It depends mate, if I manage to get an RMA on the original 280 I will be sticking with that. Otherwise I recks I will be going for an ATi card (4870's or 90's), maybe even some Crossfire action. I will have to see how the RMA goes first. There's alot of case to fill with these MM jobs, so a Crossfire config woud look cool.
Project: Qube³
- Thread starter TopSecret
- Start date
Youngie1337
New member
name='stuartpb' said:
Got a Sapphire 4870 512mb if you're looking to swap for 280 xD.
LOL worth a try =]
It was but unfortunately, you fail
Anyways, on with the project. I got my ordered bits and bobs today and set about installing the CPU loop. It took me an hour or so, and I am pretty pleased with it.
The first job was to think about how I was going to mount the pump. I wanted it to be visible from the outside of the case, and hit upon an idea. I had two HDD brackets left that came with the case, which allows you to fix the HDD's to a 120mm fan. So I decided to use one of these and fix it sideways to the PA120.3 rad. I would then stick the pump onto the bracket, using the sticky foam pad that came with the pump:
Here's the CPU waterblock I am using, the EK Supreme:
And the pump, which is a Swiftech MCP 350 (AKA Laing DDC Pro 10w). I have modded the pump so that it has the same performance of a DDC Ultra. I have also braided the cables for a neat finish.
Next up was to fit the waterblock onto the CPU/mobo. I used Arctic Silver 5 for the thermal paste. As the U2-UFO has a removeable mobo tray, it did make life easier.
With the temporary GPU fitted (ATi 4850)
Then I had to refit the mobo tray, which is as easy as tightening 5 thumbscrews. I also fitted the pump/res at this stage too.
Next up was to cut the tubing to length and fit it.
Once I was happy with the tube placement, I used the worm clips to secure the tubes, and filled the loop up. It took some time to remove the air bubbles and a foam was created when the dye and corrosion inhibitor was added, but this will settle soon.
I don't think it looks too shabby. I have installed 2x UV CCFL's, one along the top and one along the bottom edge on the left side of the case. I will do the same on the right side when I do the GFX loop. The effect doesn't look very good in the picture below, as it was still light and my camera was struggling to get a decent pic (well me). I will try and get some more done later tonight to see if I can capture the effect better.
The CPU temps ahve shown a decent decrease under water, and I would expect a few more degrees once the Arctic Silver 5 has bedded in (200hrs).
So that's the CPU loop done and dusted. The pump works a treat when modded, and saved me a few quid too. I like the effect of the UV lights, and didn't want the case interior to be glowing massively. I just wanted the tubes to be shining and visible through the white mesh.
Anyways, on with the project. I got my ordered bits and bobs today and set about installing the CPU loop. It took me an hour or so, and I am pretty pleased with it.
The first job was to think about how I was going to mount the pump. I wanted it to be visible from the outside of the case, and hit upon an idea. I had two HDD brackets left that came with the case, which allows you to fix the HDD's to a 120mm fan. So I decided to use one of these and fix it sideways to the PA120.3 rad. I would then stick the pump onto the bracket, using the sticky foam pad that came with the pump:
Here's the CPU waterblock I am using, the EK Supreme:
And the pump, which is a Swiftech MCP 350 (AKA Laing DDC Pro 10w). I have modded the pump so that it has the same performance of a DDC Ultra. I have also braided the cables for a neat finish.
Next up was to fit the waterblock onto the CPU/mobo. I used Arctic Silver 5 for the thermal paste. As the U2-UFO has a removeable mobo tray, it did make life easier.
With the temporary GPU fitted (ATi 4850)
Then I had to refit the mobo tray, which is as easy as tightening 5 thumbscrews. I also fitted the pump/res at this stage too.
Next up was to cut the tubing to length and fit it.
Once I was happy with the tube placement, I used the worm clips to secure the tubes, and filled the loop up. It took some time to remove the air bubbles and a foam was created when the dye and corrosion inhibitor was added, but this will settle soon.
I don't think it looks too shabby. I have installed 2x UV CCFL's, one along the top and one along the bottom edge on the left side of the case. I will do the same on the right side when I do the GFX loop. The effect doesn't look very good in the picture below, as it was still light and my camera was struggling to get a decent pic (well me
). I will try and get some more done later tonight to see if I can capture the effect better.
The CPU temps ahve shown a decent decrease under water, and I would expect a few more degrees once the Arctic Silver 5 has bedded in (200hrs).
So that's the CPU loop done and dusted. The pump works a treat when modded, and saved me a few quid too. I like the effect of the UV lights, and didn't want the case interior to be glowing massively. I just wanted the tubes to be shining and visible through the white mesh.
No-one here has spotted my boo-boo then? Great!
When I fitted the EK Supreme, the springs were supposed to go in-between the fastening nut and the waterblock. I fitted them, in my haste, between the mobo and the waterblock. Someone else spotted it in another forum, and pointed out the error of my ways. Anyways, mistake has been rectified
When I fitted the EK Supreme, the springs were supposed to go in-between the fastening nut and the waterblock. I fitted them, in my haste, between the mobo and the waterblock. Someone else spotted it in another forum, and pointed out the error of my ways. Anyways, mistake has been rectified
name='stuartpb' said:No-one here has spotted my boo-boo then? Great!
When I fitted the EK Supreme, the springs were supposed to go in-between the fastening nut and the waterblock. I fitted them, in my haste, between the mobo and the waterblock. Someone else spotted it in another forum, and pointed out the error of my ways. Anyways, mistake has been rectified
I did that as I'm sure that's what the instructions said to do. I changed it because it was ridiculously hard to screw down for obvious reasons... Haven't even got the springs on now.
As long as they are not bare on the mobo stu I think they look better there. Just cut down the bolts, that is a pet hate of mine.
Cheers pal. I had already swapped them round though and there is less of the bolt showing now.
Time for a recap on the project and to list the jobs left to do now. First here's some pics of the case as it is at the moment (please bear in mindd the project is still ongoing).
So here's whats left to do now:
Time for a recap on the project and to list the jobs left to do now. First here's some pics of the case as it is at the moment (please bear in mindd the project is still ongoing).
So here's whats left to do now:
- Get a new GPU (or wait for possible RMA on GTX280)
- Buy hardware for 2nd watercooling loop (GPU loop). Need waterblock, pump and pump top/res. Also need 1x Thermochill PA120.2 and 2x 120mm fans.
- Sort cables out, still some more braiding left to do and need to start tidying cables.
- Still waiting for PSone screen car adaptor, needs modding.
- LCD/circuit board and IO boards need sorting too, going to box them in somehow.
- Change the wormclips on the CPU loop for something more visually pleasing, maybe compression fittings.
- Paint DVD external casing white.
Lynx
New member
Wow i diddnt realise how far this had come till i saw it all together! Man its looking good you should be proud of yourself!
I fell sorry for the companys that arnt sponoring you!
Still a fair bit to go eh?
If you decide on a new gpu what will it be?
Go for the 4890 blackedition, in cf if u can!
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/1GB-...DR5-GPU-1000MHz-800-Cores-2x-DL-DVI-HDMI-HDCP
Cheap as chips
John
I fell sorry for the companys that arnt sponoring you!
Still a fair bit to go eh?
If you decide on a new gpu what will it be?
Go for the 4890 blackedition, in cf if u can!
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/1GB-...DR5-GPU-1000MHz-800-Cores-2x-DL-DVI-HDMI-HDCP
Cheap as chips
John
name='Lynx' said:
Cheers pal.
Got to admit that card looks promising mate, thanks for the link.
name='Luigi' said:Looking very good there stuart
The only thing that looks a bit out of place to me is the tube between the rad and res.
Can the rad be mounted upside down at all?
Apart from that, stunning so far
Cheers mate
The rad has a bleed screw located at the top, so I didn't want to place it upside down as I wouldn't be able to get to it or bleed the rad easily. I quite like the sweeping bit of tube from the res to the pump, it doesn't look too bad in the flesh.
Another day, another job finished. I got the LCD car power adaptor this morning, and have finished modding it. It works a treat, and looks much tidier now that I don't have to trail the external mains adaptor lead into the case.
Here's the car adaptor (unmodded):
Stripped down:
Soldered a male molex connector to the board. Excuse my soldering, it's never been my strongest point, but it works. My poor old desk is getting some hammer too. Nice excuse for a new one soon
Mod done, Basically I have shortened the cable from the plug to the adaptor, removed another cable (which would have powered the PSOne), soldered on a molex and trimmed the casing down. It was very straight-forward and only took 20 minutes.
Here's the rear of the LCD, with the various IO parts and the adaptor plugged in to a PSU's molex. The screen is working fine, and I am surprised it went so easily.
Next up for the LCD is to tidy up the rear somehow.http://upload.overclock3d.net/dwn/241158371507/psu4.jpg
Here's the car adaptor (unmodded):
Stripped down:
Soldered a male molex connector to the board. Excuse my soldering, it's never been my strongest point, but it works. My poor old desk is getting some hammer too. Nice excuse for a new one soon
Mod done, Basically I have shortened the cable from the plug to the adaptor, removed another cable (which would have powered the PSOne), soldered on a molex and trimmed the casing down. It was very straight-forward and only took 20 minutes.
Here's the rear of the LCD, with the various IO parts and the adaptor plugged in to a PSU's molex. The screen is working fine, and I am surprised it went so easily.
Next up for the LCD is to tidy up the rear somehow.http://upload.overclock3d.net/dwn/241158371507/psu4.jpg
retrogamer1990
New member
the 10w to 18w pump mod is surprisingly easy!
Had a good stroke of luck yesterday! The Inno3d GTX 280 that I thought was on it's way out seems to have been given a second life
I tried getting an RMA from Inno3D when the card first started playing up. I never had a receipt for the purchase, and Inno3D said to take the card to my dealer. I would have got nowhere without a receipt at the dealers, so I put it down to another bad experience (and an expensive one too!)
Anyways, the problem was that the card would work right up until a random point when it would crash with a weird screen, and then the PC would reset. I checked the temps, tried different drivers, a different PSU etc etc. Nothing would work. So the card has been sat doing nothing for a while now, until last night.
I had a few tinnies yesterday afternoon, so by last night I was struggling to stay awake. I decided to give the 280 one last chance, and fook me it's working a treat. The only thing I can think of is that the card wasn't sat in the PCI-e slot correctly. It takes quite a hard push to get it in, and I wonder if I didn't push enough last time I installed it. So far I haven't had one single problem, and have been benching etc today.
It's pretty embarrassing really, especially as I am a techhie for a living If anyone had of asked me, I would have told them to check it was seated correctly, but I was too c ocky with my workmanship this time
I tried getting an RMA from Inno3D when the card first started playing up. I never had a receipt for the purchase, and Inno3D said to take the card to my dealer. I would have got nowhere without a receipt at the dealers, so I put it down to another bad experience (and an expensive one too!)
Anyways, the problem was that the card would work right up until a random point when it would crash with a weird screen, and then the PC would reset. I checked the temps, tried different drivers, a different PSU etc etc. Nothing would work. So the card has been sat doing nothing for a while now, until last night.
I had a few tinnies yesterday afternoon, so by last night I was struggling to stay awake. I decided to give the 280 one last chance, and fook me it's working a treat. The only thing I can think of is that the card wasn't sat in the PCI-e slot correctly. It takes quite a hard push to get it in, and I wonder if I didn't push enough last time I installed it. So far I haven't had one single problem, and have been benching etc today.
It's pretty embarrassing really, especially as I am a techhie for a living
If anyone had of asked me, I would have told them to check it was seated correctly, but I was too c ocky with my workmanship this time
