Computer tunred off and now wont turn back on

V

vish93

New member
basicalyy i overclocked my friend's pc. specs:
i7 2600k
asus p8p67 pro
zotac gtx 570
corsair tx 750
and samsung spinpoint f3 (i think)

I overclocked on friday: pushed the cpu all the way to 4.5ghz with 1.35volts on core, cpu_pll: 1.9 vccsa: 1.1v and vccio: 1.106 volts. also i turned turnbo and intel speed step off. also changed the mosfet setting to provide constant current (over maintaining constant temperature) and change (something like) current provide to 150%. RAM was left stock @ 1600 and gfx was overclocked to 825mhz on core and 2100mhz on memory with 1v. cpu maxed out on 72 and gfx maxed out on abt 80

even after testing with occt for 2 hours on friday his computer bsod on saturday and i advised him to drop the multiplier to 44.

now on sunday at abt noon he was browsing the web when suddenly computer turned, and when he press on button all he get is about 1/4 of a fan rotation and it turns off again. things we have tried:
1) clear cmos
2) unplug everything (except fans) and did the paperclip test and fans run
3) there is a green led on motherboard that is lit (so i am not sure if mother board is dead)
4) he try and get voltages provided by 24 pin but he got nothing on the multimeter.

so my question is do you know what is going on and did i fry his motherboard?
 
when clear cmos doesn't work something went terribly wrong.
try a different PSU, this sounds like the PSU is dead.
 
SeekaX said:
when clear cmos doesn't work something went terribly wrong.
try a different PSU, this sounds like the PSU is dead.
Click to expand...

He's already done the paperclip test and it worked and ran the fans. Not that it's a flawless technique but it sounds like something connected to it is causing a short and hence it not starting.

I've seen this before myself and it was caused by a dead motherboard. Mind you, it could even be something else but the usual suspect for me when you have overclocked is the board failing.

Edit. I'm not quite sure if there will be any power going to the ATX 24 pin unless there is something drawing on it? It could be the PSU then.
 
thats the thing i think it could be the psu but it is a tx 750 on a fairly light load, and for the motherboard why it didn't die on friday when we were actually stressing it?
edit: also do any of the above mentioned settings seem out of order?
 
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my educated guess would be its your mem or vid card. The fact that it is powering up at least. a dead mobo or cpu wouldnt even turn on. try swapping out your card n reseat the ram as well
 
AlienALX said:
He's already done the paperclip test and it worked and ran the fans. Not that it's a flawless technique but it sounds like something connected to it is causing a short and hence it not starting.

I've seen this before myself and it was caused by a dead motherboard. Mind you, it could even be something else but the usual suspect for me when you have overclocked is the board failing.

Edit. I'm not quite sure if there will be any power going to the ATX 24 pin unless there is something drawing on it? It could be the PSU then.
Click to expand...

tbh i just wanted to rule out the PSU because you rather have your PSU dead than the mobo. also didn't read the post properly :( i'm lazy.
but yea, fried mainboard is the most uncomfortable reason for the failure, but probably the right reason.
 
kully1972 said:
my educated guess would be its your mem or vid card. The fact that it is powering up at least. a dead mobo or cpu wouldnt even turn on. try swapping out your card n reseat the ram as well
Click to expand...

If it were the memory or the video card and not the board then it would start and beep a series of beeps.

Basically the power switch is wired to the board so if the board was OK then it would start even if something was dead and just beep.

I've seen what he is describing and you press the power button and it's literally on for a split second before shutting itself down.

As for why it would go after X amount of time? when you run OCCT and Prime etc you are putting serious stress loads onto the power delivery system. So if for example your CPU hits 140w under full stress load and you leave it like that you are asking quite a lot of the power delivery circuitry. The longer you run it the hotter it gets..

I had an Asrock board once that had plastic caps. I read online that it supported the Phenom X4 9950 (the highest one they did on Phenom 1) but I forgot that in an email I was advised not to overclock it AT ALL by the girl at Asrock.

For some stupid reason I forgot that advice and overclocked it quite hard. It was running fine so I ran Prime where it was stable for about 30 minutes. I started to smell burning so I cancelled the Prime run and put my head in the rig. It stunk of melted glue and when I put my thumb down on the caps I got a burn that took my skin off and left it on the top of the caps. They had also bulged pretty badly..

When I first rebooted I got the issue described by the OP but when I let it cool down for an hour and rebooted it worked but was terribly unstable and the caps were hissing like no one's business.

I suspect you have damaged the board's power delivery and a cap or coil has failed.

I could be wrong of course, but my main suspect after the board would be the PSU.
 
kully1972 said:
my educated guess would be its your mem or vid card. The fact that it is powering up at least. a dead mobo or cpu wouldnt even turn on. try swapping out your card n reseat the ram as well
Click to expand...

it doesnt turn on. same symptoms as overvoltage, just that clear CMOS doesn't fix it. deffo not the gpu.
 
okay so you guys think its either motherboard or a psu. but if motherboard is gone why will it light green when power is connected (without turning it on) and my next question will be could it be the processor as well?
 
vish93 said:
okay so you guys think its either motherboard or a psu. but if motherboard is gone why will it light green when power is connected (without turning it on) and my next question will be could it be the processor as well?
Click to expand...

I've only ever killed one CPU and that was MANY years ago. I didn't actually kill the cores I killed the cache.

IIRC Tom killed a 980x but again he killed the memory controller. Dead CPU is incredibly uncommon tbh.

A motherboard has sensors all over it so just because there is a green LED that is on doesn't mean the rest of it works OK. The green LED could literally just be a sense LED that comes on when the board is receiving power.

I suspect the damage is to the caps and coils around the VRM circuitry at the top of the board. Thus your sense LED lights but the board won't power up.

I could be wrong but as I've said my first suspect would be the board.
 
yeah i have seen that dice video, it was fun.

okay so motherboard is gone. damn! he is not asking for anything but i think i should pay him atleast half the money for the new board.

last thing how did you guys get those things uder your post that tell people about your rig?
 
how long is the warranty on asus board? he built this computer back in feb 2011

Edit: Will asus cover these sort of things in a warranty?
 
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These are identical symptoms to dead power supply. That's probably the best case scenario so not all hope is lost :)

I had exact same thing happen a couple years ago. Thought i killed computer. Put in a new power supply and everything magically worked fine.
 
Not to confuse things... with some power supplys when you do the paperclip trick they won't latch on unless there is sufficient load demanded from it. This can as much as a couple of fans or a cdrom drive.

Also, the fan on top of the psu isn't a good indicator that it's running - some modern psu's won't run the fan unless it's warm/hot enough to need it.
 
vish93 said:
if motherboard is dead will asus warranty cover it?
Click to expand...

Yes of course they will. Their boards are designed for overclocking and there's no way to just kill one. Not unless the board is physically damaged of course or some tracks have been damaged.

I would try and fit another PSU first. At least that way you can be reasonably sure it's definitely the board.

You will need to go back to the retailer that sold the board too as Asus don't RMA directly with their customers. So you'll need the receipt.
 
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