MSI MPower help

G

Genesius

New member
So, I asked what board to buy for my friends build, you said msi mpower, so here I am.

I don't know what msi are on about in this bios! The gigabyte is easy but this is just confusing me.

So some questions for all you MPower users.

What are Primary/secondary plane current limits?
Why are my turbo primary/secondary limits set to 0? What are they?

I presume vdroop offset is just vdroop and that +75% is around high.

What's digital compensation level?

What's CPU I/O voltage?

Thanks in advance
 
You won't need to touch any of that for now except the vdroop. It looks like you've got a pretty up to date BIOS as it is set in % not levels so you are better off using 100% - MSI's vdroop control is less draconian than others so you can comfortably set it higher
 
Are ou sure, it was your post about they gigabyte board that made me use high so I just presumed msi was the same
 
Brilliant.
It's is my 3rd rig in a month,
My rig was done but then I nicked bits off it for a friends rig and am not installing a custom loop in mine.

Used z77xud5h on a hackintosh build for a friend overclocked to 4.4
Used z77xud5h in my rig
Msi mpower z77 in a friends I'm working on now. As soon as I started learning to overclock it became everyone time for a system upgrade! I like it though, 3 times to learn new stuff.

Where would I find Dvid in the msi?
 
MSI doesn't do offset overclocking properly - there's no offset voltage. Look at the ivybridge overclocking guide in my Sig to see how I'd suggest it is done.

Basically leave volts on auto, turn LLC to 100% and up the turbo ratio. It will get you to around 4.4GHz give or take depending on the chip of course.
 
I don't leave the core on auto. This rig I'm working on was supplying the 3.8 stock with 1.245volts. At that voltage I could get 4.3! So I use a fixed vcore. This rig is at 1.325v at 4.5 but I'm not 100% that its stable just yet.
With auto it seems to well over volt.

It's just that the msi is different to the gigabyte so I wasn't sure on a few bits.
 
I think we have misunderstood each other here. When you said DVID I assumed that you were trying to setup an offset voltage/Turbo overclock. On MSI there is no offset voltage and there is no point setting up a Turbo overclock on a fixed voltage - so you have to use auto. The fact you mentioned getting 4.3 is exactly why I said "It will get you to around 4.4GHz give or take" :P.

Yes it will overvolt on auto at stock - every mobo will :D The auto setting still has a limit though - it won't throw more than 1.2xx through it.
 
Master&Puppet said:
I think we have misunderstood each other here. When you said DVID I assumed that you were trying to setup an offset voltage/Turbo overclock. On MSI there is no offset voltage and there is no point setting up a Turbo overclock on a fixed voltage - so you have to use auto. The fact you mentioned getting 4.3 is exactly why I said "It will get you to around 4.4GHz give or take" :P.

Yes it will overvolt on auto at stock - every mobo will :D The auto setting still has a limit though - it won't throw more than 1.2xx through it.
Click to expand...


Okay, ive been at work all day so im jsu getting confused now.

on this msi board i have set up a turbo overclock, so at idle cpu drops to 1600 and turbos to 4.4 underload.
As there is no way to use offset voltage/dvid i have a fixed voltage.
it works its priming now. This is how i have set up my gigabyte rig as well. The other rig i used dvid, but only beause it required slightly less volts and kept temps lower.

am i doing something wrong?
 
I think you are confusing two types of overclocking:

1: A fixed overclock where both the CPU speed and voltage are fixed and do not generally change.

2: A turbo set CPU speed with an offset voltage - I.e. you stipulate a voltage range for the motherboard to play with.

MSI z77 mobos do not have an option to set an offset voltage. What you have setup there is a CPU speed that jumps up and down but you will have set a fixed voltage which does not change.

You aren't doing anything wrong - just that there is not much point using the turbo if you aren't reducing the volts! You might as well turn off EIST and just type 44 into the CPU multiplier box.

If you do want to use the turbo and reduce the volts under load then you need to leave the volts on auto and set the vdroop control to 100% and then see how high you can get the Turbo multipliers :D
 
Okay, but leaving the vcore on auto makes the board supply more voltage than needed to make the CPU stable. I think I'll leave the vcore fixed and either leave the turbo as I have or change it to a fixed multiplier as suggested. I don't think it makes much difference.

On my rig I will use DVID when I get to a multiplier and vcore setting I'm happy with.
Have you delidded your chip? I presume your on 1155 and not 2011
 
I've found that the auto setting won't push more than 1.2x through the chip which is safe and got me to a stable 4.4GHz. It then became a limiting factor to me for getting higher (not enough volts) so I run a fixed OC.

I haven't taken off the lid of my 3570K yet. My chip is stable at 4.6GHz 24/7 so I don't really feel the need to and I've seen a lot of mixed results around regarding it too.
 
Master&Puppet said:
I've found that the auto setting won't push more than 1.2x through the chip which is safe and got me to a stable 4.4GHz. It then became a limiting factor to me for getting higher (not enough volts) so I run a fixed OC.

I haven't taken off the lid of my 3570K yet. My chip is stable at 4.6GHz 24/7 so I don't really feel the need to and I've seen a lot of mixed results around regarding it too.
Click to expand...


the MSI board was pushing 1.245v at stock! thats crazy, far too high. im just playing around with his chip to get it 100 stable with no whea errors ar 4.4.

My 3570k runs stable 4.7 at 1.255v. i still delidded it and i wish i hadnt, i scratched the pcb, i can see copper, but it still boots and works fine, just going to put a thin insulator between the pcb and the IHS to stop any shorts. Im thinking either using a high heat glue or insulating tape around the die and then put the IHS on that. unsure. either way i havent run any test because my system is in bits at the moment. i still left the original glue on as it helps the IHS line up and grip the PCB, but i need to replace it with something else now

Other than people messing up when delidding, ive not heard anything else bad, temps seem to drop between 10-30 degrees depending on TIM and mounting pressure. WHat have your heard?
 
Try using nail varnish on the PCB where you have caught it to prevent shorting out. I think the end result is dependent upon how well it is done although I've seen golden chips made worse by de-lidding.
 
Thanks m&p. someone suggested that in the delidding thread I started. I'm not sure how removing the cover could affect the performance voltage wise, the die isn't scratched.
 
If it is done well then you should see an improvement in voltage handling.

Temperature effects stability which effects the voltage you will set. Better temperatures should allow you to set a slightly lower voltage (for the same clock) and visa versa. It will depend on the amount of temperature drop you experience.
 
Ummm ok, we'll that could potentially be fantastic then. I was at 1.2550v for 4.7ghz. If I can get that even lower then a 5ghz 24/7 OC wouldn't be out of the question.
The corsair 200r rig I did used 1.25v to get to 3.8 turbo when the msi mpower was set to auto! I think I'll see what I can get with 1.3v and go from there.
I may pm you once I'm all up and running if you don't mind?
 
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