Maju's Cosmos
- Thread starter Maju
- Start date
It's a beautiful case as it is but I have ideas.
I started this build a couple of months ago when a channel on my fan controller in my old case burnt out. This then gave me the excuse to replace the fan controller. Alas I went a bit mad and so this is what I now have to play with.
The aim of this build is to get a quieter computer - as well as making it look good.
MSI M2N32 SLI Deluxe Motherboard
AMD64 X2 6000+
XFX 8800 GTX with Thermalright HR03+ fitted with Noctua NP12 Fan
4GB OCZ Platinum 800Mhtz Ram
Audigy 2ZS Platinum
Asus DVD/RW
2*250gb WD sataII, 1*250gb Hitachi sataII, 1*160gb Maxtor sataII, 160gb Maxtror IDE
OCZ GameXstream 750w PSU
Coolermaster Cosmos RC1000
First up was a relatively simple fan swap for the PSU replacing the OCZ fan with a Sharkeagle 1000. This isn't the most powerfull fan but it is quiet and two months down the line I have had no problems with the psu overheating.
Next up was dismantelling the case, sanding, priming and painting
Whilst that was drying I decided to replace the fan on the Zalman9500 with a noiseblocker fan which is a lot quieter although it also has a lower cfm. Again after a couple of months cpu isn't overheating and idles at about 34*, going upto around 52* under extreme and prolonged load
I started this build a couple of months ago when a channel on my fan controller in my old case burnt out. This then gave me the excuse to replace the fan controller. Alas I went a bit mad and so this is what I now have to play with.
The aim of this build is to get a quieter computer - as well as making it look good.
MSI M2N32 SLI Deluxe Motherboard
AMD64 X2 6000+
XFX 8800 GTX with Thermalright HR03+ fitted with Noctua NP12 Fan
4GB OCZ Platinum 800Mhtz Ram
Audigy 2ZS Platinum
Asus DVD/RW
2*250gb WD sataII, 1*250gb Hitachi sataII, 1*160gb Maxtor sataII, 160gb Maxtror IDE
OCZ GameXstream 750w PSU
Coolermaster Cosmos RC1000
First up was a relatively simple fan swap for the PSU replacing the OCZ fan with a Sharkeagle 1000. This isn't the most powerfull fan but it is quiet and two months down the line I have had no problems with the psu overheating.
Next up was dismantelling the case, sanding, priming and painting
Whilst that was drying I decided to replace the fan on the Zalman9500 with a noiseblocker fan which is a lot quieter although it also has a lower cfm. Again after a couple of months cpu isn't overheating and idles at about 34*, going upto around 52* under extreme and prolonged load
With the primer dry it was time to apply to colour
And when it had dried, several coats of clear laquer later this is what it looked like.
Pretty good if I say so myself.
Next the fun part of putting the insides back together and the painstaking task of trying to manage the cables in any sort of reasonable way
Also a word to the wise. If you are going to try and speed up the drying time of paint on plastic sufaces - such as the dvd fascia with a halogen light, make sure it isn't too close to the surface. It melts. See above.
This has since been replaced.
Shortly after reaching this point I moved house so things came to a standstill for a while. I still want to do something with the side panels rather than leave them plain aluminum.
Next up, phase two when I discovered that it was still too noisy in my new house. - well maybe thats going a bit too far but its a good enough excuse for me.
And when it had dried, several coats of clear laquer later this is what it looked like.
Pretty good if I say so myself.
Next the fun part of putting the insides back together and the painstaking task of trying to manage the cables in any sort of reasonable way
Also a word to the wise. If you are going to try and speed up the drying time of paint on plastic sufaces - such as the dvd fascia with a halogen light, make sure it isn't too close to the surface. It melts. See above.
This has since been replaced.
Shortly after reaching this point I moved house so things came to a standstill for a while. I still want to do something with the side panels rather than leave them plain aluminum.
Next up, phase two when I discovered that it was still too noisy in my new house. - well maybe thats going a bit too far but its a good enough excuse for me.
So the fans are still making too much noise for my liking, I've just done some more work and been paid. Put those two together and I now have this lot.
So I am now the proud owner of D-Tek FuZion v2 CPU block, GPU block and heatsink. Res, Xsilence fans, Black Ice extreme III rad, 1/2" ID tubing, Lights and other assorted bits and bobs.
Unfortunately I am still waiting for some other bits to arrive which I need before commencing with the watercooling install, so in the meantime I have been doing what I can before ripping everything apart.
Very minor mod but satisfying none-the-less, replacing the top of the pump with something a bit better.
originally I had planned something different for the side panel but as it stands now I have decided to go for a window.
After hunting around for some acrylic that was cheaper than AC Ryans I found a place not to far away and bought 600x600x5mm sheet for a tenner. Next job was masking and cutting the case panel and then fitting the acrylic.
Rather than just lay the sheet against the inside face of the panel I wanted to project the acrylic through the hole and thought using a router would do the job.
This took a fair while and unfortunately even though I had clamped a guide to the panel the end result wasn't ideal, mainly due to the fact that I'd bodged cutting the case panel and it wasn't square. Fitting some trim to the cut edges didn't solve the problem either plus it didn't look how I wanted it too.
So I am now the proud owner of D-Tek FuZion v2 CPU block, GPU block and heatsink. Res, Xsilence fans, Black Ice extreme III rad, 1/2" ID tubing, Lights and other assorted bits and bobs.
Unfortunately I am still waiting for some other bits to arrive which I need before commencing with the watercooling install, so in the meantime I have been doing what I can before ripping everything apart.
Very minor mod but satisfying none-the-less, replacing the top of the pump with something a bit better.
originally I had planned something different for the side panel but as it stands now I have decided to go for a window.
After hunting around for some acrylic that was cheaper than AC Ryans I found a place not to far away and bought 600x600x5mm sheet for a tenner. Next job was masking and cutting the case panel and then fitting the acrylic.
Rather than just lay the sheet against the inside face of the panel I wanted to project the acrylic through the hole and thought using a router would do the job.
This took a fair while and unfortunately even though I had clamped a guide to the panel the end result wasn't ideal, mainly due to the fact that I'd bodged cutting the case panel and it wasn't square. Fitting some trim to the cut edges didn't solve the problem either plus it didn't look how I wanted it too.
So the solution was another trip to get a slightly thicker 6mm sheet of acrylic and re-cut the case panel making sure that this time it was a square hole. I really don't know how I managed to cut the first one so badly.
I also changed my mind on the window size and shortened it so as to hide the blue knobs on the quick release drive bays. The hole is also square this time.
Second time around it is much better
Instead of using a router, this time I decided to try using a circular saw with much better success.
I also changed my mind on the window size and shortened it so as to hide the blue knobs on the quick release drive bays. The hole is also square this time.
Second time around it is much better
Instead of using a router, this time I decided to try using a circular saw with much better success.
Now that the window fits I have to clean up the case panel.
Another word to the wise, if you are going to be drawing on a finished surface make sure you don't use permanent marker.
As a result of using permanent marker I ended up having to sand the hole panel for over an hour to get rid of the line. Unfortunately where the fixing brackets are mounted on the inside of the panel it has created a very slight rise on the exterior. Normally you can't see it however after sanding it has left several over bright wear spots.
That aside the actual window works really well. I've also delved into the art of flame polishing and after a few dummy runs polished the exposed edge of the window
and when it's fitted into the panel I think it looks pretty good.
Another word to the wise, if you are going to be drawing on a finished surface make sure you don't use permanent marker.
As a result of using permanent marker I ended up having to sand the hole panel for over an hour to get rid of the line. Unfortunately where the fixing brackets are mounted on the inside of the panel it has created a very slight rise on the exterior. Normally you can't see it however after sanding it has left several over bright wear spots.
That aside the actual window works really well. I've also delved into the art of flame polishing and after a few dummy runs polished the exposed edge of the window
and when it's fitted into the panel I think it looks pretty good.
Before fixing it in place i've got some transparent uv paint which I shall paint on the protruding edges so that when the lights are turned on it should give a nice highlight on the protruding acrylic.
I have also been getting to grips with the electrics - with the help of several people in the case mod and electrics forums on TPU.
Here, after a bit of head scratching, is the switch setup for the lights. I shall wait until everything arrives before wiring and installing it but at least I know it works now.
Also I've been trying to figure out what to do with the fans. After reading several reports of the Kama meter not liking having more than one fan per channel and dying i've raided my bits-and-bobs box and found a beefier potentiometer (or whatever it's called).
I'm planning on wiring all the rad fans together and controlling them with this. The plan is to replace the volume knob in the kama meter and put the new fan speed knob in it's place.
I shall keep one of the Kama meters fan channels free so that I can plug the rpm monitor wire in. It appears to work - although looking closer as I write I notice that it is only reading 540 rpm. Shall have to investigate that one.
And finally, beware of catching a falling fan. The OCZ one out of the psu is quite powerfull and at full speed it bites.
I have also been getting to grips with the electrics - with the help of several people in the case mod and electrics forums on TPU.
Here, after a bit of head scratching, is the switch setup for the lights. I shall wait until everything arrives before wiring and installing it but at least I know it works now.
Also I've been trying to figure out what to do with the fans. After reading several reports of the Kama meter not liking having more than one fan per channel and dying i've raided my bits-and-bobs box and found a beefier potentiometer (or whatever it's called).
I'm planning on wiring all the rad fans together and controlling them with this. The plan is to replace the volume knob in the kama meter and put the new fan speed knob in it's place.
I shall keep one of the Kama meters fan channels free so that I can plug the rpm monitor wire in. It appears to work - although looking closer as I write I notice that it is only reading 540 rpm. Shall have to investigate that one.
And finally, beware of catching a falling fan. The OCZ one out of the psu is quite powerfull and at full speed it bites.
Well,slightly frustrating news. Heard back from Watercooling UK and my parts won't be dispatched until after 22nd June so i'm limited to the smaller aesthetic jobs for now.
First up is the top shroud.
Because I am mounting my rad on the ceiling of the case I need to improve the ventilation. So this is what I have
Have never used mesh before so hopefully it won't be too bad.
After some delicate use of the jigsaw and a pleasant hour sitting in the evening sun trimming the hole with a stanly blade this is what I am left with.
After looking round the net for a helpful tutorial on meshing and failing I decided
to cut out a couple of wooden blocks the size of the holes, mount them in the workmate and then pin the cut mesh panel to the top.
Cutting this stuff is a labour of love which has resulted with more blood being split (twice). The cut edges are razor sharp. Also a case of using the right tools for the job. Unfortunately I don't have a pair of tin snips so had to make do with some bluntish wire cutters before resorting to the jigsaw. Anyway, succeded and then commenced on the satifying job of hammering the edges over the template block
A little while later and this is what I have achieved
I was and am pleased with the result. I haven't fixed them to the shroud yet but shall probably use some black doublesided sticky foam that I have left over from a speaker wiring episode a few years back. Alternatively I might just superglue them in place.
With the shroud fitted it'll certainly allow for enough ventilation and doesn't look to bad.
And a comparison of how it looked before
am not sure yet whether I leave the mesh as it is or paint the mesh the same pearlised purple as the case. Or I might even leave the mesh as it is and paint the black shroud purple.
Might be nice to keep the silver theme so as to match with the handles.
Also took the easy route out and have painted the side panels to match the case. An hour using a polishing compound on the paint has made no appreciable difference so I mught just leave them as they are for now.
First up is the top shroud.
Because I am mounting my rad on the ceiling of the case I need to improve the ventilation. So this is what I have
Have never used mesh before so hopefully it won't be too bad.
After some delicate use of the jigsaw and a pleasant hour sitting in the evening sun trimming the hole with a stanly blade this is what I am left with.
After looking round the net for a helpful tutorial on meshing and failing I decided
to cut out a couple of wooden blocks the size of the holes, mount them in the workmate and then pin the cut mesh panel to the top.
Cutting this stuff is a labour of love which has resulted with more blood being split (twice). The cut edges are razor sharp. Also a case of using the right tools for the job. Unfortunately I don't have a pair of tin snips so had to make do with some bluntish wire cutters before resorting to the jigsaw. Anyway, succeded and then commenced on the satifying job of hammering the edges over the template block
A little while later and this is what I have achieved
I was and am pleased with the result. I haven't fixed them to the shroud yet but shall probably use some black doublesided sticky foam that I have left over from a speaker wiring episode a few years back. Alternatively I might just superglue them in place.
With the shroud fitted it'll certainly allow for enough ventilation and doesn't look to bad.
And a comparison of how it looked before
am not sure yet whether I leave the mesh as it is or paint the mesh the same pearlised purple as the case. Or I might even leave the mesh as it is and paint the black shroud purple.
Might be nice to keep the silver theme so as to match with the handles.
Also took the easy route out and have painted the side panels to match the case. An hour using a polishing compound on the paint has made no appreciable difference so I mught just leave them as they are for now.
Back at it.
Only a little mod but it'll make things neater and easier.
As I don't use the volume control on the kama meter I thought i'd replace it with a fan controller man enough to run the three fans for the rad.
Fortunately the volume control wasn't soldered onto the pcb, just a seperate unit that bolts on and plugs in. This was good news as I really didn't fancy desoldering it.
Removed wires from the new -(read butchered) potentiometer and after filing the side of the casing down so that it fitted squarely and dremmeling off the fitting lug, Plus filing down one of the pins on the pcb so that it didn't touch the potentiometer, it was a simple case of attatching a couple of wires ready for when it's fitted and bolting it on. Brilliant!
and with the faceplate fitted you'd never know the difference - (top right knob is new)
Next up a small paint job on the old fan controller which shall be controlling the auxillary fans for the rad. Having to use this one as when turned down it switches the fan off and I want to have the option of running these two fans underneath the rad as they are both pretty powerful but bloody noisy - to use when/if that extra cooling is required.
Also had to redril the casing so the mounting holes match up with the 5 1/2" mounting adaptor
I've also spent some time with some polishing compound to smooth out the paintwork on the window panel followed by a couple of coats of car wax to give it a bit of a glossy sheen.
The first coat of transparent UV laquer has also been applied around the edge of the window but before I fit that I want to give it a few more coats to hopefully ensure it'll glow as desired.
Now on to the bit that i've been puzzling over for a while - mounting the Rad on the ceiling of the case.
Because the Cosmos RC1000 can accomodate 2*140mm fans it wasn't a simple bolt on and forget about it job. So after a fair bit of pondering I've made a fitting plate out of perspec and i'll cut the case out to maximise air flow.
Set up and ready to cut
Bugger !
Learn from my foolishness and drill a small pilot hole before drilling a larger hole close to an edge.
Thankfully the superglue worked
And finally cut.
Only a little mod but it'll make things neater and easier.
As I don't use the volume control on the kama meter I thought i'd replace it with a fan controller man enough to run the three fans for the rad.
Fortunately the volume control wasn't soldered onto the pcb, just a seperate unit that bolts on and plugs in. This was good news as I really didn't fancy desoldering it.
Removed wires from the new -(read butchered) potentiometer and after filing the side of the casing down so that it fitted squarely and dremmeling off the fitting lug, Plus filing down one of the pins on the pcb so that it didn't touch the potentiometer, it was a simple case of attatching a couple of wires ready for when it's fitted and bolting it on. Brilliant!
and with the faceplate fitted you'd never know the difference - (top right knob is new)
Next up a small paint job on the old fan controller which shall be controlling the auxillary fans for the rad. Having to use this one as when turned down it switches the fan off and I want to have the option of running these two fans underneath the rad as they are both pretty powerful but bloody noisy - to use when/if that extra cooling is required.
Also had to redril the casing so the mounting holes match up with the 5 1/2" mounting adaptor
I've also spent some time with some polishing compound to smooth out the paintwork on the window panel followed by a couple of coats of car wax to give it a bit of a glossy sheen.
The first coat of transparent UV laquer has also been applied around the edge of the window but before I fit that I want to give it a few more coats to hopefully ensure it'll glow as desired.
Now on to the bit that i've been puzzling over for a while - mounting the Rad on the ceiling of the case.
Because the Cosmos RC1000 can accomodate 2*140mm fans it wasn't a simple bolt on and forget about it job. So after a fair bit of pondering I've made a fitting plate out of perspec and i'll cut the case out to maximise air flow.
Set up and ready to cut
Bugger !
Learn from my foolishness and drill a small pilot hole before drilling a larger hole close to an edge.
Thankfully the superglue worked
And finally cut.
Test fitting - It's going to work
The down side of this approach is that the fans are going to have to be turned upside down in order to pull air through the rad. Not a problem but aesthetically less pleasing.
Figuring out how to mount the radiator has also been a pain as the fan holes in the top of the case don't line up with the rads fan holes. Thankfully I still have some spare perspex so another fitting plate made and I now ready to cut the case and mount the rad.
Although not strictly neccessary flame polished the acrylic just to give it a nicer finish. Looks great
Alas I don't have a workshop at the mo and I don't want to annoy the neighbours so I can't cut the case till tomorrow. Thankfully (in the nicest possible way) my girlfriend is laid up in bed with a bad back at the moment.
Just as well really
I've also gone a bit mad and just bought a second 8800 GTX to go SLI
Hopefully I won't be overloading the loops capacity and that the DDC ultra pump will handle another block ok.
Oh Happy Days
So thats where I am up to at the memment.
Still gots lots to do in the meantime and shall keep you posted.
Cheers
The down side of this approach is that the fans are going to have to be turned upside down in order to pull air through the rad. Not a problem but aesthetically less pleasing.
Figuring out how to mount the radiator has also been a pain as the fan holes in the top of the case don't line up with the rads fan holes. Thankfully I still have some spare perspex so another fitting plate made and I now ready to cut the case and mount the rad.
Although not strictly neccessary flame polished the acrylic just to give it a nicer finish. Looks great
Alas I don't have a workshop at the mo and I don't want to annoy the neighbours so I can't cut the case till tomorrow. Thankfully (in the nicest possible way) my girlfriend is laid up in bed with a bad back at the moment.
Just as well really
I've also gone a bit mad and just bought a second 8800 GTX to go SLI
Hopefully I won't be overloading the loops capacity and that the DDC ultra pump will handle another block ok.
Oh Happy Days
So thats where I am up to at the memment.
Still gots lots to do in the meantime and shall keep you posted.
Cheers
Silentsnake
New member
wow maju Good job mate im looking to do a case mod and will definantly be PM'ing you for advice 
Gd job cant wait to see the finish
what made you choose them particular colors?
Gd job cant wait to see the finish
what made you choose them particular colors?
Fascinating watching it all come together m8. The colours work really well together and the silver mesh adds a contrast to the darker surround, while complimenting the handles. Hell I sound like Laurence Suellen Bowfinger or whatever his face is, lol.
Looking forward to seeing it all finished, you have literally spilled blood over that build, which seems necessary in retrospect, to get it exactly as you want it.
Looking forward to seeing it all finished, you have literally spilled blood over that build, which seems necessary in retrospect, to get it exactly as you want it.
Silentsnake
New member
name='Diablo13' said:
lol diablo you sound like a real visionary and seems like you like to follow me around thread by thread
:yumyum:... roflLMAO @ Silentsnake.
Yes it seems like I'm following you doesn't it. I just saw the pics and was interested in how it came together. I know we get some really nice builds on here, but for some reason that one took my fancy, well I am still fairly new here.
I need to know when its finished so I can pop round and steal it! :rollingla
Yes it seems like I'm following you doesn't it. I just saw the pics and was interested in how it came together. I know we get some really nice builds on here, but for some reason that one took my fancy, well I am still fairly new here.
I need to know when its finished so I can pop round and steal it! :rollingla
Well today has been quite productive
First up it was time to strip the case down to a bare shell ready for cutting.
Before starting on this latest round of improvements the hard drive's were running at about 40-42*c which whilst ok is a little hot for my liking. So lets put a fan in to actively draw air up over the drives and into the case.
I've opted for a 80mm fan as all in all it makes it a lot easier than trying to fit a 120mm and I don't have any 92mm to hand.
Lots of drilling and dremmelling later and the fan fits perfectly. I've also drilled the supporting upstands so that I can screw into the side of the fan casing to get a secure fit. Unfortunately there is only about 12mm from the fan bottom to the hard drive cage so I hope that that isn't going to cause any excessive turbulence noise but seeing as it's a quiet fan anyway and i'm probably going to be running it at 7v anyway I think that it should be ok.
First up it was time to strip the case down to a bare shell ready for cutting.
Before starting on this latest round of improvements the hard drive's were running at about 40-42*c which whilst ok is a little hot for my liking. So lets put a fan in to actively draw air up over the drives and into the case.
I've opted for a 80mm fan as all in all it makes it a lot easier than trying to fit a 120mm and I don't have any 92mm to hand.
Lots of drilling and dremmelling later and the fan fits perfectly. I've also drilled the supporting upstands so that I can screw into the side of the fan casing to get a secure fit. Unfortunately there is only about 12mm from the fan bottom to the hard drive cage so I hope that that isn't going to cause any excessive turbulence noise but seeing as it's a quiet fan anyway and i'm probably going to be running it at 7v anyway I think that it should be ok.
Silentsnake
New member
more picturessss pleaseeee
