QX6700 cheap(ish) watercooling?
- Thread starter charlie-j
- Start date
You deffo want to spec a custom build dude.
You need to tell us the budget and vcore.
You need to tell us the budget and vcore.
Like above, either get a decent watercooling setup or just get some good aircooling.
I'd say Swiftech Apogee GTZ, Thermochill PA120.3 or 2 or a Feser one, D5 or DDC 18w depending on what case you have and possibly an EK res or XSPC res top and don't forget a radbox incase you haven't got space for an internal mount. Tubing I would get 7/16" tubing because it's not as thick walled as 1/2" (less you get the special 2mm wall Tygon one) which makes for easier bends and tighter seals but also harder to get off barbs
I'd say Swiftech Apogee GTZ, Thermochill PA120.3 or 2 or a Feser one, D5 or DDC 18w depending on what case you have and possibly an EK res or XSPC res top and don't forget a radbox incase you haven't got space for an internal mount. Tubing I would get 7/16" tubing because it's not as thick walled as 1/2" (less you get the special 2mm wall Tygon one) which makes for easier bends and tighter seals but also harder to get off barbs
name='charlie-j' said:
Yeah a watercooling setup costs, but it's beneficial depending on what you're after. How far can you overclock the QX6700 on air? I'm not sure on how far anyones got on a QX6700 and water.
Remember if you're going to get cheap watercooling, unless it's quality parts (Laing, Swiftech, EK, XSPC, Thermochill, Feser etc) then you're better off getting the best aircooling.
Don't expect much of an extra overclock from watercooling. In my setup and a tread i started about my watercooling, I changed from a Tuniq tower to d-tek fuzion va, pa120.3, pa120.1, Laing 18w w/xspc top cpu only loop and only gained 100mhz. Out of my E4300 cpu 3.4ghz to 3.5ghz.
But my cpu is known to have an fsb wall at around 400fsb so thick i reached the limit of my cpu.
It may be a different story with your cpu, as quads are hotter they'll reach their termal limiting temp sooner on air so water should have a greater effect on taking away the heat.
Also i've seen most q6700 getting to 3.8-4ghz.
Here's my water cooling setup if interested:
http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=24282
Hope this helps.
Ed
But my cpu is known to have an fsb wall at around 400fsb so thick i reached the limit of my cpu.
It may be a different story with your cpu, as quads are hotter they'll reach their termal limiting temp sooner on air so water should have a greater effect on taking away the heat.
Also i've seen most q6700 getting to 3.8-4ghz.
Here's my water cooling setup if interested:
http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=24282
Hope this helps.
Ed
name='charlie-j' said:ThanksCan someone tell me the different parts of watercooling?
What parts you need or what parts we recommended and what they are?
You basically need a pump + radiator + block. Reservoirs can be optional if you plan on using a T-line. I chose the Apogee GTZ because it performs very well and is a bit less restrictive than the EK Supreme. The EK had an advantage with the clear top though as I could easily see if there's any gunk in the fins without having to open it up.
Radiators, the best ones are Swiftech, Feser or Thermochill (the ones I know of). Feser is best performing iirc but the difference between a Thermochill is quite small but if you want the best (and the most expensive
) then get them. They are thick chunky rads though with a low fin density for low rpm fans, but also work with higher rpm fans. They basically can cool better than the thinner rads with fans running at slower speeds therefore lower noise. The Swiftech MCR rads are thinner but are the best performing thin rads though, they offer Thermochill performance for a decent price.Now for the pumps. The DDC's are great small pumps (well quite big I suppose in WxD dimensions) but require aftermarket tops to increase the flowrate as they come with a (delrin/tough plastic?) top with 3/8" (small!) barbs. They do get hot though, try touching the bottom of it after it's been running a while
The bigger brother of the DDC is a D5, they've got a higher flow rate but less delivery head and you can also get one with a variable speed controller. They don't get as hot as the DDC's as well and I think make less noise (I've still yet to use my ones) than the D5.
Is that the info you were looking for?
hmm, theres alot of blocks / rads / pumps, but i personaly like apooge GTZ or GT if you dont have money. from swiftech. also PA120.1 (or .2 / .3 if you got space lol) are great, a good pump is the laing (aka swiftech MCP665) but theres alot of watercooling itens, so all i can do is give some tips, like:
- never get a WC kit (or at least 90% of them lol),that's because almost all of them sux and arent cheap, the swiftech one isnt a bad one (and probably one of the small group that actualy works)
- you can make your own coolant (destiled water / some biocide (pt_nuke) / some uv dyes), or you can buy, that dont makes diff anyways but you will pay more if you buy they already made.
- never, remember, never, put coper and aluminum together, it will make somethign called galvanic corrosion and that isnt good for you loop. (if you put coper / and aluminum on the loop your coolant (the one self made) will need some anti-corrosion aditives)
also try looking for guides, really they explain alot better than me
a good one is http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54331
but i dont remember if its updated, anyways good look with watercooling.
Soap.
- never get a WC kit (or at least 90% of them lol),that's because almost all of them sux and arent cheap, the swiftech one isnt a bad one (and probably one of the small group that actualy works)
- you can make your own coolant (destiled water / some biocide (pt_nuke) / some uv dyes), or you can buy, that dont makes diff anyways but you will pay more if you buy they already made.
- never, remember, never, put coper and aluminum together, it will make somethign called galvanic corrosion and that isnt good for you loop. (if you put coper / and aluminum on the loop your coolant (the one self made) will need some anti-corrosion aditives)
also try looking for guides, really they explain alot better than me
a good one is http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54331
but i dont remember if its updated, anyways good look with watercooling.
Soap.
AntiHeroUK
New member
CPU and GPU blocks will obviously be placed inside the case. Radiators can be mounted both internally and externally depending on the size and space available inside the case. Pump will also be inside as it doesn't make much sense putting it anywhere else unless you are going for an external setup only, which imo is only worth doing if you have next to no space in your case.
name='charlie-j' said:Wow, thanks for the info it's very clear
So where do the parts fit? Do they go in the case? I have an ATX case.
Thanks again for your time, it's very helpful!
No problem, it's a joy to help
Well the the blocks (CPU or GPU) go on the CPU or GPU respectively (duh
) but the radiator could go on the outside via a radbox or be mounted internally if your case is big enough. 120.3 rads are big so most likely they'd be on a radbox on the rear. The reservoirs can be mounted inside too but also on the outside. A bay res goes in the 5.25" bay and there's also 3.25" bay res's too.
The pumps are always inside as well, not that hard to fit them in
Take a look at my old setup to get an idea what I'm talking about. The rad is on a radbox on the rear of the case, you can see the bay res sticking out at the front (was filling it up) and the pump is just resting on the floor of the case.
hmm the noise is made by the fans (aswell the pump), some rads works better with high speed fans / others with medium / others with low. the swiftech rad for example works great with low speed fans and in a normal situation low speed fans are alot quieter. also you could get a 120 rad (with good fan like a noctua) plus pump and a GTZ this would cool your 6700 also if you case fit (if you want to do outise its possible aswell) use a rad box with a swiftech 240, i will search for some links for ya, i think it will be easier to understand.
little update
those are the only kits i would recomend really.
if you low on money;
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2colicoki.html
this one is alot better (better waterblock etc)
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2edukit.html
fan:
the best one for swiftech rads since its low / mid speed with lots of static pressure and super silent.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/no12nf54cfm.html
another good fan and cheaper than the noctua
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sc12slsy40cf.html
little update
those are the only kits i would recomend really.
if you low on money;
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2colicoki.html
this one is alot better (better waterblock etc)
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2edukit.html
fan:
the best one for swiftech rads since its low / mid speed with lots of static pressure and super silent.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/no12nf54cfm.html
another good fan and cheaper than the noctua
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sc12slsy40cf.html
name='charlie-j' said:
£200 would get you a real good CPU setup. My one was noisy because I got 1900RPM Scythes on a high FPI (Fins Per Inch) radiator
With a Thermochill you can run Medium/Low Yate Loons though and it'll still cool well and stay quiet.
Let's see
£45 - Apogee GTZ
£65 - Thermochill PA120.3
£04 - 3/8" to 1/4" converters for the PA120.3
£70 - XSPC Res Top + DDC 18w
£10 - Tubing (More if you go Tygon)
£12 - Fans (Yate Loons)
Around £205~
I paid £200 for mine but I made the mistake of getting extra stuff instead of a Thermochill
Then again I didn't have the space and the right case.
Thank you both, I have bookmarked those two links and will check tomorrow if there is enough room
My aim is to have a quiet PC as possible, and my crappy stock fan runs at about 2500RPM and sounds like a hoover.
Are there any watercooling that can handle fans at low RPM? I see that this link http://www.scribd.com/doc/3456336/Pachelbel-Canon-in-D-arr-Agay-4-Hands runs at about 2000.
This setup looks pretty good:
but I will need to make sure how much I will be able to overclock, seeing as it's another £200!
I had a look here http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews.php?/cases_cooling/yate_loon_d12sl-12_120mm_case_fan_review/1 and it says 28db or 1300 RPM, which is OK, but my aim was for around 15db.
I'll have to check the space in my case tomorrow, thanks again for your time
My aim is to have a quiet PC as possible, and my crappy stock fan runs at about 2500RPM and sounds like a hoover.
Are there any watercooling that can handle fans at low RPM? I see that this link http://www.scribd.com/doc/3456336/Pachelbel-Canon-in-D-arr-Agay-4-Hands runs at about 2000.
This setup looks pretty good:
but I will need to make sure how much I will be able to overclock, seeing as it's another £200!
I had a look here http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews.php?/cases_cooling/yate_loon_d12sl-12_120mm_case_fan_review/1 and it says 28db or 1300 RPM, which is OK, but my aim was for around 15db.
I'll have to check the space in my case tomorrow, thanks again for your time
name='charlie-j' said:
Canon D at 2000RPM?
(Great piece though )name='charlie-j' said:but I will need to make sure how much I will be able to overclock, seeing as it's another £200!
I'll have to check the space in my case tomorrow, thanks again for your time
I looked at it this way before I got my stuff. I bought a graphics card last year for £260 something, which is worth way less than that now. I could have got the kit last year and it would still hold it's value well or I could have got a TJ07!
It was a good investment for me in the end anyway. Only'll have to get a backplate for the newer sockets and possibly a newer GPU block if I change the graphics card.
name='charlie-j' said:
Remember you gotta compromise between noise and overclocks. You can get fan volt mod cables to lower their speeds even more if you want.
Anyway I'll be here tommorow when you find out how big your case is :wavey:
like i said charlie, try looking at noctua NF-P12 reviews, its expensive for a fan, but it was made to be the most silent and better performing fan at low / mid rpm that i saw in my life, but if you go with moogle build, the noctuas dont have a good performance with the PA since its performs better with high speed fans like deltas for example and they are as loud as a jet engine.
