Odriod XU 4 water cooled max temp 38c on full load

mayhem

New member
We all Love gimmicks but when your gimmicks trun out to be the near perfect cooling solution for a small system such as the Odriod XU4 from http://www.hardkernel.com/ its becomes even more fun.

The Odroid XU4 is a 8 core mini PC running 4 cores at 2Ghz and 4 cores at 1.2 Ghz. The onboard active cooling ram up and down like a yoyo and when the system hits its maximum heat load of a whopping 98c the system will then throttle down to 900Mhz. this is annoying when your pushing the limits of the system.

With that in mind i decided to water cool the mini PC with the intention of just using what i had on hand and not spending a penny. Now this is fine for me since o own a company and to be as humble as possible i have direct access to lots of broken / tore apart systems and AIO's.

Any way after 4 hours worth of thinking and about 2 hours graft i present to you a water cooled Odriod XU4 running now at 38c (on full load, all 8 cores running hard).

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Im still working on my concept design as we need to do some more adjustments but my final goal will be to get it cool further and also have a better way of reading and controlling the voltages. this is for no other reason but the pleasure of doing it and the fun involved.

The coolant inside is a new Nano coolant ive been working on for AIOs to make them much better at cooling... and it seemingly is doing a dammed fine job...

Some times you have to take a brake from work and play ........
 
Nice.

From a 'design' standpoint, I'd turn the whole mounting system and block 90 degrees and use single hardline runs with 90deg connectors for neatness :)

Can you power the fan directly off of the PCB ?
 
I know what you mean and we tried that how ever there are USBs on both sides of the board so you cannot turn it around :(. Im building a power unit to power both the 12v lines and the 5v lines from 1 power source as the odroid consumes any thing from 5v 3 amps to 5v 4 amps. I have a Voltage LCD read out system i would like to incorporate into its design so we can monitor its loads.

The fans are 12v
Pump 12v
Odroid 5v
Leds to be added yet 3.2V
LCD (to be added yet) 9v
 
Ah yeah, the USB ports, valid point. You should have enough clearance though? just.. maybe? :S lol
 
These are basic plans not to scale (just to show were im upto so far)

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Plans include


1) Set of fins to lift the PCB away from the Radiator so more air flow around the base of the PCB.
2) Housing with no side for the LCD (side plate will come later once i have the power converter).
3) Fan Grill for the 120mm Fan at the back
4) Stand off and Brace for the back of the XU4 to stop it from bending when under pressure.

More to come later once i get time.

Plans include

1) Set of fins to lift the PCB away from the Radiator so more air flow around the base of the PCB.
2) Housing with no side for the LCD (side plate will come later once i have the power converter).
3) Fan Grill for the 120mm Fan at the back
4) Stand off and Brace for the back of the XU4 to stop it from bending when under pressure.

More to come later once i get time.

Some have suggested adding a case around it how ever this whole thing is encased and doesn't need one, I may encase the actual Odroid XU4 it self at a later date.

For those wondering how i have attached the Corsiar AIO tubes to the push pull fittings its actually quite simple. I cut down some 10mm hard tubing, inserted it into the push pull fittings leaving an extra 1/4 of a inch, then warmed up the corsair tubing and pushed it over the 10mm tubing. This has created a good seal and allows me to take off the tubing with no messing around. The Push pull fittings i cut down and used PTFE tape on them so they fit perfect. They cost £0.95 each (i have a few lying around so no cost to me) so much cheaper than using fittings from water cooling manufacturers and complement the build very well. (think out the box you do not have to spend a fortune to water cool).

The whole system uses 95mls of Mayhems XT1 fluid with silver NM tubes as the rad is aluminum and the block is copper (you need decent protection). The silver NM tubes aid in heat reduction by 2 to 8c depending on heat loads how ever will need changing out at least 1 once a year.

So what can i do on my Heterogeneous Multi-Processing (HMP) Octa Core Linux Computer. Well Here is a small list to wet you appetite.

1) Stream Steam games to my Main TV from my PC
2) Run Kodi
3) Brows the net and play YT videos
4) Run Android and run all the latest apps no problem at all
5) play 3D Android games
6) Play All my emulators and roms
7) Access my outlook and do my MS word work (via android and its free)
8) Do my cad work and run my Laser cutter from it via Linux
9) Duel / triple boot at a flick of a switch from Android to Debian or Ubuntu

The list goes on...... The future is in these little PC's and you can mod the hell out of them.
 
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBxdSw4Rwwk

The XU 4 and Water cooling unit (corsair) Inc the 120mm Fan are powered from a single 12v 5 amp line. The Power controller knocks the line to 5v 4 amps for the XU4 and keeps the 12V 1 amp line for the pump and fan. This will save having two power leads to the system and allows full control and monitoring of the power usage of the XU4 its self. Ive replaced the corsair fan with a Darkside 120mm Nidec - Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan - 1850rpm so a lot more air is pushed through the system once again cooling it even further. Once all tests are run ill rebuild and re do the laser cut parts to incorporate it into an all in one system with a single power lead running the lot.  In the Vid you can see me pushing the chip to its limits via android and CPU burn in test.
 
Yeh it what i have lying around, the air though put is relay good, once i fit the dropper into it this will also be air cooled as they can hit upwards of 85c so not only will we be air cooling the CPU's & GPUs it will be cooling the dropper too. If your going to get fans though get decent ones.....
 
Simplifying the build.

The previous build is complex to assemble so i have re done the drawing and will try a second attempt were its a lot easier to put together. This is a build incorporating the power controller so that the cables do not snag behind the layers of the build. I have added the Power in for the whole build and also the adapter to power converter as well. Ill laser cut these later once the rest of the parts arrive for the second build.

As you can see, you can adjust the build to suit your needs incorporating any type of LCD or power converter.

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