Prep/fitting an AMDFX easymod for a mach 2

crystalfat

New member
Preparing and fitting an AMD FX easymod kit for the Prometeia. (ASUS A8N32SLI NF4 DELUXE)

Quick note: I have not checked the spelling or grammar of this in minute. OKAY LOZ!!, also the pictures are dodgy quality because the're off my phone as my trouble n' strife stole my camera.

Ok first here’s a checklist of what I used:

  • Easymod kit
  • Conformal coating (Dow Corning)
  • Dielectric compound/grease
  • Sheet of Neoprene 3mm thick
  • ASUS A8N32SLI NF4 DELUXE mobo
First of all, on this motherboard the bracket on the back of the mobo is glued on. So be very careful you don’t damage the pcb when removing. I used a very thin screwdriver to gain a tiny bit of leverage. Once this is achieved then the back plate should pull away easily. As this was glued I removed the residue with isopropyl alcohol.

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http://www.ldistudios.com/temp/Photo-0034.jpg

Use the conformal coating to cover the motherboard circuitry around the edge of the chip socket. (If using spray take care to mask the entire socket and all other peripheral sockets so no coating enters them)Make sure you don’t get and actually on the socket. I did around a 2-3 cm wide thin coating. Please not the lever arm need to be able to move so make sure it’s free of the coating.

http://www.ldistudios.com/temp/Photo-0035.jpg

Do the same with the back of the motherboard where the socket is. This conformal coating protects all of the components from condensation and it hardens. I then left this to dry for a few hours.

http://www.ldistudios.com/temp/Photo-0036.jpg

Place some dielectric grease on the socket

http://www.ldistudios.com/temp/Photo-0037.jpg

And then spread it around the pinholes with your finger moving the arm up and down a couple of times.



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Stick your chip in, it may take a slight push once aligned because of the dielectric grease in the holes, take care not to bend any pins. I placed it in and then removed it and re-seated it, to spread the grease a bit. Close the lever arm, this may be a bit sticky but it should go down no problem.

NEVER USE FORCE ON COMPONENTS.

http://www.ldistudios.com/temp/Photo-0039.jpg

Cut some neoprene around the edges of the socket. I cut them quite thin so when the mounting bracket is placed on the mobo it fits snugly outside the neoprene.

http://www.ldistudios.com/temp/Photo-0040.jpg

The back plate for the easy mod kit is aluminium. (Bonkers if you ask me). Place the heater inside.

http://www.ldistudios.com/temp/Photo-0041.jpg

This must not touch your motherboard. Seal string should provide that needed gap, I don’t trust it though so here’s what I did. Simply place electrical insulating tape around the protruding bracket edges.

GET THE ORIENTATION OF THE PLATES CORRECT BEFORE FITTING. LINE THEM UP WITH THE EVAPORATOR HEAD BRACKET AND SEE WHICH WAY THEY SHOULD GO.





http://www.ldistudios.com/temp/Photo-0042.jpg

Place the seal string around the edges.

http://www.ldistudios.com/temp/Photo-0043.jpg

Line up the holes and press firmly onto the mobo (check orientation)

http://www.ldistudios.com/temp/Photo-0044.jpg

Place seal string around the front mounting bracket



http://www.ldistudios.com/temp/Photo-0046.jpg

Line up the holes and press firmly onto the mobo (check orientation)



http://www.ldistudios.com/temp/Photo-0045.jpg

Screw in the back plate till it bites then go careful and make sure you don’t over tighten them

You should be ready to fit you prommie as normal.

If this helps one person then that’s enough for me.

Cheers me dears

chris

P.s Please let me know if you think i missed anything

Special thanks to Maverik-sg1, fatty and K404.

Chris

http://www.ldistudios.comhttp://www.ldistudios.com


 
Lookin good :) For the rear heater, I orientated the heater so the wires would come out the bottom- I`ve found the cable is only just long enough to connect with the header from the Mach, if the cable left at the top of the heater, it just wouldnt be happening.

Also, I put a small amount of neoprene onto the rear plate at the corner where the element wires leave, then sandwitch the wires between that and the main neoprene layer, to make sure theres no air gaps around the wires. I choose not to use seal string, but each to their own. Ya shouldnt need both for the rear heater though :)

:D
 
Great guide, thanks for taking the time to do that.

A few pointers:

The back plate - As a precaution use electrical tape to cover the exposed aluminium and the screws.

The neoprene gasket I use on the back plate is a solid rectangle, it forms a seal around the surface mounted components and does not effect the heater operation.

Will you use the silicone solvent to remove the conformal coating or can it peel away?

Cheers

Mav
 
i would use a solvent, peeling can pull off components, its strong stuff!

Think i covered the backplate bit Mav.

I agree i would use neoprene on the back or seal string, no need for both imo.

cheers
 
I also have the a8n32-sli with prommy. Just a little tip on the metal back bracket. I used a pair of vice grips to pull it off. Just clamp to one corner and gently apply force until it moves a little. work your way around the other corners and it comes right off with no residue at all and you dont have to worry about scratching the board. Peace
 
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