Is 12/13 degrees at idle bad?

bullcrew

New member
I ask only because I put a coolit on and vented the top fron of the case with an additional exhaust fan. I have 4 case fans and + PSU/Coolit and HD fans.

My shop was 100+ degrees so I built it for staying cool and mild Overclock of 3.4 on a e6850. Well temp got to 85 last night in the shop and the comp went to 15/16 degrees at idle and this morning its 75 degrees out and its at 12/13.

Can is or will it be a problem.......???????????
 

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name='Pat123' said:
17c wow.. your either doing something VERY right or the temperature diode isnt working right.

Its the coolit mtec cooler and its 14 degrees on the guru 12/13 on core temp. the air coming out of the case is alot cooler than the outside air.

Do I need to reduce fan speeds? I wanted cool and built it for staying cool including knowing my airflow and exhaust on the case. (mocked 3 different spots for the upper exhasut fan till I hit it and the temps dropped 3 degrees.) 1 spot was the sweet spot.

Seriosly this isnt a mines so cold brag this is a I didint winterize the board :banghead: for sub temps. It was supposed to hit 18 degrees and stay there or abouts.

Heres a shot this morning. Its 1 degree accross the board warmer than a little while ago. It was 12/13/14 this shot it 13/14/15 degrees.

Heck at this rate i might get a quad and OC it. :D
 

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Cool well then.. sounds all about right :) take a pic of the inner case? So we can better see what you mean.. and try uploading the pics onto Overclock 3d then using the little landscape looking button to put the pictures so we can see them easier.
 
my m'board was misreporting the temps. I was getting 15 degrees too low, the board was an asus p5k deluxe. I got it fixed by disabling some of the advanced cpu functions in bios, for overclocking and I have the same cpu as you. Oh and still some programs do not read it corretly, asus probe speedfan and everest all seem to work.
 
name='Pat123' said:
Cool well then.. sounds all about right :) take a pic of the inner case? So we can better see what you mean.. and try uploading the pics onto Overclock 3d then using the little landscape looking button to put the pictures so we can see them easier.

Put the battery on the charger for the camera. Just a quick layout it has 3 fans on front.

fan 1= (80mm 2600 rpm) below HD's shooting straight into an unobstructed case towards board

fan 2= (80mm 2600 rpm) in front of HD's shooting over around and past tehm to an open case

fan 3= (80mm 2600rpm) on front above DVDrw blowing out, approx same height as PSU fan

Fan on side = (80mm 2600 rpm) blowing right against mem moduled and lower pwrt of cpu, covers vid card as well.

Fans on rear = PSU and right below it is coolit on "High", there is literally no stagnant sitting area in case. I put fan 3 by psu. below coolit exhaust and lower front aiming in and out and nothing; actually raised the temp. I put it in fron highest possible and above the most stagnant air (above mounts no circulation) in the case and set it there. 30 seconds later the case was 3 degrees cooler and on its way down. Probably not the most ideal spot for a fan in front high and aiming out but like i said I designed it to be in a 100 degree shop in summer.
 
How do I winterize a board its got condensation on the block above cpu. It looks like it frosted.

Kinda quick here, I need to turn the comp off and wipe it down and winterize it.
 
get.php
Heres 1 with some whitish frost looking and another with condensation.

get.php
 
:D
name='Kempez' said:
Ye ya need to go through some proper insulation like when you have phase

D@mn thing was COLD. I wiped it down and turned it to low setting. i think from what i can gather the more voltage a pelt gets the cooler it gets. I can only think that maybe this isnt meeting the recomended v requirements and is dipping into a little more power and cooling past its reg. point.

How/where can I find a manual or ? on insulating/winterizing the board (sorry I like my word better "winterizing" sounds cooler. get it ha ha:D ).

Whats phase?

I knew it was reading cold, I didnt think to look at the water block. Glad I did, could have made for a costly oversight.

I called coolit to ask them, their site says no insulating needed its a regulated system. had to leave a message. Not that i mind, if it gets this cold He!! Im getting a quad and OC'n the little guy. :D

opened the case and turned it to low for safety till I WIIIIIINETRIIIIIIIIIIZE it.
 
As far as i can see that unit uses a TEC just too cool the water?

In that case there will be hot air coming out of the thing somwhere.

And with ANY sub-ambient cooling you need insulation.
 
Hi,

Phase Change cooling is basically using a refrigeration unit to give sub zero degrees cooling to the CPU.

Here are the lengths they go to in "winterizing" the system.
 
name='Ham' said:
And with ANY sub-ambient cooling you need insulation.

Not quite, as long as it stays above dew point you should be ok.

Good to see the coolit is working so well even if it is keeping the water a little cooler than it should be, im currently planning to make my own beefed up version to allow cooling two graphics cards and a cpu all overclocked to just below ambient with very little power usage (theres a long way to go but the maths seems ok).
 
The back of the board is already sealed (no protruding metal or exposed mets behind the cpu (775 intel 6850), the fron I placed neoprene in the center of the socket to cover the electronics and used die electric greese on the pins and the cpu then put die electric on teh metal cpu tray (easier than silicone and cleans up better) and placed the cradle down securing the cpu. I went around the socket with silicone and then neoprene on top of that to avoid and run down. I sprayed the water block (protected cooling surface) with a laquer to keep bare metal from beng exposed to humidity and avoid condensation. Hopefully the laquer works if not Ill cut a neoprene peice to fit it. I also turned it to medium now my temps are 19c vs 12/13. Im going to kick it to high and see if I get condensation.

Thanks so far to everyone that helped............
 
name='Scarlet Infidel' said:
Not quite, as long as it stays above dew point you should be ok..

Sub-ambeint means below dew point.

It a surface is colder than its environment water will condense on its surface. It may be an almost untraceable amount, but it will be there. And you don't want any at all on electronics.
 
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