say maybe 10 mm below the top for a dual 5.25" res. There isn't really any hard rules for that. It should be enough so that you don't get any air bubbles being sucked into your loop, and there still should be some air left to compress when the water expands. During usage it will drop anyway due to evaporation (some of the water will evaporate through the tubes) and eventually you'll have to refill.

For my 13/10 system, this happens every few months or so, but with thicker tubing it probably won't be that often.
 
Cheers mate . I now the hose just doesn't look right , I'm going to have a good Google tomorrow . As for dye I have been reading a lot lately about the Mayhems Pastels causing all sorts of problems .

If I do decide to use a colored fluid rather than colored hose , it will be just a Mayhems , yellow dye . To be honest I'm not sure about the yellow any way , My plan was black and white , but I thought I'd try yellow . You don't see many black / yellow rigs . I will stick with the yellow for now ,it's an easy change . we will see in the AM I think I will start with a dye and go from there .

I have just buttoned her up here is a quick pic ,until tomorrow my light bulb has just blown I've got no light .

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update/

Right so My original Block choice came this morning , so I set about fitting it , that in it self was great compared to the Phobya .

And what a difference it has made , the pump was making an odd pump sound like a whine . But now with the Raystorm it is silent . And also the temps with the Phobya were between 28 and 34 at idle . They were ok at load under 45 mins of prime they never exceeded 55 , but my Silver Arrow SB-E was just as good . But now at idle I'm at 22 , 24 , 27 , 25 , I haven't ran prime yet we will see later when I get home . I have orderedsome Mayhems yellow dye to add in the AM , I need to sort out that hose color .

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Right so My original Block choice came this morning , so I set about fitting it , that in it self was great compared to the Phobya .

And what a difference it has made , the pump was making an odd pump sound like a whine . But now with the Raystorm it silent.

According to martin's liquid lab the raystorm has very low restriction, that might have something to do with it.

It's looking good imho. Looks like you've tightened the hose leading to the res, makes it look neater.
 
Cheers mate . The phobya block was just bad to be honest , you could tell the flow wasn't right from the get go . There was air bubbles , right on the outlet , it almost looked as if the bubbles were between the hose and the fitting . It was fully bled but the outlet hose bubbles kept appearing , little tiny bubbles all along the inside top of the hose . I wasn't happy with the temps either , my Silver Arrow was better .

Now the Raystorm is on it's great . I managed to get all the air out withing about 5 mins , which in itself i'm shocked at . I was expecting bleeding to be bit of a chore . Yes the hoses look better now . The outlet still could do with a few extra CM's cutting off . I'm going to leave it for now until I decide on hose change or coolant change . color . I have dye coming tomorrow I'll try that first ,if it's not right I will look into options then . Oh and I might be adding a new GPU under water withing maybe 2 weeks .
 
Oh god yes . It would be rude not to let the GPU , share in the wet fun . Besides once the gfx fans hit about 30% there is no point in water cooling , well the silence side of it any way .
 
Indeed. Besides, GPUs profit massively from liquid cooling not just with regards to noise reduction but also temps. A graphics card that's been running somewhere in the 80's (Celsius) under load can suddenly be at home in the 50's :cool:.
Plus, if you get the right block, it just looks awesome.
 
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Indeed. Besides, GPUs profit massively from liquid cooling not just with regards to noise reduction but also temps. A graphics card that's been running somewhere in the 80's (Celsius) under load can suddenly be at home in the 50's :cool:.
Plus, if you get the right block, it just looks awesome.

+1. Mine was running 66-70ºC under load before W/C and after temps dropped 30-35ºC more or less depending on the ambient temp.
Same for iddle temps. Before: 32-34ºC and after 24-26ºC.

Be carefull mate W/C is like drugs :):):) BTW nice rig!
 
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Cheers mate
I no mate, I've already got a water cooling habit. Whilst playing Crysis 3 @ 1080 and mostly on med/high, my temps never went over 36, on the gpu, and in the low to mid 40's on the cpu.

I already want / need to change a couple of things. The res, pump combo, sounds like it is slowly dyeing. I think it's down to, to complex a loop. As mentioned in my other thread, the X20 was really designed for a single block/rad config. And The want part comes into the Swiftech Komodo gpu block. The copper rim on the NexXxos is doing my swede in. Not even a week in, and I'm already planing changes, that's that habit, in full affect.
 
My gfx card went under water a week after my cpu 1 1/2 years later my new gfx is going to follow I have 480 of rad cooling a cpu and 1 gpu and 8 AP-15's at 25% I don't think I could stand the noise of a gfx fan any more, that's the joys of watercooling the silence :)
 
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