Build in progress, urgent help needed.

crystalfat

New member
hi there guys, wonder if you can help me.

mach 2, fx-60, fx64 easymodkit a8n32-sli deluxe

I dont know where to use the neoprene on the front because it cant go under the seal string can it?, i assume i need the seal string straign from mounting bracket to mobo, so how can i use the neoprene without interfereing with this.

The metal back plate?, isnt metal a bit risky that close to the mobo, even if it is only seperated by seal string.

The dialectric grease i was sent is called "silicone dialectric compound" the consistency is a bit harsh, is this the same stuff that i can rub into the cpu pin holes?.

In case of a prob i dont really care about the modo, its the cpu i dont want going wrong, so how do i clean this dialectric compund off incase of chip RMA.

wonderful if you could help me mateys

msn is bovox@hotmail.com if preferable

all the best

chris
 
Okay with neoprene and seal string - u cant really use both for the reasons you have mentioned. I used an oversized (as in bigger than) piece of neoprene for the back plate the thickness I used is 3mm - seals it all really well, can be re-used and means u dont need dilectric on the back of the board.

The backplate itself I cover with electrical tape(on the outside) and the heater element fits on the inside - it's just a pre-caution to insulate it that way but I think better to be safe......

As for the front - I stick neoprene strips onto the inside of the metal part (thin enough so it does not lay over the CPU edges but sits around them) probs two layers of 3mm thikness again (the stuff I use is called armourflex tape with already has adhesive on).

Finally I use insulation tape again to tape over the gap between the plastic and metalon the front of the kit before finally fitting the head.

Hope this helps.

Mav
 
Hey! I have no idea what an Easymod kit is, but I`d either choose seal String OR neoprene. The standard kits use seal string, but a few of us use neoprene seals coz they`re easier to work with.

If ya wanna just use neoprene, make sure the cutout doesnt leave gaps anywhere around the plastic mount plate, and make the rear plate and front panel are screwed together rpoperly- shouldnt leave any gaps, so condensation shouldnt be an issue.

I used some electrical tape around the edges of the rear plate to make sure theres no chance of contact.

Any dielectric grease in theory should be fine for use- to make it easier, I try to just smear it around the socket, and around the lip/join between the CPU and socket- leaving no space for air to get it :)

Dielectric grease cleaning: toilet paper and PCBcleaner works for me :)

Any more help ya need, just shout :D

K
 
smashin

Thanks guys, so you think the "silicone dielectric compound" is the same as "dielectric grease"? (just that i thought compounds hardened).

Thanks for pics mav, so i guess its ok if the neoprene sits on the chip then (the chip areas that are under the petal plate.

once again ta!
 
Guess the fail-safe way to be sure is to apply a bit to something unimportant and leave it an hour or 2. Better than sealing your CPU into the socket :O
 
No the neoprene sits snuggly around the chip not on the top - if any of the rubber sits on teh top it will effect your conect (and cooling) of the head on the CPU itself.

If any is sat on the top of the CPU use a small flathead screwdriver to 'tuck' it round the edge of the CPU.

Neoprene on the backplate as a gasket - the neoprene rectangle should be bigger than the backplate and u need to make holes for the screwwss to fit through :)

Make sure you have the right stuff - either post apic here of it or as K404 days - dispense some on some paper - if it starts to set (goes hard) then u got the wrong stuff. I use Dow Corning DC4, it's described as a compound but is in fact a grease.

Mav
 
here we go then

Thanks guys im gonna go for it now, let you know what happens. not feeling well but gotta get this done, be back soon hopefully :)
 
wait a sec

Mav the chip is actually much larger than the hole on the metal plate. Your neoprene is cut to the size of the hole in the plate. therefore when you place the metal plate on top of the chip does the neopropene not sit on the chip edges underneath?
 
If that is the case cut the neoprene to suit. I assume Mav's CPU socket was in a slightly different location between the mounts compared to yours.

Just cut it so it fits snug around the socket. I did this for a peltier setup, with dielectric grease, and it worked quite well :)
 
Yeah I did it like that then tucked it all in so the fit is nice and tight around the edges, but I also used it on a IHS-Less CPU ;)

But would have been easier to use a thinner strips - but I never find out what the easy way is til I did things the hard way :(
 
up and running

ok guys it's up and running.

There is some fruity temp reports going on here though.

My mach 2 is telling me its -54 (or thereabouts), as does the prometeia control centre. my bios says -15 and my asus probe says 10 deg c lol.

Also the prometia reads about -8 constant when switched off. i assume its really about +15 and the temps are way out, yet is still switches on at the set -33 which may be too early if the temps are actually out it means its starting up at about -10.

If i power down and then restart soon as the timer reaches 0, the comp starts immediatley with the prommy (rather than any delay from cold).

Anyway if you could give me your thoughts on this i'd appreciate it., took photos sorting them now.

ran 3d mark2006 as soon as drivers were on and scored 4505, dont know if this is any good haven't looked into it yet.

cheers me dears

chris.
 
ignore the -54, probably ignore the +10 as well. I`d take the BIOS as closest to accurate.

the unit should warm up slowly after ya turn it off. it`ll eventually get to ambient room temp, but can take a bit, depending on how long the mach was on for. If it really doesnt change, it might be mis-calibrated tho.

One thing to note: DO NOT move the evap arm much when the mach is on or when its warming up after a shutdown. The metal is slightly brittle, and moving it can cause mini cracks so I hear, and mini wont stay mini for long.

:)

K
 
20 hrs and all is well only.......

The mobo is running at a crazy 47 deg C. I dont really wanna enable the mobo "cool n' Quiet" as i believe it's processor based and i'm not sure if it's load based (which would be ok i suppose) or heat based (which would be bad with a prommy on.

Any tips for the mobo guys?, i currently have all cases sides off so it may drop a degree when they are on with the better air flow.

room temp is 22-24 deg

Thoughts?...

p.s gonna post my whole experience with pics later today, i'll mention all your great help guys.

cheers

chris
 
firmware

are you sure fatty?, my prommy was the first ST versions (the ones that were basically a mach 2 with different firmware), due to the fact this had the same board as the mach 2 i flashed the mach 2 firmware in and unlocked all the capabilities which had been dumbed down. You sure i should do this or just live with it??
 
Is it the mobo chipset at 47 or the CPU?

Many/most mobo temperature sensors can measure these temperatures- they`re not exactly standard, are they ;) Mobo makers dont use temp probes with the range coz they cost more, and normally dont see the full range.
 
Aha! Dont worry *too* much about it. If theres case airflow, it`ll be fine. Ya can try replacing the standard thermal pad or goo with AS5, should help a bit.
 
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