My Mach is due today.

[maverik-sg1]

Unloaded isnt what matters, it's what you get loaded that matters.

G

It's true the mach actually works better with a heat source there to cool - which is why phil tunes his re-gasses using a pre-determined heat source to ensure temps are optimal under load.

I think their designed to cut out at -50 or -60 anyways?

Mav

 

[Master_G]

I think below a certain value a temp sensor alarm goes off or something, not sure what that value is though, they might have fixed that in the firmware now.

G

 

[Geomon]

Ok guys, I'm gonna be cutting my pc case tonight. Any tips??

My plan is to use a jr hacksaw and just try and turn the saw when needed, then put some of that palastic to stop it from cutting the cap tube

What do you think? good plan??

Update:

Hole is cut, just need to be file'd down to smooth of any of the rough bits. gonna complete the install of the mach tomorrow.

 

[Master_G]

Sounds fine, just make sure to tidy up all the little metal shavings, they can cause you big problems if they get in the wrong place.

G

 

[Geomon]

Sounds fine, just make sure to tidy up all the little metal shavings, they can cause you big problems if they get in the wrong place.

G

Yeah I got the oover on it.:wink:

 

[Geomon]

OK got the case cut and the mach is installed . I have tried it out with my old 3500+130nm to make sure I got the install right before going ahead and killing my 57-FX:$ .

The install went smoothly with no real probs apart from having to leave the side panel off the pc case as the cap tube is way out side the case and the manual states that the door panel is not to make contact with the tube:? , what do you guys do? When I switched it on the mach fired up with the pc following about 2 mins later. I,ve been messing around with overclocking but I think my ram is restricting it as the multi is locked at 11 and the ram is only good for 260fsb @ 2-2-2-6 1t.

Temps wise it says -55c on the mach but the dfi monitor software is reading in the 200's so I take it it doesn't read -c's. I am a bit concerned tough about when I run prime 95 torture test the dfi software went up to +6c even tough the mach was reading -45c, this was with a vcore of 1.65. Any ideas on this guys?

Many thanks for all your coment and outting up with me on the run up to my first phase change install. Altough I am starting to think that hard hardest stuff it yet to come .

 

[maverik-sg1]

how do we do it - we let the tube touch the panel lol, it's more of a guide than a golden rule.... with DFI SLI DR its unavoidable.

I always check temps in BIOS to see if contact is good - but in windoes use summit like speedfan as it does allow minus temps.

Nice to see u getting it all up and ready - good luck with clocking the 57.

Mav

 

[K404]

From what i`ve read, a lot of guys see positive temps with the FX57 under load.

I agree with Mav..just from my initial setup testing, the evap hose has to make a nice curve to get to the DFI CPU socket. I`m not taking the risk of bending it to fit...would be quite a lot to ask of it I think.

 

[Geomon]

Right I think I must have a poo contact with the cpu as the bios temps are -14c with 1.62 on my 3500+ newcastle.

Do you think I need to do a remount? well that is when I get so more seal string.

Also are the compresors supposed to get so hot that they burn your fingers? ouch!!

 

[Marvt74]

Yeah compressors run best around 70-80C so no problems there.

Those temps sound about right is that at load or idle?

Also realise sealing string is reusable so no need to throw it away whenever you use it.

 

[Geomon]

Ok I have just installed my 57-FX and have give it a quick overclock with the multi's. At 1.56vcore it'll do 3.3 prime stable. Also I pretty sure this is due to bac temps as at these settings and running prime torture test the smartguard is show +8.

I am also having trouble getting the software to work, when I plug the usb header into the mobo I get the message in the taskbar saying that the mach 2 has been detected but then when I try to install the software it says that the mach 2 use is not plugged in. The main reason I want to get this running is so that I can put the mach into turbo mode and see if the helps the temps any. Any ideas on a way to sort this?

I must be a temp prob as far as overclocking is concerned as both my 3500+ and FX chips saw very little improvment in there overclocks.

I've got 4 washers and the gromit on each hold down bolt. Is this enough?

 

[maverik-sg1]

Use 8 washers on each bolt mate - so that you have to push the bolts with your allen key to get the threads to purchase on on the cpu kit.

+8 degrees is a bit high - but that using the most CPU intensive program available, everyday programs do not apply as much stress to the CPU - I feel sure my FX would go into the pluses on a GT if I was running the same for any length of time (1hr plus) but maybe plus 1 or 2 due to the improved contact I get.

Also make sure they are done up nice and tight - I always re-torque mine after a day or two after first installation to get an extra 1/4 turn from the bolts.

Mav

 

[Geomon]

Use 8 washers on each bolt mate - so that you have to push the bolts with your allen key to get the threads to purchase on on the cpu kit.

+8 degrees is a bit high - but that using the most CPU intensive program available, everyday programs do not apply as much stress to the CPU - I feel sure my FX would go into the pluses on a GT if I was running the same for any length of time (1hr plus) but maybe plus 1 or 2 due to the improved contact I get.

Also make sure they are done up nice and tight - I always re-torque mine after a day or two after first installation to get an extra 1/4 turn from the bolts.

Mav

Mav what vcore do you use on your fx so I have something to compare to? Also you say that your temps would go into the + if you run prime for an hour, is that with a modded mach 2 gt with 507 gas or standard 404?

Is it possible to get the mach to go into turbo mode without the software installed?

Thx mate.

 

[maverik-sg1]

Temps I quoted to you are for standard 404a unit not 507.

Vcore varies - typically 1.68v for 271*13.

Nope you need to install the software first - if the mach is shown as connected but u can't install the software - make sure the pins are connected properly (on a DFI board it means installing in teh row of pins with just the right of pins to mount the header and also to have the black cable on the first pin next to the missing pin.

If that is already done - re-install the firmware and all ahould be well again.

If you are using the lian li kit for the mach box - do what I did - slot a 120mm fan down the front to improve the airflow by blowing air into the rad, used seal string to hold in place and works a treat (helps with load temps).

Mav

 

[Geomon]

Mav I'm not sure I under stand what you mean about the usb pins on the Dfi board. From left to right what colour are they surposed to be?

 

[stocky]

Basically you have a cut pin, the next one is the black wire, then what ever colour comes next (green red white etc...)

Pin below (or above) cut pin is also not used. Next along is black, etc...

 

[Geomon]

Basically you have a cut pin, the next one is the black wire, then what ever colour comes next (green red white etc...)

Pin below (or above) cut pin is also not used. Next along is black, etc...

I have 4 wire, white,green,red and black. On the black wire there are 2 black wires going into 1 pin.

So what is the order od the colours from left to right?

 

[stocky]

I don't have one of those motherboards, I think mine was actually Black, Green, White then Red...

There is a thread knocking about which tells you what each colour means...

 

[stocky]

Excellent, found it: http://www.extremeprometeia.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3395

RED = Power

WHITE = Data-

GREEN = Data+

BLACK = Ground

Now you can cross reference that to your mobo manual

 

[Monge]

On DFI NF4:

From right to left:

Pin 1 VCC White

Pin 3 -Data Green

Pin 5 +Data Red

Pin 7 Ground Black

Or

Pin 2 VCC White

Pin 4 -Data Green

Pin 6 +Data Red

Pin 8 Ground Black

pin 10 free

From left to right:

Black - Red - Green - White (upper row)

or

Pin Free - Black - Red - Green - White