Ivybridge 3770k De-lid

jamesriley94

New member
I had nothing to do yesterday, so I decided to play around and de-lid my processor, and replace the thermal paste with NT-H1.

If any of you aren't familiar with this - In previous generations, Intel have soldered the IHS to the processor, allowing for better heat transfer between the processor itself, and the IHS. With Ivybridge however, they decided to use thermal compound (and a cheap one at that) between the IHS and the processor. This resulted in higher temperatures at high overclocks than previous versions - ie - Sandybridge.

If you want to do this yourself, you need to cut the glue around the heatsink with a razorblade or very sharp knife - but I'd advise you watched a youtube tutorial on how to do it, as it will be easier to follow than any guide I could produce on here.

Now, considering every chip is different, along with the choice of thermal paste you use, and even more so with watercooling, my results will never be reflected on other's systems (if any of you do try to do this). So I'd probably say this was more for information of what to expect, as there isn't really a proper guide, or any information for that matter on OC3D.


Test set up:
Parts: Switch 810, Asus P8Z77-v Deluxe, GTX670, AX850, 8gb Mushkin Blackline 1600mhz
Cooling: Alphacool UT60 360mm,Laing D5, XSPC Raystorm CPU block, XSPC Raystorm 680 GPU Block
Fans on the radiator are Silverstone AP121 in push/pull.

I did a number of tests, at different overclocks, different fan speeds, and also disabled the GPU on the majority of tests so I could reach higher overclocks, to see what different the de-lid makes at the higher levels.
I ran Prime95 for half an hour (certain tests recorded at different stages between that too)


So to start of, at stock clocks (3.5ghz (Turbo 3.9ghz)) with core voltage at 1.025v - fans at 12v, pump at speed 5 - with GPU disabled:

TRqKJxZ.png


Then, at 4.5ghz, core voltage at 1.205v - fans at 5v, pump at speed 1 - GPU enabled:

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Next, 4.6ghz, 1.325v, fans at 12v, with the pump at max speed - GPU disabled

6KrRzG8.png


Lastly, 4.8ghz, 1.4v, fans and pump at max speeds - GPU disabled:

xvi4wuG.png


Temperatures were measured with HWmonitor, and represent each individual core of the 3770k.


Ambient temperatures were roughly the same - don't have equipment to measure properly, however.

So, to conclude, the de-lid has definitely made a difference to temperatures. Whether it's worth the risk is another question though.
I will say as I was running out of thermal paste, I probably haven't done the best job on applying it, so temps may even be a little lower in the de-lid conditions.
As others across the internet have reported 20 degrees Celsius drops in temperatures, I've definitely not experienced that. But, I do think the differences are significant.

The actual process isn't particularly easy to do. Mine required a lot of effort to pry off the IHS, and trying to wiggle the blade, or lever underneath it only resorted in damaging the PCB. But as long as you're relatively careful, I personally don't think there's much risk involved in doing it.

Also, going from my results, there's more of a benefit in doing this as you push the CPU more and more. So I don't really see much point in it unless you are pushing for the highest overclock possible.

Overall, I wouldn't expect doing this to massively reduce your temps. But, if you think it's worth the effort, and have a backup plan if things go wrong, then I'd recommend doing it. The latter tests showed around a 10 degree drop in temps, which is still pretty significant. So if you want an extra hundred mhz or so on an overclock, then this is something to consider.
 
all i can say is your brave i would never do that then im not really a massive overclocker like some.
kudos for doing it and a great writeup as long as your happy its what matters :D
 
20c drops are from using Liquid Metal, Coollaboratory Liquid Pro or Phobya Liquid Metal will get you temp drops of 15~20c or more (the or more I've only seen on people who had 90+ temps before delidding).
 
james, thank you for this review/exercise. did you delid and rep[lace the TIM and
reinstall the lid or did you go directly to the cores?
 
20c drops are from using Liquid Metal, Coollaboratory Liquid Pro or Phobya Liquid Metal will get you temp drops of 15~20c or more (the or more I've only seen on people who had 90+ temps before delidding).

That may be so, but tbh, NT-H1 is one of the best thermal compounds out there. If the others really made an extra 10 degrees difference on top of NT-H1, I may try it some day.

james, thank you for this review/exercise. did you delid and rep[lace the TIM and
reinstall the lid or did you go directly to the cores?

The lid is reinstalled - not glued however, just kept on with the pressure from the motherboard retention clamp. I'm not sure if you can run it delidded tbh. The retention clamp clamps down on the two sides of the IHS which holds the whole thing in place. Without it, a) I'm not sure if the clamp would be able to clamp down that extra couple of millimetres well enough, and b) the clamps would be directly on the PCB which I don't think would be the best idea.

Might play around with it again sometime. But when I was delidding it, my waterblock leaked all into the CPU socket, so I'm a little reluctant to take it out. Also, I'm completely out of thermal paste now. Have some more back at home, but won't be able to play again for a couple of weeks :p
 
That may be so, but tbh, NT-H1 is one of the best thermal compounds out there. If the others really made an extra 10 degrees difference on top of NT-H1, I may try it some day.



The lid is reinstalled - not glued however, just kept on with the pressure from the motherboard retention clamp. I'm not sure if you can run it delidded tbh. The retention clamp clamps down on the two sides of the IHS which holds the whole thing in place. Without it, a) I'm not sure if the clamp would be able to clamp down that extra couple of millimetres well enough, and b) the clamps would be directly on the PCB which I don't think would be the best idea.

Might play around with it again sometime. But when I was delidding it, my waterblock leaked all into the CPU socket, so I'm a little reluctant to take it out. Also, I'm completely out of thermal paste now. Have some more back at home, but won't be able to play again for a couple of weeks :p

There is a thread on XtremeSystems about delidding and I've personally done it with my i5 3570k and got -15~20c across all my cores, there's just that much of a difference when using liquid metal vs traditional TIMs when it comes to the die.

You can mount it directly to the die (and get better temps iirc) but you can have to remove the socket clamp and you risk applying too much pressure and crushing the die.
 
I may try some at a later date then.

I don't think I'll go as far to take the clamp off however. I do need to find a new place for a 24/7 overclock now temps are a bit lower.
 
This is definitely something I want to try, a 10C drop is just too tempting. Gathering up the balls to take a blade to a $220 CPU is hard though!
 
I think there's a lot to be gained by mounting directly to the die, however as has been said above - you have to be really careful.

I got my 3770k yesterday, and I've not pushed it pretty much at all. With my custom loop, I'm getting upwards of 70*C at stock settings. Pushed to 4.3 at stock Vcore - pretty much no change in temps. What's really annoying is that the chip is hot and the water is cold, so there's definitely something mucking up heat transfer. I think I'll delid mine today, stick some AS5 in the mix and see what happens. Got some Phobya Liquid Metal coming in a couple of days, if AS5 helps, I'll stick some LM on and see what happens, that stuff is supposed to be like 10-12*C better :notworthy:
 
Hey James, I am about to play the delidding game with my rig and I have a question for you. A lot of people on forums recommend using Coollaboratory Liquid Pro or Ultra or some other liquid metal solution. I tried to buy some but it was sold out so I have to use my supply of IC Diamond for the time being. There is one catch though; I purchased an EK PreciseMount kit for my block so I will be cooling the chip directly without the IHS. Is IC Diamond safe to use on a naked die?
 
Hey James, I am about to play the delidding game with my rig and I have a question for you. A lot of people on forums recommend using Coollaboratory Liquid Pro or Ultra or some other liquid metal solution. I tried to buy some but it was sold out so I have to use my supply of IC Diamond for the time being. There is one catch though; I purchased an EK PreciseMount kit for my block so I will be cooling the chip directly without the IHS. Is IC Diamond safe to use on a naked die?

I've seen some people say IC Diamond isn't safe to use as the diamond particles in it can scratch the die itself, but I'm unsure on how true this is tbh.

Considering CL Liquid Pro/Ultra are completely conductive, I'd personally not trust myself using that either. Any drip from the block to your motherboard and chances are you've killed it.

Maybe think about going with the IHS - get CL Liquid Pro - order it from somewhere else if need be, and use that between the Die and the IHS, then maybe go for IC Diamond between the IHS and the block?
 
I've never heard of that tbh. As long as it's non-conductive it should be fine

I use NT-H1 for everything nowadays and find it great.

Maybe use something standard until the CL Liquid Pro becomes available?
 
I've read good things about that NT-H1 stuff. I am just a little apprehensive about using a conductive solution and you brought up a good point about diamond-based solutions. I have to remove the entire CPU retention mechanism from my motherboard in order for this EK mount kit to work so everything on the PCB of the CPU would be exposed. So yeah, I'll just use some standard solution until I find out more since this new mounting hardware is still quite new to the market.

update/
Now that I think about it one of my graphics cards has IC diamond on it because I ran out of Shin Etsu so there might be a chance that it could be safe. Do you know who else I can ask about that?
 
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Now that I think about it one of my graphics cards has IC diamond on it because I ran out of Shin Etsu so there might be a chance that it could be safe. Do you know who else I can ask about that?

IC diamond is safe enough. It isn't conductive...

But due to the diamond particles within it, you may run the risk of marking/scratching your die on a micro-level. This may impact performance in the future.

It's generally fine on an IHS as it'll be stronger than the plastic of the die itself.
 
So the die is covered with plastic? Do you know how thick it is? Oh and thank you for posting your test results on this thread. Very encouraging information especially for me. My CPU has real bad heat issues as you know.
 
So the die is covered with plastic? Do you know how thick it is? Oh and thank you for posting your test results on this thread. Very encouraging information especially for me. My CPU has real bad heat issues as you know.

Dunno about covered - is the die itself not made from plastic? Some plastic, some silicone? I don't really know...

Either way - it's not as hard as the metal IHS
 
Hmm. I just ordered some CL Liquid Ultra. Finally found some in stock at another retailer. I'll let you know how it all goes in my log. Wish me luck!
 
Deliding is not so bad if you use the Vice method. My i7 3770K @4.7GHz 1.32v would hit 84c using intel burn test.

Using MX-2 on the die and IHS, I got a 12c drop to 72c.

Then with CL Liquid Ultra on the die and MX-4 on the IHS I went to a 26c drop to 58c.



After that drop im now running 4.9GHz 1.45v at 70c :cool:







 
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