Avet
Active member
That is nice. You need to give us a price limit.
For 2080 I would go with 10600K, MSI Z490-A Pro, 16GB 3200MHz memory.
Small talk & Chit chat
- Thread starter Wraith
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For 2080 I would go with 10600K, MSI Z490-A Pro, 16GB 3200MHz memory.
trawetSluaP
Member
I'm looking to build the PC is cheaply as possible now but would want it to last for a good 5 tears or so with the 2080.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll check those parts out. Would it be worth going the non-K to save a bit?
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Avet
Active member
Non K aren't worth the money. You said you don't want to bottleneck 2080. That is the cheapest you can go. If it isn't a rush wait for Zen 3. It should be out soon. That would certainly give you 5 years easy.
trawetSluaP
Member
OK thanks. I'm guessing I'd then need the Z490 Mobo as the lower tiers may bottleneck or hold the CPU/GPU back?
Avet
Active member
MSI Z490-A Pro is perfect for 10600K and doesn't break the bank.
trawetSluaP
Member
Thank you.
well I can say at least my Z270 and 7700k are not bottle necking with a 2080ti. But you plan to buy everything new or looking to get the best deals?
Dicehunter
Resident Newb
Anyone by chance know which type of glue I'd have to use to glue felt to PLA plastic ? I got a headset stand for my Index and certain parts of it would do well to be cushioned so I bought some red felt and have cut it to size but not sure which type of glue to use that won't soak through and make the felt harden up.
I'd just use some double-sided tape.
Avet
Active member
You need something like fabric glue. Regular glue can stain, or even burn through fabric.
https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-fabric-glue/
Wraith
Bettyswollocks
At work we use Regina Impact contact adhesive or Prefix aerosol to glue EVA/felt linings or Foams to Polyprop acrylics which leaves no residue or discolouration. Other than that I'd go with a doublesided gorilla tape.
AlienALX
Well-known member
Bad idea. It's water based and works by soaking into wood. It doesn't work for felt and etc. I tried it to glue speaker carpet to a speaker years ago and it just doesn't work. It also makes the carpet go hard (which is like felt).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EVO-STIK...768488&hash=item211b2b69a7:g:pGoAAOSwaNlay0SA
Is the good stuff. Others work fine though.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Tin-Up...133120?hash=item466c075f00:g:8XUAAOSwNZtZwn5p
Spray both surfaces. Allow it to tack up, then apply.
Its not a bad idea.
PVA is a common way to glue PLA items together. I suppose it all comes down to what is intended to be bound here. I have used Felt and PLA and it was fine. I made a small "trophy" for a colleagues kid. The felt had a film on the back side making it easy to bind. But this involved a weighted item pressed down onto the felt so it comes down to what application is being used.
But yes, adhesive spray is probably the best.
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trawetSluaP
Member
So quick Q for you watercoolers.
Currently have 3 rads in PC, one top, one bottom, one front. Would it be better overall to take the front rad out so cooler air is being pushed into the case?
Disclaimer: I may have asked this before, however, I'm never really please with my PC so apologies if so.
Currently have 3 rads in PC, one top, one bottom, one front. Would it be better overall to take the front rad out so cooler air is being pushed into the case?
Disclaimer: I may have asked this before, however, I'm never really please with my PC so apologies if so.
Avet
Active member
More radiator surface has the bigger impact. I would keep all rads. You would probably get warmer temps when you remove the front rad.
trawetSluaP
Member
OK thanks. Guess the benefit of cooler air coming into the case will lost due to having less rad space.
Avet is correct. Surface area is everything. However! a minor caviat here. And something which I changed recently to see a adequate improvement.
Having your front radiators as intake isnt always optimal. I'm talking the the min-max type of person. The reason being, once your radiators have warmed up and normalised, your front intake fans will push that cooler air through the rad which is already warm, and thus, you have warm air as an intake. This raises the case temp slightly or alot depending on case.
I had 2 480 rads as front intake. Once I moved them to the top of my rad acting as exhaust and then had 8 fans in the front as pure intake, my case temp and water temp is much cooler. Obviously it will never beat ambient temps, but its no longer like an oven.
So basically CPU went from 73C peak in Division 2, and now it runs at 67C.
I have a neutral setup as opposed to postive pressure before. I now use 8 fans intake and 8 fans exhaust.
Back in my old case the TT Tower 900, the temps were just nuts. I think My CPU peaked at 55C with a moderate 4.6ghz overclock on a 7700k. Since the rads were decoupled from the components in the case, and I had 2 fresh intakes and 2 exhaust in the front. I really do miss that case
Just had a nostalgic moment.
Flashback to my first full watercooling kit ever. 2004 was a sweet year. And that is an Asetek cooling kit.
The CPU block had TWO intakes
And I cooled my GPU with this one. To cool my 6800gt
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Greenback
Active member
More rad space means you can run the fans slower and thus the system is quieter, though there is a diminishing return on the heat taken away
In my first loop I had a Silver Phobya 360 60mm rad with 6 AP15's in push/pull to cool a 2500k@4.8GHz, added another 240 rad when I added the GPU in a HAF-X just as well it was on wheels because it was unliftable.
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I thin mine is around 35-40kg or more
