Is my W/C setup good to go?

haofeng

New member
I've decided to do my first w/c loop, and after doing a decent amount of research, i think i've got the setup i want. All i'm cooling at the mo is my q6600 and i'm debating about cooling my 680i nb too. later on, i may also do my gpu. It's kinda complicated cos i havent upgraded my gpu yet, which is a 8600gts, and i will probably get 2 9800gtx's in sli, since the recent price cuts make it decent value(i think:D)(pity cant do 4850 crossfire:().

anyway, this is my shopping list

pa120.2 (already got it off ebay)

ek supreme acetal

1/2" tygon

some feser compression fittings

anti-kink coils

either laing d5 or ddc(very confused about different models) with xspc top.

please give advice about the setup and pump choice in particular. happy to supply any missing details...

thanks guys

Haofeng
 
Urm, id swap out the tygon for XSPC stuff. Simply for cost reasons. And the XSPC tube isdam good.

As for the pump just grab a DDC ultra (with the XSPC top, as you said) and don't worry. It's only a little more than the pro, and you should be able to cover the extra cost form the saving on the tubing. Tygon is that expensive :-/.
 
+ the ultra will give u better flow rate which you will need if ur going to water cool the cpu, nb and graphics cards in one loop.
 
ok, yeah, I guess tygon isn't exactly dirt cheap, but I thought since you only use a few feet of the stuff, it wouldn't make taht much of a difference.

I'm still a bit confused about the different ddc models...ddc+,ddc ultra, ddc 1, ddc 3.2,swftech mcp350, swftech mcp355??? Are sme of them just different names of the same products, or are all of these different pumps in their own right? Also, i've heard that some of the ddc's have reliability and heat issues...

And is this alright, or do i need some amendments:

fillport

/

pump->rad->cpu->nb->gpu->back to pump

a question about fillports, do you just leave it in the loop once the coolant is in the loop?

planning to get some feser cooling fluid as well.

cheers guys for answering
 
Just go for a laing DDC ultra. Probably the best compact pump, then whichever top takes your fancy..

Is the Rad you bought used? if so make sure it's wells cleaned before you use it.. Dont want any nasties floating around.

As for fill ports, yeh just screw the top back on and leave it in there. :)
 
yeah, i got it used 4 35 quid. a few chips and stuff, but nothing major. amyway, with the cleaning, i've already rinsed it out with water, and i've heard of people using vinegar to wash it out, but i'm not sure what stuff to use and how to go about it as to not damage the rad. any pointers?
 
name='ReD.SkY' said:
Cleaning

Before installing, and for regular maintenence.



Note: Regular maintenence is required whenever the water in you loop looks weird, has things floating, or is real cloudy.

Almost all water blocks and radiators have to be cleaned before using them. Its not required, but its better to do it before, instead of after. If your radiator is dirty, and you install it, withing a few days you will have film on your tubes, and the water will contain particles that will eventually clog waterblocks, which in turns will kill performance. A dirty radiator will also turn your water milky.

Since I dont recommend aluminum, im not going to show you how to clean it, but beware, vinegar eats aluminum.



Cleaning Copper Water Blocks


Its way easier and safer to take apart your water blocks before you clean them. And, to clean them, we will need vinegar and distilled water. Ketchup can also be used to clean copper, but dont leave it on too long (4 hr max) or cloudy stains will appear. We use distilled water because tap water usually contains chlorine and sodium, and other additives that are not good for watercooling.

1. Run some water onto the block, and brush all the jets/pins with a toothbrush to remove debris. Toothpaste will also clean waterblocks btw.

2. Soak the Copper Base only, in a cup or bowl of vinegar. You can do this for a while. But after 10hrs, it wont get any cleaner.

3. Just brush the other parts that come in contact with water with a toothbrush (toothpaste optional).

4. Rinse all parts with distilled water, make sure you rins very well as vinegar destroys PVC tubing.



Cleaning Copper Radiators


Radiators are the parts that are almost always dirty, and the ones that contain most of the dirt. So cleaning them is essential. They are a little harder to clean than water blocks, but they use the same cleaning ingredients. (Scrubbing bubbles is also known to work good. Its easy to use, just spary in in, fill the rad with water, then let sit for a little, and then rinse.)

1. Lay radiator horizontally, then fill with vinegar. It would be good to make sure the vinegar isnt touching the barbs, as sometimes the nickel plating is weak, and will get eaten by the vinegar. So best thing to do would be to remoze the barbs before using the vinegar.

2. Cover the holes for the barbs or plug the barbs, and shake the whole radiator. Shake it long and hard.

3. Let it soak for around 12 hours.

4. Rinse, and repeat.

5. Now, flushing out the vinegar and dirt... I connect a tube to the rad, then connect a funnel to the tube, then pour distilled water in, then shake the rad and then drain it. You should do this as many times as posssible. More is better when it comes to flushing :)

There you go.
 
tygon isnt that much only $2 a foot, other tubing costs just 2-3 cents less so ur not saving that much plus as with most everything u get wat u pay for.
 
name='agentx' said:
tygon isnt that much only $2 a foot, other tubing costs just 2-3 cents less so ur not saving that much plus as with most everything u get wat u pay for.

Here in the UK:

Tygon = £8pm

XSPC = £2.5pm

Fair enough if this guy is from the states and its that close in price go for it. But here, its just tubing...
 
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