Cryobeast

Crion

New member
This is my latest rig. Specs are

Case: Corsair Obsidian 800D
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770k (Apogee HD)
Mboard: MSI Z77A-GD65
RAM: 16 GB DDR3 1600 Corsair Vengeance
Boot Drive: 256 GB Crucial M4 SSD
Storage: 1 TB Seagate Barracuda
Video: EVGA GeForce GTX 580 3 GB FTW Hydro Copper 2
Sound: Creative X-Fi Titanium HD
PSU: Corsair AX850
Rads: Black Ice SR-1 360 and Black Ice GTX 240
Pump: MCP655 Vario
Fans:
Silverstone AP-121 x 3
Silverstone AP-141 x 2
Gelid Wing 12 x 2
Gelid Wing 14 x1
 

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Could do with a re-jig when you get the time. spin in the rad around get all the 45/90s that you need and try to remove all the bends, keep all the tubes as short as you can.

Don't worry about loop order either. It looks as though that's why you put the rad in-between the cpu and gpu for that reason. The water barely changes temp per cycle never mind per component.
 
Could do with a re-jig when you get the time. spin in the rad around get all the 45/90s that you need and try to remove all the bends, keep all the tubes as short as you can.

Don't worry about loop order either. It looks as though that's why you put the rad in-between the cpu and gpu for that reason. The water barely changes temp per cycle never mind per component.
Actually didn't put the rads that way because of temps. Did it because it was the shortest path I could think of. If you've got suggestions, I'm open to changes.

@Tom: Why do you think the 800d is not good for watercooling? I know that there's definitely better out there but the 800d doesn't strike me as horrible for loops.
 
I covered it in my review mate. Ive hated this case since release, Ive yet to see someone put something in one and it change my mind tbh.
 
Here's a shot inside. Tubing going to the bottom is longer because I needed some wiggle room to be able to move the bay res out to get to the fill port. Same with tube coming from bay res to CPU.
 

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CPU: Intel Core i7 3770k
Mboard: MSI Z77A-GD65
RAM: 16 GB DDR3 1600 Corsair Vengeance
Video: EVGA GeForce GTX 580 3 GB FTW Hydro Copper 2
Rads: Black Ice SR-1 360 and Black Ice GTX 240

nice build parts.. i had swapped all my GTX rads to alphacool UT60 because
of letting the fans do a better job on lower speeds (quiet). are you using a
flash? its diluting your pix pretty good.. natual lighting helps greatly for
detail. and some interior pix too..

airdeano
I don't know why tom said that tbh, very uncalled for.

ive still got my 800D and it sits in a plastic sack on a shelf.. Toms dead on..
it is a big case, can hold radiators and hardware, but functional and looks it
hard to make it work "right". since it came out ive jammed and jacked with it
on air-cooling and water-cooling and it is meah.. having to span the case
height in tubing (hidden or otherwise) to route rads in the roof and the
basement just makes it tough to make the look pop.

Is it just me or is that more tubing then people usually use?

thats what i mean.. more tubing takes the eye from the focal center of the
build. having to peer through footage of tubing to see the expensive parts.
and in the color tuning it really blocks alot out making it look more laboratory
than artistic..

id give 'em props on the attempt...

airdeano
 
Looks like a good build apart from the optical drive (grrr...). Why do all the pictures have that irritating sparkly stuff on them?
 
I believe that sparkly effect isn't from a flash but its from Photo filters applied directly onto the Image. I do agree that you should get rid of the filters, it softens the image too much and diminishes detail, these filters are used mostly in conjunction with glamour portraiture to quickly disguise blemishes without getting in depth with ps.
 
I believe that sparkly effect isn't from a flash but its from Photo filters applied directly onto the Image. I do agree that you should get rid of the filters, it softens the image too much and diminishes detail, these filters are used mostly in conjunction with glamour portraiture to quickly disguise blemishes without getting in depth with ps.
Nope. It's from a camera flash. Couldn't get away from using it as I don't have studio lights and the lighting where my computer is good for everyday use but not for taking pictures.
 
Put a completely white, full screen image on your monitor, angle the monitor so the white light is facing the build, then take pictures.
 
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