Project: Lian Li PC7²

Azza

New member
So im going watercooling again and I thought I would make a log of how everything goes, with lots and lots of pics inc my very special case thats in the works. :)

Any way onto business.

PC Hardware:

CPU - Intel Q6600 G0

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Motherboard - DFI Lanparty LT X48-T2R

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RAM - 4Gb OCZ 6400

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Graphics card - BFG 8800 GTS 512mb OC (may be changed to a PNY 9800GTX soon)

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Hard drives - 250Gb Seagate, 500Gb Samsung, 2 x 60gb 2.5inch (Fujitsu & Seagate)

PSU - Corsair 620W

Watercooling gear:

CPU block - EK Supreme Acrylic

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Pumps - D5 Vario, D-Tek dB-1

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Rads - 1 * Thermochill PA120.2 & 1 * Thermochill PA120.3

Res - 2 * Swiftech MCRES-Micro

The bottom of the res have been modded so the out let of the res is at the bottom. Can then put the pumps directly below the res, makes everything alot easier.

Coolant - Feser One (Yellow & Purple)

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Case - Lian Li PC7²

Some latest pics of the case...

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Custom ChilledPC PA120.2 backplate goodness. :)

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Second rad will go in the top panel of case.

Right case for PC and left for watercooling etc.

Cases are attached together using some metal spacers so that both front panels can still fit on.

Thats all for now folks.
 
Oh wow, now that is something special :D

Hope it all goes well hehe. I'm guessing you aren't going to go dual 3870X2 when ti becomes available with a 680i then?

Still needs a dust :p
 
name='Mr. Smith' said:
How come you didn't use the lili 343?

Look forward to seeing this develop :)

Prolly cause Dual PC-7B's are 1/2 the price of a 343 and leeter. :D

Awesome build so far dude, I can't wait to see this finished!
 
A few changes...

Going for a PA120.3 (bottom) and a PA120.2 (top) and getting two Swiftech MCRES as it will be easy to find a decent a place them.
 
name='Hatman' said:
Were you planning on upgrading to one of the X48's when they are released?

No.

Why?

Im not paying silly money for something that im not going to benefit from at all.
 
name='Azza' said:
No.

Why?

Im not paying silly money for something that im not going to benefit from at all.

Didnt you say ud get 4x 3870s at one point :D

Just wondered :) No SLI being used and bad oc'ing for quads on 680i.
 
name='Hatman' said:
Didnt you say ud get 4x 3870s at one point :D

Just wondered :) No SLI being used and bad oc'ing for quads on 680i.

That was ages ago.

My 680i board can get my quad to 3.6ghz fine and dandy and thats all i need. :)
 
Sorry for the very late update but I sort of broke my knee playing basketball and my right leg is in plaster from groin to ankle. :(

Hopefully have the case next week. Only problem is though i left a pump and coolant in my uni room but thats no problem really.

Another thing is that im no longer going with the 680i board with watercooling mobo as me and Colossous have been dealing again. ;)

Will update as soon as any other news comes in.
 
Wow, missed this thread.

Totally stunning case, love it. will be looking forward to the end result.

But so far so good! :)
 
Sorry for the very late update but I sort of broke my knee playing basketball and my right leg is in plaster from groin to ankle.

Mate, I broke my leg last year playing basketball as well!!! No-one believes you at first when you say basketball lol, but it can happen, mine was my Tibia though :( I was in a full-length for about 2 months I think and a half-length for 4 or something stupid like that, it sucks but trust me once you get it set up so you can use ur PC easily (I had to get a wireless keyboard) you will become absolutley 1337 at every game you have (just to try and look on the brightside). Anyway hope it all goes OK for ya, good luck with the build, looks awesome can't wait to see it all come together.
 
Case is all done for the time being.

Here are some pics.

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PA120.3 in the back with a Chilled PC Anodised 120.3 Rad Grill. Custom back plate was made to fit the PA120.3 in the back.

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PA120.2 in the roof with a Chilled PC Anodised 120.2 Rad Grill.

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Custom acrylic window cut into the side panel.

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A couple of shots of the insides. You can see the modifed reservoirs here.

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More pics to come once i start the build.

Big thanks to Tom at Chilled PC for making all this possible and everything he has done so far and for everything that is still to come with this build. You're a star mate :)

More updates soon.
 
This is a guide on how the window was done. :)

First of all, the tools needed :-

1) Pen

2) Masking tape

3) Ruler

4) Jigsaw/dremel

5) Knife

6) Sandpaper 400 grit will do. upto 2000 is nice to have

First of all, mask off your side panel - this will avoid you damaging or scratching your panel and allow you to draw all over it. ;)

window1.jpg


Next, draw your design - keep it simple if you arent experienced with this or want a nice clean look! Be aware of features such as the grills built into Lian Li panels. These may affect where your windows can go.

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After you are happy with your design, drill a small pilot hole to start off your cut (this isnt neccessary for dremels).

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My weapon of choice everytime. Jigsaws are far superior to dremels in my opinion.

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Cut straight up the line you drew with the dremel :-

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I like to stick 1 or 2mm away from the line (on the inside of the cut) which allows for small errors and can then be filed down at the end. Going to close to the cut allows for no errors and you will end up adjusting your window and causing grief. The better you are with the jigsaw the closer you can get - this comes with confidence and practise.

1mm is close enough for me

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Next step is to repeat the process on the opposite corner to where you first drilled so as to do the other two edges.

Once this is done and you have cleaned up all the edges as much as you can with the jigsaw you can start filing. Any file will do. A nice large flat edge will give you a better chance of not messing up.

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Then file down to the line you drew - I tend to file just down to the line so there is a slither of white masking tape visible. This stops you from creating an uneven line. As if you file into the black line you drew you may file into it more in one place than the other as that line is 1mm thick.

1mm doesnt sound like much, but it may be noticeable and why take that chance?

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It should now look something like this :-

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Now I like sand all the edges while the tape is still on, to avoid sanding off the black anodising on the panel. I start with some 400 and then polish up to 1500-2000 just to make it smooth.

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Once thats done and you are happy with the results, you can start measuring up the perspex. Anything from 2-4mm is ok. I only have 4mm in stock at the moment so that will have to do. The thicker it is the more rigidity it puts back into the panel which is nice to have when a huge chunk of it has been cut out.

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Cut that using a sharp stanley knife and a straight edge. Score a few lines along the edge then the perspex should snap cleanly on the edge of a table. You can sand the edges with a file and paper if you want. Its not going to be seen so it doesnt really matter.

My choice of fixings is double sided tape. Its strong but not too strong that it cant be removed at a later date. (It will need to be removed in a couple of months ;) )

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Once you have stuck your panel down (remember to peel off the protective backing on the perspex prior to sticking it down), you should then be finished and have something like this :-

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And thats how the window was done. :)

Thanks to Tom again for that, god knows how it would of looked if I tried it with my hands on the jigaw. :lol:
 
Decided to put together a loop for the CPU.

Ek block on board.

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Now dought I will re-route all the tubing once I do the second loop.

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