PROJECT: MoonStone

[Paulie]

I dont really have the spare time to invest in sleeving the psu myself atm, plus I personally prefer the no heatshrink look you get from crimping the sleeve to the connector. Would've needed to shorten the cables that come with the psu quite a bit too so this way has the benefit of keeping my warranty on my psu.

I've not been able to find anywhere yet in the UK yet that sells different colours of paracord (other than army colours) so the bitfenix cables ticked all the right boxes for me accept they come with male pins at one, recrimping really is alot less hassle and faster than trying to get the heatshrink to line up perfectly when you have the right tool

 

[ruthless_villain]

I dont really have the spare time to invest in sleeving the psu myself atm, plus I personally prefer the no heatshrink look you get from crimping the sleeve to the connector. Would've needed to shorten the cables that come with the psu quite a bit too so this way has the benefit of keeping my warranty on my psu.

I've not been able to find anywhere yet in the UK yet that sells different colours of paracord (other than army colours) so the bitfenix cables ticked all the right boxes for me accept they come with male pins at one, recrimping really is alot less hassle and faster than trying to get the heatshrink to line up perfectly when you have the right tool

ebay?

 

[nothingspecial]

I dont really have the spare time to invest in sleeving the psu myself atm, plus I personally prefer the no heatshrink look you get from crimping the sleeve to the connector. Would've needed to shorten the cables that come with the psu quite a bit too so this way has the benefit of keeping my warranty on my psu.

I've not been able to find anywhere yet in the UK yet that sells different colours of paracord (other than army colours) so the bitfenix cables ticked all the right boxes for me accept they come with male pins at one, recrimping really is alot less hassle and faster than trying to get the heatshrink to line up perfectly when you have the right tool

http://www.thebushcraftstore.co.uk/paracord-40-c.asp

Good selection of colours and decent prices.

 

[Paulie]

cheers guys,

have to say those prices are insane, £4 for 50 feet delivered, will need to buy a new floor board my jaw hit it that hard!!

 

[Fez]

i have to admit mate this is one nice build ive always liked the case (want one in my front room for tv to game on) but seeing one thats been watercooled looks amazing good work mate

 

[DIGITALI5]

hey sorry to bring this back from the dead but i have been planning this kind of build for a while and shero sent me here

Paulie any things i should really look out for with mounting the loop and also how do u think a 140 rad below the psu would work?

thanks

 

[Paulie]

sorry for the very late reply, only just noticed your question.

Firstly you can't mount a rad below the psu, aside from the serious issues it would create for the psu's cooling, there is only 30mm ground clearance below the bottom of the case so no rad would fit. Just don't try to mount anything to the psu fan, I can only see that leading to alot of tears and at best a burntout psu, at worst alot more dead components.

Sorry if that comes across as a little bit ranty, just think disturbing a psu cooling system probably isnt a good idea, I can understand your thinking behind it as rad space is beyond limited in this case.

With regards to your first question about rad mounting in the rest of the case. Yes there a few things you should note, the case has riveted structural corner pieces where the 120 mm fan mounts. Silverstone have used a triangle shaped piece to hold the case together, I cut and sanded this into a l shaped bracket, I manged to do this without having to take it out of the case. You will need to do something with this bracket as it fouls mounting a 120 rad.

you could mount a 120 rad on the outside of the case on the fan fan whole, you'd need to modify the plastic cover that surrounds the on/off & reset buttons but it shouldnt be an issue as its only purpose is hiding the cables for the buttons.

Tbh if you want to watercool this case your best bet is really external rads and pump, something like a danger den waterbox or the phobya rad stand and just use qdc's, I've managed to squeeze now a 3rd rad into mine, a second pump, a 2nd pump controller and now completed all the mods. Just never updated this log as I been planning on upgrading the rig to 2011, if it will at all be possibly to cool a 3930k and gpu in this case, which I'm seriously doubting but you never know.

 

[Bullmecha]

Just read thru this and I am amazed at the work.

Final pics would be nice to see as you have added in even more components to the mix.

Amazing just amazing !

 

[Paulie]

cheers man,

I was waiting to put a total new rig in the case with the same(ish) cooling setup but the new motherboard tray has been delayed by another month so I've put that idea on the back burner.

If i can get time this weekend I'll post a few pics of the case in its current setup.

 

[Chluz]

Nice Build Paulie,
I have to say, your build, and this one http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/case...74-silverstone-fortress-ft03-watercooled.html
inspired me to watercool my FT03 as well.

I've decided that I want to keep the case so it can be reverted back to air without visible modifcations, plus I have access to a 3D printer, so I've decided to put a Phobya Xtreme 200 (200mm square rad) on the top of the case, replacing the existing plastic grill with a new 6cm thicker one that would contain the new rad and the bitfenix spectre 230mm fan I got for that. The idea is also to have hinges for the top rad, so I can take open the top easily to plug in cable. But we'll see about that when I design the top

I want the build to be as close to possible to silent, so I know big rads is good, but big fans produce low pressure unfortunatly, so I'm afraid the bitfenix will be too loud (also hoping minimum speed is enough for idle and isn't more than 15db)... we shall see. Other than that its cooling a 2500k overclocked first, and then a HD6850 (possibly a HD6990 in the distance future) with a EK-DCP 2.2 pump with compatible reservoir which I hear is pretty quiet. I wanted the MCP35X with its reservoir, but it was nowhere to be found, and the EK combo was way cheaper.

I might later add a 2*80 radiator at the bottom like you did, but I'm afraid of small fans as they always have to run faster, and always ending up louder.

Anyways, curious to know your thought on the 200 mm rad, and possible noise